The Amalfi Coast truly wakes up before the crowds, especially when you venture beyond the well-known postcards of Positano. We found our own version of magic by heading further down the coast, away from the linen shops and beach clubs. This meant embracing a more rugged, authentic side of Italy, where traditions hold strong and the natural beauty is the main event.
Finding Quiet Coves
Starting our exploration from Positano, we opted for an early morning boat ride. The wooden docks offered a different perspective, especially when you’re on the water before the town fully comes alive. Looking back at Positano from our rented boat, the famous cliffs seemed even more imposing. This rugged stretch is what writer Norman Douglas called “Siren Land,” and it truly felt that way, wild and mythical.
The real adventure, for us, began when we kept going past the popular spots. We were searching for that genuine feel, the kind you get from places that haven’t changed much over the years. This led us to a part of the coast where simple things, like family recipes passed down through generations and protected natural bays, are the heart of the experience.
Marina del Cantone Seaside Charm
Marina del Cantone, a small cove accessible by a winding road more than a direct tourist route, became our focus. It takes about 30 minutes to reach by car from Sorrento, or you can get there by boat from Positano. The journey itself acts as a filter, ensuring that only those truly committed to finding this place make it. It’s a world away from the day-trip bustle.
At the center of this peaceful cove is Lo Scoglio da Tommaso. This restaurant has been a fixture here since 1958, anchored to the shores by the De Simone family. What started as a humble fishing shack has evolved into a beloved landmark, yet it has managed to keep its original, unpretentious soul. The dining area, with its large terrace, still stands on poles driven into the beach, a testament to its simple origins.
We loved that whether you arrive by a sleek yacht tender or on foot from the bus stop, you’re offered the same table, the same menu, and the same relaxed service. It’s a level playing field of genuine hospitality.
The real magic behind Lo Scoglio lies in its kitchen and its connection to the land. Peppino De Simone, Antonietta’s eldest son, tends to three organic farm plots on the hillsides above the restaurant. These farms supply the fresh herbs and vegetables that inspire the daily menu. Here, the farmer’s harvest is as important as the fisherman’s catch, reflecting a 1950s approach to hospitality that feels remarkably timeless.
A Taste of Nerano Tradition
Our visit to Marina del Cantone was made even more special by the presence of Le Sirenuse Mare, a new establishment opening on April 23, 2026, in Nerano. Known for its understated elegance, the Sersale family brings their signature Positano sensibility to this quieter spot, offering polished yet unpretentious dining with views of Capri.
For us, the culinary highlight was undoubtedly the Spaghetti con le zucchine alla Nerano. This dish, invented somewhere along this coast in the 1950s, is a local legend. Lo Scoglio’s version, now prepared by the third generation of De Simones, has set the standard. Tommaso De Simone approaches the recipe with incredible care, using specific pasta from Abruzzo and thinly sliced zucchini, fried to a perfect golden brown in pure olive oil.
The secret to the dish is the emulsion created when the zucchini meld with the pasta and a local, unnamed cheese. It’s a taste that encapsulates the region. We remembered Stanley Tucci filming an episode of “Searching for Italy” here, watching Tommaso create this very dish. It was fascinating to see how crowds have grown, but the kitchen’s methods remain true to the family’s simple desire to share the local produce and seafood.
It’s important to note the distinction between the Spaghetti alla Nerano here and the “spaghetti di Jacky O” served further up the coast. While both feature zucchini and pasta, the recipes are quite different. Lo Scoglio’s is rich and emulsified, while the other is lighter with diced zucchini and basil. Both are celebrated, but they offer distinct experiences.
Beyond the famous pasta, the menu at Lo Scoglio changes with the seasons and the sea’s bounty. We found the ricci (sea urchins) particularly noteworthy, described by locals as “distilled sea air.” It’s a poetic, yet accurate, description of their intense flavor.
What is the best time to visit Marina del Cantone
The best time to experience the quiet charm of Marina del Cantone is either very early in the morning to enjoy the docks before the day-trippers arrive, or in the evening after they have departed. Staying overnight allows you to truly appreciate the tranquility of the cove. The spring and early autumn months are ideal for hiking the nearby trails, offering pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds. Summer brings warmth but also more visitors, so planning ahead is key.
Arriving before 10:00 AM is highly recommended if you are driving, especially during peak season, to secure limited parking. For boat access, coordinating with water taxi services from Positano is essential, with schedules varying by season. Visiting during the shoulder seasons when the weather is mild and the landscape is lush can offer a more serene experience.
Exploring the Baia di Ieranto
To experience a truly secluded part of the Amalfi Coast, we decided to leave the table and hit the land. The hike to Baia di Ieranto, a protected bay, starts in the village of Nerano. You’ll need to look for the sign marked “VIA IERANTO” on the road leading towards Marina del Cantone.
This trail is about 6 kilometers long with an elevation gain of around 250 meters. The descent took us about 40 minutes, but the climb back up required a full hour – and proper footwear is a must. It’s rated as medium difficulty, which on the Amalfi Coast means wearing sturdy shoes, bringing plenty of water, and not attempting it in flip-flops, no matter what others seem to be doing.
The initial part of the path is paved and gently slopes through Mediterranean shrubland, with olive groves on terraced slopes. It’s here that you can find the house where Norman Douglas lived while writing his famous book “Siren Land.” Further along, we started getting glimpses of Marina del Cantone and the Li Galli islands. The real reward, however, comes during the descent.
