I stood on the terrace of Rifugio Lagazuoi at 2,752 meters, coffee in hand, watching the sunrise paint the Dolomites in shades of pink and gold. Below me, the tunnels of a World War I battlefield stretched into the mountain, a sobering reminder that this landscape of jagged peaks and alpine meadows was once a front line. The Alta Via 1, a 120-kilometer hut-to-hut trek through the eastern Dolomites, is widely considered one of the best long-distance hikes in Europe, and I was finally doing it.
The Alta Via 1 crosses terrain where Italian and Austro-Hungarian troops fought at altitudes above 2,500 meters, leaving behind tunnels, trenches, and fortifications that are still accessible today.
The Alta Via 1 is absolutely worth the effort if you want a moderate, non-technical trek that combines jaw-dropping alpine scenery with genuine historical depth. It’s not a wilderness expedition — it’s a hut-to-hut journey with real beds, hot meals, and a story around every corner.
History buffs
Solo hikers
Moderate-level trekkers
This guide covers the trail’s history, what to expect day-to-day, and how to plan your own Alta Via 1 trek. I walked it solo over ten days in late June, and I’ll share what surprised me, what I wish I’d known, and why the history here is as compelling as the views.
History & Landscape
How the Alta Via 1 Became a Trail of War and Peace
The Alta Via 1 wasn’t always a hiking trail — its path was shaped by war, geology, and a post-war vision for connecting the Dolomites.
The trail was created in the mid-1960s by linking existing paths maintained by the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI) and a network of mountain huts into a continuous north-south traverse from Lago di Braies to La Pissa near Belluno. Before that, these same routes were used by soldiers during World War I, when the Dolomites formed the front line between Italian and Austro-Hungarian forces. The central section around Monte Lagazuoi, Passo Falzarego, and Cinque Torri is where you’ll find the most visible remnants: tunnels carved into rock, trenches, and small chapels built by troops.
Since 2009, the surrounding peaks have been part of the UNESCO World Heritage Dolomites, recognized for their exceptional natural beauty and geological significance. The Ladin people, an ethnic group with their own Romance language distinct from Italian and German, have inhabited these valleys for centuries. You’ll see their influence in place names, food, and the occasional conversation with a local rifugio keeper.
The Trek
What a Day on the Alta Via 1 Actually Looks Like
Each day brings a new rifugio, a new pass, and a new set of challenges — here’s what you can expect from the rhythm of the trail.
The standard route takes about ten days, covering roughly 12 kilometers and 600-800 meters of elevation gain per day. Total ascent across the whole trek is around 6,800 meters, with long descents and sections of rocky path, scree, and loose ground. Some parts are cabled or protected, with short exposed passages — nothing technical, but you’ll want steady footing and a head for heights.
You start at Lago di Braies, one of the most photographed lakes in the Dolomites, and head south through the Fanes-Senes-Braies high plateau, a protected nature park. Early highlights include Rifugio Fanes and Rifugio Lavarella, both set in a lush prairie dotted with small Ladin farms. From there, you climb to Rifugio Lagazuoi, the highest point on the standard route, where you can explore the WWI tunnels. The trail then passes Cinque Torri, a group of detached rock towers with restored wartime trenches, before continuing through Passo Giau, Lago Coldai, and the massive north-west face of Monte Civetta.
Weather changes quickly at altitude. Average daytime temperature in summer is around 15°C, but it can drop to freezing at night, and snow may linger on high passes well into June. I got caught in an afternoon thunderstorm on day four, and within twenty minutes the temperature dropped by ten degrees. Pack layers and a reliable rain jacket.
Book your rifugi at least two to three weeks in advance for July and August. Many huts have online booking through the CAI website or direct via email. Don’t assume you’ll find a bed walking up — I saw turned-away hikers at Rifugio Tissi in late June.
Alta Via 1 vs. Alta Via 2: Which One Should You Choose?
If you’re considering the Dolomites for a multi-day trek, you’ve probably heard of both Alta Via 1 and Alta Via 2. Here’s how they compare.
| Feature | Alta Via 1 | Alta Via 2 |
|---|---|---|
| Distance | 120 km | ~160 km |
| Duration | 10 days | 13-15 days |
| Difficulty | Moderate | Moderate to strenuous |
| Total ascent | ~6,800 m | ~9,000 m |
| Highest point | 2,752 m (Lagazuoi) | ~3,000 m (multiple passes) |
| Technical sections | Short exposed passages, some cables | More via ferrata, longer exposed sections |
| Hut availability | Excellent, frequent rifugi | Good, but more remote sections |
| Historical interest | High (WWI tunnels, trenches) | Moderate (less war history) |
The Alta Via 1 is the better choice for first-time Dolomites trekkers or anyone who wants a balance of scenery, history, and manageable daily mileage. The Alta Via 2 is longer, harder, and more remote, with more via ferrata sections and fewer huts. If you’re experienced with exposed terrain and want a bigger challenge, go for AV2. If you want a classic hut-to-hut experience with World War I history woven in, stick with AV1.
- Book rifugi in advance for summer — especially Lagazuoi, Fanes, and Nuvolau.
- Pack for four seasons in one day: base layer, fleece, rain jacket, and a warm hat.
- Start early each day to avoid afternoon thunderstorms, which are common from June to August.
Before You Hike the Alta Via 1
Do I need to be a technical climber to do this trail?
No. The Alta Via 1 is rated moderate and non-technical. There are short exposed sections with cables, but you won’t need climbing gear or a guide if you have good balance and a head for heights.
When is the best time to hike the Alta Via 1?
Late June through early September is the standard season. July and August have the most reliable weather but also the busiest huts. Late June and early September offer quieter trails and cooler temperatures, but snow can linger on high passes.
Is the Alta Via 1 overrated or disappointing in any way?
It can feel crowded in peak season, especially around Lago di Braies and Rifugio Lagazuoi. Some hikers find the daily mileage modest compared to other alpine treks. If you want solitude or a wilderness experience, this isn’t it — it’s a social, hut-based trek with plenty of company.
What should I pack that I might not think of?
Earplugs for shared dormitories, a lightweight sleeping bag liner (huts provide blankets but not sheets), and a headlamp for early starts and late bathroom trips. A small power bank is useful — most huts have limited charging points.
Can I do the Alta Via 1 with kids?
It’s possible with older, experienced children, but the daily elevation gain and exposed sections make it tough for younger kids. Lily is seven and I wouldn’t bring her on this trail yet — the long descents and loose scree would be too much. The Trevi Fountain fee update is more her speed for now.
Why the Alta Via 1 Stays With You
I finished the Alta Via 1 at La Pissa on a gray afternoon, tired and sunburned, with boots that would never be the same. But what I carried home wasn’t just photos of jagged peaks and alpine lakes — it was the memory of standing inside a tunnel carved by soldiers a century ago, eating speck and cheese on a rifugio terrace, and realizing that the best hikes don’t just show you a landscape. They show you what happened there. If you’re planning your own trip, start with the regional food specialties guide to fuel up before you go.
Sources and further reading
Hikelist. “Alta Via 1.” 🔗
Pygmy Elephant. “Alta Via 1: Cultural Experiences on This Italian Trail.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Snakes in Italy: What You Need to Know — Practical info on what snakes you might encounter on Italian trails and how to handle an encounter.
Rome’s Best Gourmet Shops for Real Italian Flavors — Where to stock up on regional specialties before or after your trek.
48 Hours in Rome: From Spanish Steps to the Colosseum — A quick city itinerary if you’re tacking on a city stop to your Dolomites trip.