It’s hard to truly grasp Rome in just a single day, but with some planning and a willingness to pace yourself, you can experience some of the city’s absolute best food moments. This itinerary is designed for those with a serious appetite and a love for exploration, focusing on a mix of grazing and a few more substantial stops. Remember to wear comfortable shoes because you’ll be doing a lot of walking between these delicious destinations.
Morning Pastry Perfection
Start your day off right at Pasticceria Regoli, a pastry shop that feels like a step back in time. Located in the Esquilino district, its blue tiled walls and vintage staff uniforms create a charming atmosphere. I always go for their maritozzi, which are incredible yeasted buns generously filled with whipped cream. It’s a messy but delightful treat, and I recommend pairing it with a classic espresso or cappuccino. Just a heads-up, there are a few steps to get your order: you order and pay at the counter, then take your receipt to the coffee shop next door for your drink, and then find a table.
My daughter Lily, who usually needs convincing to try new things, absolutely loved the sweet creaminess of her maritozzi. It was a great way to start the morning, and she even managed to get a little on her nose, which made Michael chuckle.
Market Grazing in Testaccio
By mid-morning, a visit to Mercato di Testaccio is a must. This is my favorite market for both shopping and simply observing Roman life. Around 10:30 a.m., it’s a great time to visit as the earlier rush has subsided. Before diving into the food, I like to stop by Silvia and Gabriele Vittori at Box 68. They can give you a quick lesson on what fruits and vegetables are in season locally. It’s fascinating to learn about the edible weeds too!
Near the produce stalls, you’ll find the Sartor family’s butcher stand (Box 61-70). If you’re lucky, you might see Signore Sartor expertly preparing lamb. For a second breakfast, I head to Artenio Fanella at Box 90 for his personal pizzette. I usually opt for the simple tomato sauce version. But don’t fill up too much, because the next stop is essential.
My son Ethan, who is always hungry, enjoyed picking out a few different kinds of figs from Silvia and Gabriele. He’s such an adventurous eater when it comes to fruit, and it was a perfect sensory experience for him in the middle of the market bustle.
The Birthplace of Trapizzino
Just a short walk from the market is where the famous Trapizzino was invented. This clever creation merges the shape of a tramezzino sandwich with a slow-leavened pizza dough, creating a unique fast-food experience. The fillings are classic Roman dishes served hot inside. I always go for the chicken cacciatore filling; it’s incredibly tender and flavorful. There are now several locations, but starting at the original spot on Via Giovanni Branca, 88 is the best way to experience it.
Michael and I shared a chicken cacciatore trapizzino, and it was the perfect savory bite after our market exploration. It’s substantial enough to be satisfying but not so heavy that it weighs you down for the rest of the day’s culinary adventures.
A Double Dose of Bonci Pizza
The Trionfale neighborhood, north of the Vatican, offers a welcome escape from the usual tourist crowds. My first stop here is Pizzarium, owned by Gabriele Bonci. This place has gained worldwide acclaim for its pizza al taglio, made with cold-fermented dough and exceptional artisanal toppings. The toppings change constantly, but classics like potato and mozzarella or tomato and oregano are usually available. It’s a small, stand-up place, and the quality speaks for itself.
A short walk away, you’ll find another Bonci venture, Panificio Bonci. This is a more traditional bakery, offering loaves of bread, pastries, and some prepared foods. While they also have pizza by the slice, it’s the roasted chicken here that I can’t recommend enough. It’s seasoned perfectly, and the potatoes served alongside are incredibly delicious, soaked in rendered fat. It’s a fantastic contrast to the more experimental pizzas at Pizzarium.
Lily was mesmerized by the variety of colorful toppings at Pizzarium. We got a simple potato and mozzarella slice for her, which she devoured. Later, at Panificio Bonci, the roasted chicken was a huge hit with Michael and the kids. Ethan kept asking for more of the crispy potatoes, and Lily even tried some of the tender chicken meat. It was a comforting, hearty meal in a casual setting.
Afternoon Gelato Break
No Roman food tour is complete without gelato, and Gelateria dei Gracchi is a top-tier choice. Be prepared for a crowd, especially at their original location on Via di S. Pantaleo, 61. Grab a ticket number upon entering before joining the queue. My go-to flavors are the rich pistachio and the smooth, slightly boozy zabaione. It’s the perfect midday treat to refresh your palate.
Taking a moment to enjoy this gelato felt like a real treat. Even with the slight crowd, the quick service meant we were soon sitting on a nearby bench, hands sticky with pure joy. Michael loved his coffee-flavored scoop, and the kids were thrilled with their choices.
Pre-Dinner Aperitivo
As the late afternoon rolls around, it’s time for aperitivo at Il Goccetto. This wine bar on Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14, is the perfect spot to relax and prime your appetite for dinner. They have an extensive list of wines by the glass, and I recommend trying something regional, like a Fiano from Campania or a Ribolla from Friuli. Pair your wine with their simple but delicious apple, celery leaf, and primosale salad.
Sitting outside Il Goccetto with a glass of wine felt like a true Roman experience. The atmosphere was relaxed, and the small bites were exactly what we needed to tide us over before our main evening meal. It was a lovely moment for Michael and me to chat while the kids had a moment to themselves.
Classic Roman Dinner
For an unforgettable traditional Roman meal, you must make your way to Cesare al Casaletto (also known as Da Cesare or Trattoria Da Cesare). This spot, slightly outside the main tourist areas, is worth the journey. Start with an array of fritti, small fried delights like polpette di bollito (fried meatballs) and croquette di melanzane (eggplant croquettes). Even if you think you’re not a fan of offal, their preparations of pig’s liver or oxtails are exceptionally flavorful and tender.
You can’t miss their classic pastas, such as cacio e pepe, which is done to perfection here. The grilled lamb chops are also a standout. The wine list is surprisingly affordable, featuring natural wines. It’s a true testament to classic cucina romana and a meal that will stay with you long after you leave.
The pasta dishes at Cesare al Casaletto were a huge hit with everyone. Lily, usually a picky eater, loved the simple cacio e pepe. Ethan, who has a more adventurous palate, enjoyed trying the tender lamb chops. Michael and I savored every bite of our respective dishes, the flavors so rich and authentic.
Late Night Libations
If you’re looking for a sophisticated end to your day, head to Jerry Thomas Project. This craft cocktail bar in the city center requires advance booking, but it’s an experience. It feels like a speakeasy, complete with a cozy, dimly lit atmosphere. They offer a menu of classic cocktails, many inspired by the 19th-century bartender Jerry Thomas himself, as well as their own inventive creations. The Monsieur Negroni, made with housemade gin and vermouth, is a personal favorite.
While this might be more of an adult-focused spot, the knowledge of mixology and the dedication to quality are impressive. It’s the kind of place that elevates a simple drink into something special.
Truly Late Night Fuel
When most places are closed, Ali Baba is open. This 24-hour Syrian kebab shop in southeastern Rome offers delicious and satisfying late-night sustenance. Don’t let the humble setting fool you. Their kibbeh and brik pastries are excellent, and the lamb or chicken kebabs, served in house-made lavash, are perfectly seasoned and filling. It’s a true local spot, attracting a diverse crowd of late-night revelers, workers, and chefs.
After a long day of exploring and eating, a late-night kebab from Ali Baba felt like the perfect way to round things out. Michael and I shared a lamb kebab, and it was exactly what we needed – flavorful, warm, and satisfying. Even late at night, the energy of Rome is amazing.