The trail eventually transforms into what locals call the “stony staircase of the miners.” This is a reminder of the area’s past, as you pass an abandoned limestone quarry. It leads to Capitiello beach at the base, a narrow inlet with incredibly clear water. The quiet here is profound, broken only by the sound of the waves. There are no facilities, no sunbeds, just the natural beauty of rock, water, and whatever you’ve brought with you.
This bay is managed by the FAI, the Italian National Trust, and is part of the Punta Campanella Marine Protected Area. Motorboats are not allowed, preserving the peace. Guided visits are available at specific times during the summer and weekends in spring and autumn.
Tips for the Ieranto Bay Hike
When planning your hike to Ieranto Bay, always bring plenty of water and wear comfortable, supportive shoes. Sun protection is essential, especially during warmer months. The trail can be steep and rocky in parts, so good grip is important.
Pack a swimsuit and a towel if you plan to swim in the bay’s waters. Since there are no vendors at the bay, ensure you have snacks if needed. The FAI manages the area, so it’s important to respect the natural environment and carry out everything you bring in. The presence of abandoned quarry buildings adds a unique historical layer to the natural beauty.
Where to Stay and Dine
Marina del Cantone itself is small, and its charm lies in that intimacy. There are a few excellent options for accommodation, depending on your budget and how close you want to be to the water’s edge.
Lo Scoglio da Tommaso also operates as a 14-room hotel. The rooms are simply decorated in a Mediterranean style, most with private terraces offering views over the bay. Breakfast is included and features homemade cakes and croissants. Parking is also available nearby. It’s a 3-star property, so don’t expect luxury amenities, but the location, directly on the beach and above the restaurant, is unbeatable. This is the place to stay if you want to be steps away from that famous zucchini pasta.
Taverna del Capitano, just fifty meters away on the same piazza, holds a Michelin star. Chef Alfonso Caputo offers a more refined dining experience with fresh local fish prepared with Mediterranean finesse, served on a rooftop terrace overlooking the bay. Their ground-floor offering, Casa Caputo, provides simpler, more casual food at lower prices. If Lo Scoglio is the family kitchen, Taverna del Capitano is the more elegant dining room.
Hotel La Certosa is another option. Located a short walk from the beach, it offers a quieter atmosphere. It’s a solid mid-range choice, especially if the other two are fully booked, which they often are during the summer months. All three options provide access to a private beach, adding to the exclusive feel of the cove.
Is Marina del Cantone worth visiting
If your idea of the Amalfi Coast involves bustling nightlife and designer boutiques, Marina del Cantone might feel quite different. There are no glitzy shops or energetic clubs here. The beach is pebbly, and the hike to Ieranto Bay is a proper effort. You need to be prepared to carry everything you need for a day at the bay.
However, if you’ve experienced the more famous parts of the coast and felt like you were missing something deeper, this is likely it. This is the place where a family has been perfecting a pasta dish for decades, where a bay is protected because buildings were never erected on it, and where a miner’s staircase leads to astonishingly clear water. It’s the quiet realization, sitting on Lo Scoglio’s terrace as the sun sets, that the most memorable experiences are often the ones that remain unchanged by trends.
For those travelling with family, our children loved watching the fishing boats come in at Marina del Cantone. Lily was fascinated by the crystal-clear water at Ieranto Bay, and Ethan chased seagulls on the pebble beach. Michael mentioned how peaceful it felt compared to our last visit to the busier parts of the coast. It was a good reminder that sometimes the simplest moments, like sharing a delicious meal and enjoying the natural beauty, are the most rewarding.
Getting to Marina del Cantone
You can reach Marina del Cantone by boat from Positano. Water taxis operate from the Lucibello Pier, though prices can start from €200, and schedules vary by season. Guests of Le Sirenuse hotel might have access to complimentary excursions. The hotel we stayed at mentioned organized transfers were available, confirming the need to book in advance.
By car, the route from Naples involves taking the A3 motorway, exiting at Castellammare di Stabia, and following signs for Sorrento. Continue towards Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi before descending to Nerano and Marina del Cantone. The drive from Naples takes about 90 minutes, and from Sorrento, around 30 minutes. Parking is extremely limited and fills up very early in the summer, so an early start is essential for drivers.
By public transport, SITA buses run from Sorrento to Marina del Cantone, usually with a change at Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi. This route takes approximately one hour. Even though the bus service is infrequent, it is a functional way to reach the area if you prefer not to drive.
When should you visit Nerano
The best time to visit Nerano for a tranquil experience is during the spring or autumn months. During these periods, the weather is pleasant for hiking and exploring, and the crowds are significantly smaller than in the peak summer season. For dining at popular spots like Lo Scoglio or Taverna del Capitano, booking well in advance is crucial, especially for summer visits.
If you are planning to visit Ieranto Bay, aim for spring or early autumn to manage the heat effectively and enjoy a less crowded trail. The vibrant colors of the nature reserve are particularly beautiful during these times. Remember to check the FAI’s schedule for guided visits if you are interested in learning more about the bay’s history and conservation efforts.
Our visit in late spring was perfect, with blooming wildflowers along the hiking trails and comfortable temperatures for enjoying the beaches. I’d recommend checking the opening seasons for restaurants and hotels, as some may have specific operating periods.
It’s a corner of Italy that reminds you how much beauty exists when things are kept simple and deeply connected to the land and sea. I hope you get to experience its quiet magic too.