Italy’s Umbria region, known as the “green heart” of the country, offers an incredible hiking experience that feels both ancient and deeply rewarding. It’s a place where the simple act of walking connects you to nature and history in a profound way. For anyone looking for a travel experience that goes beyond the typical tourist trail, this region presents an opportunity to slow down and truly absorb your surroundings.
Discovering St Francis’s Way
The Via di Francesco, or the Way of St Francis, is a pilgrim route that traces the steps of the beloved saint. Stretching from Florence to Rome, this approximately 550km path offers a chance to explore the rugged beauty of the Apennine Mountains. We decided to tackle a significant portion of this trail, focusing on a section that winds through historic towns and stunning natural landscapes.
Our journey began in Assisi, a city that resonates with spiritual history. Even though it’s a popular destination, we found that starting early in the morning allowed us to experience moments of quiet reflection. The sounds of birds and cicadas replaced the usual tourist bustle, offering a glimpse into the peace St Francis himself might have sought.
Exploring Assisi’s Charm
Assisi, the birthplace of St Francis, is a town that beautifully blends history with a lively present. While it can feel busy with visitors, its medieval streets retain a distinctive charm. Walking through its narrow lanes reveals stone buildings, inviting glimpses into artisan shops, and the ever-present sense of history.
We chose to stay slightly outside the main tourist hubs to find a more tranquil base. This allowed us to prepare for our treks each day without feeling overwhelmed by crowds. The air here often carries the scent of pine and wildflowers, a welcome change from city life.
What is the Via di Francesco?
The Via di Francesco is a network of paths that follow the journeys of St Francis of Assisi. Established by the Umbria tourist board, it’s promoted for its historical significance and natural beauty.
It’s a route that encourages a slower pace of travel, focusing on walking and appreciating the landscape. Many pilgrims and hikers use this trail to find a connection to nature and spiritual reflection.
Trekking the Umbrian Landscape
Our six-day trek covered about 110km, taking us from Assisi towards the Lazio border. We opted for a more authentic trekking style, carrying our own minimal belongings to reduce our environmental impact. This meant carefully selecting only the essentials for our daily hikes, a practice that St Francis would likely have appreciated.
The Western Apennines present a varied terrain, with steep climbs and rewarding descents. Each day brought new vistas of rolling hills, dense forests, and ancient valleys. The beauty of Umbria truly reveals itself through the effort of traversing its landscapes on foot.
The Ascent to Eremo delle Carceri
One of our most memorable days involved a challenging ascent to Eremo delle Carceri, a hermitage nestled on the slopes of Mount Subasio. This was not a walk for the faint of heart, with steep trails demanding our full attention. The blue and yellow waymarkers guided us through a dense forest that felt like stepping back in time.
Reaching the hermitage was a moment of quiet triumph. While other visitors arrived by minibus, the small monastic buildings and the chapel where St Francis meditated still exuded a profound sense of peace. It’s a powerful place, offering stunning views and a palpable connection to its history.
Descending from the hermitage proved to be just as demanding, with slippy gravel paths making the journey down tricky. It’s on these moments that you truly appreciate the resilience required for such a pilgrimage, whether spiritual or simply for adventure.
How long is the Via di Francesco?
The entire Via di Francesco route spans approximately 550 kilometers, connecting Florence to Rome.
The trek is typically divided into stages, allowing hikers to customize their journey based on time and fitness levels.
Experiencing Nature’s Glories
The Umbrian landscape is characterized by its dramatic topography, often involving climbs up ridges to reveal breathtaking panoramas. We found ourselves constantly stopping to admire the wide valleys, ancient forests, and clear streams that define this region. These moments of natural beauty were plentiful and deeply restorative.
Picnics became a cherished part of our daily routine. Finding a secluded spot in an olive grove, a forest clearing, or a high meadow dotted with wildflowers provided a perfect midday pause. These breaks allowed us to recharge, enjoy simple meals, and soak in the tranquility of our surroundings.
Encounters with Serenity
Our path led us to Eremo delle Allodole (Skylarks), a site with a rich history dating back to the fifth century. Here, we met Sister Lucia, a nun whose gentle nature and open curiosity disarmed any preconceptions. Her simple blue dress and warm smile were a testament to the peaceful spirit that resides in such places.
