You can find surprising wine discoveries just outside Rome, especially in the hills south and east of the city. While Lazio might be a later bloomer in terms of wine trends, small wineries are really making waves with local grape varieties. These wines pair wonderfully with the robust flavours of Roman cuisine, think carbonara or hearty artichoke dishes.
Lazio Wine Region Overview
This region plants around 19,880 hectares of vines. A notable 11% of this land is managed organically. Annually, Lazio produces about 1.29 million hectolitres of wine, with white wines making up 75% of the total production. Many wines fall under the protected designation of origin (DOP) status, covering 55% of the output, while 26% are classified as PGI (IGP).
Exploring the Vineyards Near Rome
You can easily visit nearby vineyards and wineries from the capital. Some projects even bring vines right into the city, like the Vigna Barberini. This urban vineyard in the Colosseum archaeological park has replanted vines, specifically the Bellone white grape, which was enjoyed by Romans back in antiquity. It’s fascinating to see how this ancient variety fares in the unique terrain of the Palatine Hill.
Cori A Charming Village Destination
A must-visit is the town of Cori, located about an hour southeast of Rome. It’s a beautiful village built on terraces, with winding cobblestone lanes leading to charming piazzas and ancient structures like the Tempio di Ercole. The Cincinnato winery is based here, a cooperative that has modernized significantly. They focus on local grapes like Bellone for crisp white wines and Nero Buono di Cori for intense ruby reds. At the neighbouring Marco Carpineti winery, you can find unique amphora-aged wines from these same local grapes, and they’re even adding multi-sensory vineyard experiences.
This area is also close to the celebrated Gardens of Ninfa and the coast, making it a perfect base for exploring.
Castelli Romani Wine Country
The hills of Castelli Romani, between Cori and Rome, have long been a favorite escape for city dwellers. This picturesque area boasts Renaissance villas, beautiful lakes, and charming towns each with its own culinary specialties, like the famous porchetta from Ariccia. Romans have been coming here for centuries to stock up on local wine. The annual Sagra dell’Uva wine festival held in Marino each October celebrates this tradition.
White wines have traditionally dominated here, and the quality of local Malvasia-based blends has seen a significant jump. This is partly due to winemakers shifting from less flavourful Malvasia di Candia to the more aromatic and structured Malvasia del Lazio. Similarly, Trebbiano Toscano is being replaced by local Trebbiano Giallo and Ottonese for more acidity. The area’s volcanic soils contribute to a wonderful diversity of terroirs. You can find historical Frascati Superiore crus, such as Vigneto Filonardi at Villa Simone, and Vigneto La Torretta from Gabriele Magno, made with old vines and aged on lees.
Lorenzo Costantini, who consults for many producers and runs his own Villa Simone winery, helps interpret these diverse terroirs. His wines showcase an elegance that was once uncommon in the region. For families, the Villa Simone winery offers a beautiful setting, and it’s close to Monte Porzio Catone, which has an interesting wine museum. On a visit, you might find yourself tasting wines while discussing vineyard soils with Costantini himself.
Roman Reds and Local Heroes
For those who prefer red wines, Lazio has its own stars. The grape Cesanese is particularly important, forming the backbone of Lazio’s third DOCG, Cesanese del Piglio. This grape thrives in the clay and volcanic soils found east of Rome, around towns like Piglio, Affile, and Olevano Romano. Olevano Romano, a medieval village popular with artists, hosts an annual Cesanese festival in late August. Damiano Ciolli is a producer who has really refined his Cesanese wines, bringing out their purest qualities. You can even try these wines at wine bars in Rome that exclusively serve Lazio labels, like Trapizzino Trastevere.
In Frascati, you can find organic wineries like Merumalia and De Sanctis that use Ottonese for a fresh, citrusy profile in their white blends. Merumalia also offers accommodation for a more immersive experience. De Sanctis, a passion project born from winemaking studies, offers a range of wines, including a notable rosé and red, showcasing an interest in international varieties alongside local ones.
Further afield, near the ancient Appian Way, the Tenuta di Fiorano estate is known for its prestigious red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, a wine with a history dating back to the 1950s and input from Tancredi Biondi Santi.
Planning Your Visit
If you’re planning a trip, consider starting your day with some delicious pizza bianca from Forno Campo de’ Fiori before heading south to the Castelli Romani wine area, just about a half-hour drive away. A visit to Villa Simone winery is a great first stop to sample local wines with the guidance of Lorenzo Costantini.
For lunch, the hilltop town of Frascati is ideal. You can park near the grand Villa Aldobrandini and wander into the historic center to find places like Osteria dell’Olmo for a casual meal featuring local specialties. The friendly Gabriele Magno winery in Grottaferrata is another excellent choice, offering wine tastings in a lovely setting among the vines or at their villa surrounded by gardens.
In the evening, make your way to the charming village of Cori, about 45 minutes southeast. It’s a perfect place to stretch your legs and take in the views from the ancient Tempio di Ercole site. Staying at the Cincinnato Wine Resort offers a delightful experience, with a restaurant serving local ingredients and the winery’s own wines, all while you relax in rooms featuring wine barrel headboards.
Rome Address Book for Wine Lovers
Accommodation
Hotel de’ Ricci: This wine-themed hotel near Campo de’ Fiori is convenient for exploring Rome’s main sights and offers a personalized wine selection in each room.
Cincinnato Wine Resort, Cori: A peaceful retreat run by the Cincinnato winery, offering stylish rooms with views and a restaurant serving local dishes (weekends only).
Restaurants & Bars
Ai Tre Scalini, Monti: An informal wine bar established in 1895, serving daily wines by the glass with simple Roman dishes.
Armando al Pantheon: A traditional trattoria with an all-Italian wine list, perfect for trying classic Roman fare.
Forno Campo de’ Fiori: Famous for its crispy pizza bianca and other baked goods, a great spot for a quick snack.
Matricianella, Spanish Steps: A cozy restaurant offering authentic Roman dishes and an extensive, well-priced wine list with quality glassware.
Rimessa Roscioli: A fantastic spot for wine lovers, offering tasting experiences, classes, and a connection to a popular deli and bakery nearby.
Trapizzino Trastevere: This bar exclusively serves Lazio wines, with a strong focus on Cesanese reds, and offers hearty bites like pizza slabs with meatballs.
Osteria dell’Olmo, Frascati: Remigio serves his own wine and prepares local specialties such as porchetta and cheeses in a charming setting.
Taverna Mari, Grottaferrata: This welcoming restaurant offers traditional dishes like bucatini all’amatriciana and a good selection of local wines.
Getting There
Fiumicino airport is southwest of Rome, with direct trains to Termini station. Ciampino airport is southeast of the city. Frascati town is about 20km southeast of Rome, and Cori is about 30km further in the same direction.
What should we pack for a wine-tasting trip
Comfortable shoes are essential for walking through vineyards and exploring charming villages like Cori and Frascati. A light jacket is advisable for evenings, even in warmer months, as temperatures can drop in the hills.
Don’t forget your camera; the scenery around Castelli Romani and the villages like Cori is incredibly scenic. And of course, an appetite for delicious food and great wine!
Is it worth visiting the vineyards in Lazio
Absolutely. The region offers a unique chance to explore less-trodden wine paths, focusing on indigenous grapes and a burgeoning scene of small, quality-focused wineries. The synergy between the wine, the food, and the stunning historical landscapes makes for a truly memorable trip.
Exploring the wine regions around Rome offers a wonderfully rich experience, blending history, culture, and delicious local flavors. It’s a part of Italy that rewards curiosity and provides a genuine taste of the land.