Lake Varese: See a Neolithic Village

Lake Varese offers a refreshing escape from city life, blending natural beauty with historical and artistic discoveries. The entire circumference of the lake is a dream for cyclists, with an almost entirely flat bike path winding around its shores. Beyond the cycling route, you can explore varied landscapes and ancient traditions, including the Chestnut and beech forests of the Campo dei Fiori Regional Park, perfect for trekking. The lake is also known for its Art Nouveau villas, churches, and monuments, and even the remains of a Neolithic village on Virginia islet.

One of the most striking historical sites you’ll encounter is the Cloister of Voltorre, located just outside Gavirate. This 12th-century portico stands as a remarkable example of Lombard Romanesque architecture. While it now serves as a venue for exhibitions, its true value lies in its historical significance, which is well-documented within the cloister itself. The tiles and capitals of the colonnade offer a tangible connection to its past.

Near Cazzago Brabbia, you’ll find the intriguing icehouses, locally known as “giazzér.” Though they might initially resemble the trulli of the Itria Valley, these circular stone buildings from the 18th century served a unique purpose. They were used by Cazzago fishermen to store ice harvested directly from the lake during winter, preserving it for up to a year. These structures are a fascinating glimpse into historical food preservation techniques.

Venture into the Campo dei Fiori Regional Park to discover the Caldana Sculpture Trail. This popular route, connecting Cerro di Caldana to the WWI stronghold of Fort Orino, is especially enjoyable for families. Along the path, you’ll find whimsical wooden carvings created by Sergio Terni in dead chestnut trees. These artistic pieces depict forest guardians, animals, and mythical figures, adding a touch of magic to your hike.

Capolago, a hamlet within Varese, remains off the typical tourist radar and offers an authentic experience. Its ancient monastery church and the striking pier that extends far into the lake are notable attractions. The pier, accessible via a short detour from the bike path, provides stunning panoramic views of the water and surrounding landscape. The annual Festival of the Woods, organized by the local Alpini group, also draws visitors.

Artistic and Natural Wonders

Azzate, situated between the lake and the mountains, embodies tranquility. Here, you can visit the Shrine of Our Lady of the Lake, which houses a revered fresco of the Nativity. The local devotion is celebrated annually in October with the Feast of the Little Madonna of the Lake. The surrounding countryside still bears witness to the area’s agricultural traditions, with remnants of farmsteads, fields, and mills. Don’t miss the church of San Giorgio in the hamlet of Vegonno.

In Cocquio Trevisago, the Salvini Museum offers a unique cultural experience. Housed in a 17th-century mill that was the birthplace of expressionist painter Innocente Salvini, the museum features a notable gipsoteca dedicated to his sculptures. The venue itself is a piece of industrial archaeology, with its original mill wheels and gears still visible. The remains of a medieval tower also add to the site’s historical layers.

A short distance from Varese, in the Valcuvia valley, lies Villa Della Porta Bozzolo. This 16th-century country mansion was elegantly transformed into a summer residence in the 18th century. The villa beautifully captures the opulent lifestyle of its former owners. Its Italian garden is a highlight, but the interior is equally impressive, with Rococo-style lounges and salons adorned with illusionistic painted architecture.

For nature lovers, the Brabbia Swamp Nature Reserve is a must-visit. This extensive low piedmont peat bog, formed after the last ice age, is a vital nature oasis. It supports a rich biodiversity of plants and animals amidst reed areas and numerous water bodies. Equipped trails and guided tours allow for close observation of this unique ecosystem, transitioning from aquatic environments to wooded areas.

Prehistoric Echoes and Artistic Legacies

The Virginia islet, a short distance from the western shore of Lake Varese in Biandronno, holds significant archaeological importance. Since the 19th century, remains of a prehistoric settlement, particularly Neolithic pile-dwelling sites dating back to around 3,500 BC, have been unearthed here. This site is recognized as the oldest prehistoric pile-dwelling settlement in the Alps and is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. A small museum on the islet details the history and evolution of this ancient human habitation.

Finally, the Bodini Civic Museum in Gemonio is housed within an 18th-century rural farmhouse. It showcases the works of Floriano Bodini, alongside pieces by artists he admired and collected. The collection includes sculptures, paintings, and graphic works, featuring plaster casts, bronzes, and marbles by Bodini. The museum also boasts an impressive permanent collection of sculptures by renowned artists such as Medardo Rosso, Arturo Martini, and Lucio Fontana, as well as paintings by Alberto Sughi and Giuliano Vangi.

My visit to Lake Varese revealed a region rich in understated beauty and history. It’s a place where you can effortlessly combine outdoor activities with cultural exploration, all within a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. The variety of experiences, from ancient settlements to contemporary art, makes it a fulfilling destination.