The caves at Eremo delle Allodole, though spartan, served as a vital refuge for early Christian missionaries and later for St Francis himself. Their consistent cool temperature would have provided much-needed respite from the Umbrian climate. Witnessing a butterfly land on Sister Lucia’s arm, as if listening to her conversation, felt like a gentle echo of St Francis’s legendary connection with nature.
The area around Eremo delle Allodole seemed particularly alive with birdsong, enhancing the feeling of being immersed in a natural sanctuary. It’s in these quiet corners of Umbria that you can truly feel the essence of the landscape.
Best time to walk Via di Francesco?
Spring and autumn are ideal seasons for hiking the Via di Francesco, offering pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds.
Summer can be very hot, particularly in the lower valleys, while winter may present challenging weather conditions.
Culinary Delights of Umbria
While the Franciscan brothers lived a life of simplicity, we found ourselves indulging in the region’s incredible cuisine each evening. After long days of walking, a hot shower, a comfortable bed, and a delicious meal felt like luxurious necessities. Booking hotels provided these comforts, allowing us to rest and refuel.
Umbrian food is hearty and traditional, reflecting the agricultural heritage of the region. We sought out local establishments that offered authentic dishes, often prepared with ingredients that St Francis himself might have recognized.
Sampling Local Flavors
In Spello, the Hostaria de Dadà offered a taste of classic Umbrian fare, including flatbread made with lard, flour, and water, served hot from the pan. Chickpea soup and spelt ravioli were also highlights, showcasing the simple yet profound flavors of the region.
Our culinary journey reached its peak at Antica Dimora Alla Rocca in Trevi. The standout dish was a pear and pecorino tart, beautifully complemented by pepper, honey, and hazelnuts. The homemade tortellini in cream sauce that followed was rich and satisfying, providing ample energy for the challenging climbs that awaited us.
These meals were more than just sustenance; they were an integral part of the cultural experience, connecting us to the land and its traditions. Each dish told a story of local produce and time-honored recipes.
What should I pack for hiking?
Pack light, focusing on essentials like spare clothing, toiletries, sun protection, and comfortable, broken-in hiking boots.
A reliable guidebook and navigation tools, such as a phone with GPS, are also crucial for a successful trek.
The Rhythm of the Trail
There’s a unique satisfaction that comes with long-distance walking. The steady progress, the ever-changing scenery, and the new town or village each night create a meditative rhythm. As we walked, just the two of us amidst the vast landscapes, it became a profoundly bonding experience for Michael and me.
We discovered our complementary strengths on the trail: I tended to be faster on ascents, while he was more sure-footed on descents and possessed a better sense of direction. This mutual reliance and encouragement were vital, especially on days when the path became particularly demanding.
Challenges and Rewards
One evening, after a long day of undulating terrain, we arrived in Poreta, only to find our hotel situated another kilometer uphill from the village center. The exertion led to a few choice words from me, but the eventual arrival at our comfortable lodging was met with immense relief and appreciation for reaching our destination.
Despite the physical demands, we found significant spiritual and personal fulfillment. The Via di Francesco attracts a diverse group of travelers, including many non-believers who are drawn to the history, nature, and challenge of the route. We encountered fellow walkers from all walks of life, sharing smiles and stories along the way.
We approached the religious aspects of the pilgrimage with respect but kept our focus primarily on the experience of the landscape and the journey itself. The stunning views, the majestic waterfalls, and the serene beauty of Lake Piediluco offered ample inspiration.
Can I hike the Via di Francesco solo?
Yes, the Via di Francesco is suitable for solo hikers, with well-marked paths and available accommodation options.
It’s advisable to have reliable navigation tools and inform someone of your itinerary.
Immersed in Italy’s Green Heart
Umbria, truly Italy’s “green heart,” offers an unparalleled opportunity to walk among its wooded hills and let the natural glories envelop your senses. This is where the spirit of St Francis’s teachings—respect for nature, simplicity, and a focus on inner peace—feels most alive. Our journey along the Via di Francesco was not just a physical trek; it was an immersive experience that deepened our connection to the natural world and provided a welcome respite from the demands of modern life.
As we continue to seek out experiences that offer both adventure and introspection, Umbria stands out as a destination that deeply nourishes the soul. For you and your family, consider the profound beauty and quiet joy that can be found by walking in the footsteps of history, surrounded by nature’s embrace. Perhaps Lily and Ethan might even discover a special connection to the stories of St Francis and the natural world he so cherished. The gentle rhythm of walking through these timeless landscapes offers a unique kind of family bonding, creating memories that resonate long after the journey ends.