Exploring the Italian Riviera by Train
When I think of the Italian Riviera, I picture the deep blue of the Ligurian Sea meeting sun-drenched coastlines, with colorful villas clinging to dramatic cliffs. This region offers a different kind of Italian magic, and traveling by train is undeniably the best way to experience its rugged beauty. The extreme terrain makes driving a challenge, but the train journey itself is a visual spectacle, revealing one breathtaking view after another. It’s a fantastic alternative to more crowded destinations, offering a chance to step back in time and explore some truly stunning seaside villages.
Starting Your Journey in Genoa
Our adventure begins in Genoa, a historic port city nicknamed “La Superba.” Once a maritime powerhouse, Genoa still feels like it. It’s a busy, diverse place with a faded aristocratic charm. There’s a lot of investment happening, especially in the harbor area, and it’s exciting to see the city undergoing a renaissance. I really enjoyed wandering through its narrow streets, stopping for espressos at local bars, and, of course, indulging in Ligurian specialties. You absolutely have to try the focaccia here; it’s legendary. And don’t miss the pesto Genovese, traditionally served with trofie pasta twists. If you’re traveling with Lily, the Aquarium of Genoa is a good option to keep her entertained for a few hours. From Genoa’s central Piazza Principe station, the Cinque Terre Express runs frequently, making it easy to hop on and start exploring.
📍 The Cinque Terre Express train runs from mid-March to early November.
The Five Towns of Cinque Terre
Monterosso al Mare
Our first stop in the Cinque Terre is Monterosso al Mare, the largest of the five villages and the only one with a proper sandy beach. This made it an ideal spot for Lily to finally get in the sea. The beach is quite striking, with the damaged statue of Neptune, the Gigante, standing guard at one end. I picked up a cheap pair of water shoes here for Lily, which were a good idea for the other towns, as many beaches are rocky. Beyond the beach, you can explore the Church of San Giovanni Battista or venture up to the Sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Soviore for incredible views. We also considered a boat trip to see the coastline from the water, which looked like a fantastic way to experience the rugged cliffs.
Vernazza
Vernazza is truly postcard-perfect, with a cluster of colorful buildings spilling down to a tiny harbor. The 14th-century Santa Margherita di Antiochia church, perched right on the harbor, is a must-see. For those who enjoy hiking, the Blue Trail connects all five towns. We opted for a short hike up a section of the trail towards Monterosso just before sunset. The view of Vernazza from above as the light softened was absolutely unforgettable. Access to these trails, which are part of the Cinque Terre National Park, is included if you purchase a Cinque Terre Card or a multi-day train pass.
Fares for the Cinque Terre Express are quite reasonable, with a one-way ticket costing around five euros, or a three-day train card for approximately 47 euros. Discounts are available for children under 11. Remember to validate your ticket before boarding to avoid fines.
Corniglia
A short train ride brings you to Corniglia, perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop high above the sea. It’s a bit quieter than some of the other towns, partly because reaching the waterfront involves climbing the Lardarina staircase, about 400 steps. While it might seem daunting, this elevation means fewer crowds, making it a great spot for a relaxed lunch or aperitivo. We found a lovely little place with a view and enjoyed a pizza and gelato without feeling rushed, which Michael really appreciated after a busy morning.
Manarola
Manarola is often considered the most beautiful town in Cinque Terre, and it’s easy to see why. Just a two-minute train ride from Corniglia, it also offers a section of the Blue Trail for hikers. Simply wandering through the winding streets and surrounding hills provides incredible vistas. I was particularly interested in the local wines. The region is known for its native Bosco grape, blended with Albarola and Vermentino, as well as the sweet dessert wine Sciacchetrà. The town is surrounded by ancient vineyards, and if you visit in September, you might even catch the grape harvest. We enjoyed some local seafood here, which paired perfectly with the regional white wine. The famous Via dell’Amore trail, connecting Manarola to Riomaggiore, is currently closed due to a landslide and is expected to reopen in 2024.
⚡ Quick Tips
- Purchase a Cinque Terre Card for access to hiking trails and unlimited train travel within the park.
- Validate your train tickets before boarding to avoid fines.
- Consider visiting outside of peak summer months for fewer crowds.
- Wear comfortable shoes suitable for walking and climbing stairs.
Riomaggiore
Riomaggiore is the final village of the Cinque Terre and has a more modernized feel, though it retains plenty of its charm. After enjoying some gelato, we headed down to the water. You can relax on the pebbled beach or find spots along the rocky areas for sunbathing and swimming. For those interested in marine life, there’s a dive center offering snorkeling and scuba diving excursions. The Cinque Terre is a protected marine area, so it’s a fantastic last chance to explore the underwater world before leaving the region.
A Taste of Tuscany in Livorno
Leaving the Cinque Terre behind, our train journey continued to Livorno, officially placing us in Tuscany. This city offers a different experience, with its 17th-century Quartiere Venezia, or “New Venice,” a neighborhood crisscrossed by canals. We made sure to stop for cacciucco, a local fish stew specialty, at one of the marina’s seafood shacks; it was rich and flavorful. From Livorno, it’s also a very quick train ride to Pisa, should you want to see the famous leaning tower.
This trip along the Italian Riviera, accessed so easily by train, was a wonderful way to experience a less-traveled but equally stunning part of Italy. It’s a region that rewards slow travel and offers breathtaking scenery at every turn.
I always encourage readers to embrace the journey as much as the destination, and the train routes along the Ligurian coast are a perfect example of that principle.