You might think you know Italy, but the island of Capri offers a concentrated dose of its magic that’s truly special. It’s a place that begs to be explored slowly, with winding lanes, dramatic cliffs, and the intoxicating scent of citrus in the air. Even with a short visit, you can feel the island’s unique history and vibrant culture.
Summertime sees 20,000 visitors daily on Capri.
My family and I recently spent a few days here, and it quickly became a highlight of our Italian adventure. Michael loved photographing the coastal views, while Lily was fascinated by the small boats bobbing in the marina. Ethan, well, he tried to eat his gelato twice, which felt about right for Capri.
Capri is worth the hype if you embrace its active nature and prepare for crowds during peak season.
One of the most distinctive features of Capri is its scent. It’s not just the flowers scattered everywhere, but a signature perfume born from the island’s flora. Legend says the practice began in the 1300s when Giacomo Arcucci presented local flowers to Queen Giovanna d’Angiò. After noticing how long the water in the vase retained a pleasant aroma, the idea for Carthusia Perfume was born. You can still find samples and bottles of this distinct island scent in shops today.
Island Views and Heights
Much of Capri’s dramatic landscape is shaped by its limestone composition. The island rises to Monte Solaro, its highest point, offering panoramic views. You can reach this summit, standing at 1,932 feet, either by a hike up a series of steps or by taking a scenic chairlift from Anacapri.
The chairlift ride to Monte Solaro offers superb vistas and takes about 12 minutes.
For Lily, the chairlift was an adventure in itself, offering a bird’s-eye view of the coastline. Michael particularly enjoyed capturing the rugged terrain from this elevated vantage point. It’s a rewarding journey, especially on a clear day, where the Tyrrhenian Sea stretches out in every direction.
While Monte Solaro is the island’s peak, smaller geological wonders dot the coastline. The Faraglioni, a trio of imposing rock formations, are a signature sight. These sea stacks, named Stella, Faraglione di Mezzo, and Faraglioni di Fuori, rise dramatically from the sea. Boaters often navigate around them, and seeing them from a boat tour provides a unique perspective on their scale.
Scenery
Photography
Boating
The island’s coastline is also renowned for its grottoes, with the Blue Grotto being the most famous. This sea cave, nearly 500 feet deep, is known for its stunning azure light. Sunlight entering the cave filters through the water, creating a mesmerizing blue glow. Access is typically by small rowboat, and many visitors take the opportunity for a dip to cool off.
Consider visiting the Blue Grotto early in the morning or later in the afternoon to potentially avoid the longest queues, especially in peak season.
Island Life and Local Flavor
Capri is surprisingly populated for its size, housing around 12,000 residents. The island is divided into two main towns: Capri and Anacapri. Capri town, with its famous marina, is the more frequented hub for tourists, packed with shops and restaurants. Anacapri, located at a higher elevation, offers a slightly more tranquil experience and is where many locals reside. It’s also the starting point for the chairlift to Monte Solaro.
Getting around Capri requires a willingness to walk, as the island is quite mountainous with steep roads. Cars are banned for tourists to preserve the scenery and manage traffic. Instead, you’ll rely on walking, taxis, or local buses. For us, walking was the best way to stumble upon unexpected views and quieter corners, though Ethan definitely tested my patience on some of the inclines.
| Transport Method | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Walking | Free, discover hidden paths | Can be strenuous, time-consuming |
| Taxi | Convenient, door-to-door | Expensive, subject to traffic |
| Bus | Affordable, covers main routes | Can be crowded, fixed schedules |
| Chairlift | Scenic, quick access to Monte Solaro | Limited to one destination |
The island also has its own welcoming mascot of sorts: a bronze statue known as “Gennarino the Scugnizzo.” Depicting a young boy sitting on a rock, he is said to greet boaters arriving by sea. Tradition holds that saying “ciao” to the statue brings good luck, a simple ritual that adds a touch of local charm.
Capri’s culinary scene is as inviting as its views. It’s the birthplace of the Caprese salad, a simple yet exquisite dish featuring fresh tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, and olive oil. You can find this fresh delight prepared expertly across the island. Another local specialty is its flourless chocolate cake, a rich dessert with an interesting history of an unintentionally forgotten ingredient.
While Capri is known for its beauty and delicasies, it also has a history marked by hardship. A devastating plague in the 17th century severely impacted the island’s small population, with a significant portion of the residents lost. Historical accounts tell of the desperate measures taken by locals facing the crisis.
For anyone planning a visit, embracing the island’s terrain and vibrant energy is key. Capri rewards those who are ready to explore its heights, delve into its waters, and savor its distinct flavors. It’s a place where natural beauty and a unique local culture combine to create an unforgettable experience.