While Pompeii often steals the spotlight, I found that venturing to its lesser-known neighbors, particularly during a trip near Naples, offered a more peaceful and equally fascinating glimpse into Roman life. If you’re looking to experience the ancient world without the crowds, seeking out these “Vesuvian sites” is an excellent idea.
Herculaneum A Closer Look
Herculaneum, often called Pompeii’s “little sister,” is just a short distance north of Naples. It’s remarkably preserved, perhaps even more so in some ways than Pompeii, due to the different type of volcanic material that buried it. Instead of ash, yards of rock-hard volcanic debris covered the town, which makes excavation challenging but also exceptional in what it preserved.
Walking through Herculaneum, it struck me how much more of the organic material survived here compared to Pompeii. Most of the wood in Pompeii is long gone, leaving structures looking quite bare. Herculaneum, however, offered this amazing insight into how homes might have actually looked, filled with their original wooden features.
Wooden Wonders Uncovered
One of the most striking things I saw was the House of the Wooden Screen. In its main hall, you can still see the original wooden screen that once provided privacy for a room off the atrium. It’s just incredible to imagine that a piece of furniture, so delicate, could survive for nearly two thousand years.
There are also remnants of wooden stairways and balconies, giving you a sense of the multi-level homes that once existed. What really charmed me, though, were the smaller details—traces of wooden furniture like cupboards and couches, and even a baby’s cradle. It made the ancient lives feel so much more relatable.
Papyrus Scrolls and Ancient Libraries
Just outside the main Herculaneum site, I learned about the Villa of the Papyri. It’s a large, opulent residence that was largely excavated by tunnels in the 18th century. Those early explorers managed to bring back over 80 bronze sculptures, now housed in the Naples Archaeological Museum, as well as a significant collection of papyrus scrolls.
In recent years, scientists have made incredible progress in unrolling and deciphering some of these scrolls. While many might hope for lost literary masterpieces, most of the texts so far have turned out to be works by a Greek philosopher named Philodemus. It’s still a remarkable find, offering a direct look into the intellectual pursuits of the time.
Oplontis A Grand Estate
While Herculaneum and Pompeii offer insights into town life, the Roman elite also built lavish country residences around the Bay of Naples. Oplontis, near Pompeii, is one of the most spectacular examples. It’s a villa that’s the size of a palace, and it’s believed to have connections to Emperor Nero’s wife, Poppaea.
The paintings on the walls at Oplontis are simply astounding, using a 3D trompe l’oeil technique that makes them look incredibly realistic. Honestly, they make much of what you see in Pompeii and Herculaneum look a bit plain in comparison. And the crowning glory? An Olympic-sized swimming pool in the back garden—imagine that!
Exploring Oplontis Leisurely
Even during peak tourist season, Oplontis doesn’t seem to attract many visitors, which is a shame because it’s so magnificent. It’s easy to feel like you have this grand estate almost to yourself. I particularly enjoyed wandering through the grounds and imagining the parties and life that once took place here.
When you visit Oplontis, make sure you take time to appreciate the illusionistic internal garden. It’s a series of small courtyards with walls painted to look like lush gardens, creating a serene and beautiful atmosphere.
Behind the Scenes at Oplontis
It’s also worth looking for the slave areas at Oplontis. These service corridors and living quarters are often marked by distinctive black and white diagonal stripes, known as “zebra stripe” decoration. It’s a stark contrast to the elaborate paintings in the public areas and provides a vivid reminder of the social structure in Roman times.
Stabiae Coastal Residences
A few miles further down the coast from Oplontis are the Roman residences at Stabiae. In ancient times, these villas would have offered incredible sea views, though the coastline has shifted over the centuries. These sites are even less visited than Oplontis, so you might find yourself completely alone.
Some of the most famous finds from Stabiae are now at the Naples Archaeological Museum. The exquisite painting of “Primavera” gathering flowers is a highlight, alongside some delicate obsidian cups. Seeing these artifacts really brings the luxurious lifestyle of the Roman elite to life.
Naples Archaeological Museum Treasures
The National Archaeological Museum in Naples is an absolute must-visit if you’re exploring the Vesuvian sites. It houses a vast collection of artifacts, many of which are essential for understanding the context of places like Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Beyond the famous sculptures, I was fascinated by the everyday objects. There are cases upon cases of Roman “bric à brac”—lamps (some quite amusingly phallic in shape), hundreds of small bronze statuettes, pottery, cooking equipment, and even musical instruments. It truly shows the clutter and familiarity of real Roman homes, reminding you that people haven’t changed all that much.
Kitchenware of the Ancients
I spent a lot of time looking at the cooking equipment in the museum. You can find pans, moulds, and even egg poachers that look surprisingly similar to modern kitchenware. It’s a fun and engaging way to connect with the past.
Family Moment at the Museum
I remember Lily, my seven-year-old, being completely captivated by a display of ancient toys and dolls. She had been a little overwhelmed by the sheer volume of artifacts initially, but seeing those familiar shapes sparked her imagination. We spent quite a while there, her asking questions about how children played almost two thousand years ago. Even Ethan, who’s only four, pointed at some of the little bronze animal figurines, giggling.
Navigating the Sites
Getting to these sites is surprisingly manageable using public transport. The Circumvesuviana railway line, which runs from Naples to Sorrento, is your best bet for reaching most of them.
You can easily get off at Ercolano for Herculaneum. Torre Annunziata is the station for Oplontis. These stations are within easy walking distance of the archaeological sites.
Reaching Stabiae
Stabiae is a little less straightforward to reach. From the Via Nocera station on the Circumvesuviana, you’ll either have a brisk walk or need to catch a bus, which will take you through the town of Castellammare di Stabia.
Practical Travel Tips
For a more relaxed holiday atmosphere, I’d recommend staying in Sorrento. However, if you want easy access to the museums and central Naples, basing yourself there is also a great option. Naples has direct flights from several airlines, making it accessible.
Tickets and Opening Hours
Tickets can be combined for Pompeii, Oplontis, and Stabiae, costing around €18. The opening hours for these sites generally run from 8:30 am or 9 am until 6 pm in the summer and close earlier at 3:30 pm in the winter. It’s always best to check the specific Pompeii Sites website for the most up-to-date information.
The National Archaeological Museum in Naples is open from 9 am to 7:30 pm, but it’s closed on Tuesdays. Ticket prices are also around €18. You can find more details on their official website.
Entry to Herculaneum is separate and costs about €13. Their opening times are similar, with longer hours in the summer (until 7:30 pm) and shorter hours in the winter (until 5 pm).
Dining Near the Museum
The Naples Archaeological Museum has a decent bookshop, but its facilities for refreshments are limited. Don’t expect much beyond a basic drink and snack. However, a short walk of five to ten minutes down Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli will lead you to several good restaurants that aren’t just tourist traps, offering a chance to sample some local cuisine.
Venturing beyond the most famous sites to explore places like Herculaneum, Oplontis, and Stabiae truly enriched my understanding of Roman life and offered a more peaceful way to experience these incredible ancient ruins.