Italy is full of incredible places, but sometimes the most famous ones can be a little overwhelming. Between the crowds and the costs, a trip to Rome can feel more like a challenge than a vacation. If you’re looking for a quieter, more affordable Italian experience, I found a wonderful option that really surprised me: Assisi.
Assisi A Peaceful Hilltop Town
This historic town is perched in the Umbria region, right in the center of Italy. Many visitors, even those who have been to Italy before, tend to overlook Assisi. It sits calmly on its hilltop, a beautiful medieval community that feels centuries away from the rush of modern life. The only real crowds you’ll encounter are likely to be pilgrims, as Assisi is famously linked to Saint Francis, Italy’s patron saint.
If you’re traveling with family, the sense of peace here is something special. It’s a place where you can slow down and truly appreciate the surroundings. For a 7-year-old like Lily, the winding cobblestone streets and the sheer history can spark a wonderful imagination. And for a 4-year-old like Ethan, the open spaces in the smaller piazzas offer room to explore without feeling lost in a sea of people.
Exploring Assisi’s Medieval Heart
Assisi’s old town has remained remarkably unchanged since the Middle Ages. It’s no wonder this entire area is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Unlike the sticker shock you can get in bigger cities, a lot of Assisi’s beauty is accessible without an entrance fee, making it a fantastic choice for budget-conscious travelers. You’ll find it has one of the highest numbers of well-regarded free attractions per person of any European town.
What free sights can I see
One of the most impressive sights is the Basilica di San Francesco d’Assisi. This two-level church, built after Saint Francis was canonized, is filled with stunning frescoes that tell the story of his life. It also houses his tomb. While it’s a significant destination for pilgrims, there are many other medieval churches with beautiful art and ancient altarpieces that are just as rewarding to visit and often less crowded.
I particularly loved the Basilica di San Rufino. Built in the Romanesque style, it features striking rose windows and an ancient Roman cistern inside that you can still see. Another must-see is the Basilica di Santa Chiara. Construction started in 1257, and it’s one of the best-preserved historic churches, with impressive Gothic buttresses and colorful interior frescos.
Castles and Roman History
Dominating the skyline of Assisi are two imposing castles. The larger one is called Rocca Maggiore, which literally means ‘Big Rock.’ There’s also a smaller, ruined Roman-era fort with just three towers still standing. While Assisi doesn’t have its own Colosseum, history buffs will be pleased to know there’s a partly preserved Roman amphitheater from the 1st century AD. This area is bordered by stone houses dating back to the 11th century, offering a fascinating glimpse into different historical periods.
For a truly unique experience, take a short trip to the Eremo delle Carceri. This tiny monastery sits above Assisi, overlooking a canyon. It’s a place where Saint Francis often went to find peace. According to local stories, this is where he delivered his famous sermon to the birds. The quiet solitude here is profound, and it’s an easy excursion if you have a car or can arrange transport. Even for a family trip, it offers a moment of reflection.
Wandering through Assisi’s maze of cobblestone streets will also lead you to the Temple of Minerva. This ancient Roman building, once dedicated to a goddess, now houses a beautiful Baroque church. It’s a testament to the layers of history present in the town, with Roman foundations supporting centuries of later architecture.
Are there Roman ruins to visit
Yes, Assisi has a partially preserved Roman amphitheater dating back to the 1st century AD. You can also see the remains of the Temple of Minerva, an ancient Roman structure that has been repurposed over time. These sites offer a good opportunity to discuss Roman history with children in a tangible way.
Affordable Stays and Delicious Food
One of the biggest draws of Assisi, especially for families looking to manage their budget, is its affordability. Compared to many other Italian tourist hotspots, Assisi is remarkably easy on the wallet. From accommodation to meals, you’re unlikely to spend a fortune for a few days here. Finding comfortable lodging is quite straightforward; I found a lovely Airbnb for our family of four that felt very homey and was well within our budget for a three-night stay. Even hotels offer reasonable rates for the area.
The food in Assisi is also wonderfully inexpensive and incredibly tasty. It hasn’t been spoiled by overtourism, so you can enjoy authentic Italian dishes without paying premium prices. I particularly enjoyed some local trattorias where pasta dishes were reasonably priced, and a margherita pizza was a perfect, affordable option for Lily and Ethan. A glass of local wine is also very budget-friendly, making it easy to relax after a day of exploring.
For a real taste of Umbria, I highly recommend La Bella Trattoria degli Angeli. They have amazing pasta, especially dishes with truffles, and serve local Umbrian wine in beautiful ceramic pitchers. If you’re looking for a restaurant with a view that will impress, Le Terrazze di Propezio offers stunning vistas over the old town and the surrounding hills. Their signature gnocchi is a must-try, but be sure to book ahead, especially around sunset.
If you prefer a more casual, family-run atmosphere, Nonna Ninna is an excellent choice. The staff are warm and welcoming, and the ingredients are wonderfully fresh. It’s places like these that make a trip truly memorable; the simple, homemade Italian food is superb. For dessert, you absolutely have to try their mango cheesecake – it was a delightful surprise and a perfect end to our meals there.
What are the typical food prices
In Assisi, you can expect pasta dishes to cost around $11-22. A margherita pizza is typically available for about $9. A glass of wine usually costs around $5, offering great value for enjoying local flavors.
New Train Service to Assisi
Getting to Assisi is becoming even easier. Umbria, as a region, is often overlooked by American tourists, yet its towns rival those of Tuscany in beauty. Now, there’s a new express train service launching from Rome directly to Assisi. This makes visiting this charming region much more convenient. From October 5 to December 1, you can catch the Espresso Assisi train from Roma Termini on Saturdays and Sundays. The journey takes about 2 hours and 32 minutes and tickets are very affordable, starting at around 22 euros, which is roughly $24.34.
This new train route is a game-changer for planning a trip that combines the history of Rome with the tranquility of Assisi. It allows for a day trip or a longer stay without the hassle of multiple transfers. Michael was impressed with how relaxed the journey was, and it meant Lily and Ethan weren’t stuck in a car for too long, which always makes travel smoother.
Beyond Assisi, there are other exciting travel opportunities developing. For instance, an overnight train, the Espresso Langhe Monferrato, now travels from Rome to the picturesque town of Alba in the Piedmont region. This opens up even more of Italy’s diverse landscapes and wine regions for exploration in the fall of 2026.
How long does the train from Rome to Assisi take
The new Espresso Assisi train takes approximately 2 hours and 32 minutes for the journey from Roma Termini to Assisi.
Assisi truly offers a wonderful contrast to the busier tourist hubs. Its rich history, religious significance, and the simple beauty of its medieval streets make it an ideal destination for anyone seeking a more authentic and peaceful Italian experience. It’s a place that stays with you long after you’ve left.