Autumn in the northern wine country of Gavi is truly magical, especially when the grape harvest begins and the vineyards paint the hillsides with fall colors. It’s a time when the air feels crisp, and the land is rich with the promise of new vintages. Visiting Locanda La Raia, a biodynamic estate, felt like stepping into a different rhythm of life. This sprawling property in the Gavi hills offers a beautifully renovated 12-room hotel, a testament to its history as an old posting inn.
Italian Autumn Adventures
Gavi’s Wine Traditions
The estate boasts its own Art Foundation and a delightful art walk dotted with site-specific works, which we enjoyed exploring. The highlight for me, though, was the aró restaurant. It opened fairly recently and features many ingredients grown right on the estate. Dining there, with views of the surrounding vineyards, was a real treat. Of course, the accompanying Gavi D.O.C.G. wines, also from the estate, were exceptional. It was a wonderfully serene experience, soaking in the beauty of the vineyards during harvest season.
Autumn is an ideal time to visit Gavi for its harvest celebrations and picturesque fall foliage.
Matera’s Ancient Charm
Further south, the city of Matera in Basilicata offers a completely different, yet equally compelling, Italian experience. Known for its “sassi” cave dwellings, some inhabited since the Stone Age, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site that feels like stepping back in time. Michael and I were fascinated by the history etched into every stone. We managed to visit before any potential crowds, and it truly felt like we had this incredible place to ourselves. The views from the rooftop of Palazzo Gattini, a grand 17th-century building where we stayed, were simply breathtaking, offering panoramic vistas of the ancient town.
Is Matera easily accessible
Matera is accessible by car or train, though connections can require changes depending on your starting point. The nearest airport is Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI).
Exploring the “sassi” district felt like wandering through a living museum, and I found myself constantly reaching for my camera. The unique architecture and the palpable sense of history made it an unforgettable destination. It’s a place that truly stirs the imagination.
Venice Film Festival Buzz
While not exclusively an autumn event, the Venice Film Festival in Veneto offers a unique perspective on the city. Lily and Ethan weren’t with us for this particular trip, but I remember visiting Venice during the festival once before and the energy was incredible. This year, even with fewer films and different arrangements due to current circumstances, the Lido still promises a captivating atmosphere. It’s a lovely time to be in La Serenissima at all, as the absence of the usual cruise ship crowds makes wandering the canals and streets far more enjoyable. I always find Venice to be a city that reveals its magic slowly, especially when you can explore at your own pace.
⚡ Quick Tips
- Visit Venice during the film festival for a unique cultural experience.
- Consider visiting off-season to avoid large crowds and enjoy a more relaxed pace.
- Explore the quieter canals and lesser-known neighborhoods for an authentic feel.
Rome’s Uncrowded Wonders
Rome, as expected, is another city that feels different without its usual constant flow of tourists. Seizing the opportunity to visit the Vatican Museums when they were blissfully uncrowded was a real treat. We were able to truly appreciate the art and history without feeling rushed. Supporting local businesses felt even more important during these times. The night tours of the Colosseum are an autumnal highlight, offering a dramatic perspective on this ancient icon against the night sky. There’s also a world music festival at the Palazzo Merulana during September, adding a different kind of cultural layer to the city.
📍 Consider booking tours or visiting popular attractions like the Vatican Museums and Colosseum during off-peak hours or the shoulder season for a less crowded experience.
South Tyrol’s Dolomite Scenery
In Northern Italy, South Tyrol offers a refreshing alternative to crowded beaches, with its spectacular Dolomite mountain views, flower-filled pastures, and abundant apple trees and vineyards. The Torggler Hof Apfelhotel in the Passeiertal Valley, near the spa town of Merano, is a unique farm hotel with a strong back-to-nature ethos. It’s a place that feels deeply connected to the land. I’d love to go back with Michael and the kids; I think they’d really appreciate the chance to be so close to nature, surrounded by such stunning scenery. The reopened hotel, with its new look, spa, and outdoor pool, sounds like a perfect blend of rustic charm and modern comfort.
What are the Dolomites known for
The Dolomites are renowned for their dramatic mountain peaks, offering incredible hiking, climbing, skiing, and breathtaking scenic drives.
The sense of peace and tranquility you can find in this region is remarkable. It’s a place where you can truly unplug and reconnect with yourself and nature. The crisp mountain air and the stunning landscapes are incredibly rejuvenating.
Florence’s Historic Wine Windows
Florence’s ancient wine windows, or “buchette del vino,” are a fascinating historical quirk that have found a new relevance. Originally used to serve wine during the Black Death, they are now back in business, a quirky nod to the past in response to current times. Lily would have loved seeing these little windows dotted throughout the old city walls, from palazzi to botteghe. Several historic Florentine institutions have revived this custom, including I Latini and Cantinetta Antinori. It’s a charming way to experience a piece of history, and some places are even serving coffee and ice cream through them now, like at Vivoli, known for its excellent gelato.
Florence’s “buchette del vino” offer a unique historical experience, allowing you to order drinks and snacks through small, medieval windows.
Emilia Romagna’s Extended Summer
Along the Adriatic coast, Emilia Romagna has extended its beach season well into October, offering a longer opportunity to enjoy its 110km of coastline. This region is famous for its culinary delights – Parma ham, Parmigiano Reggiano, Mortadella, and balsamic vinegar are just the start. The idea of enjoying these incredible flavors after a day by the sea is very appealing. The Verdi Festival in Parma, celebrating the composer Giuseppe Verdi, also takes place during this period, offering a rich cultural program alongside the gastronomic pleasures. It’s a region where you’re guaranteed to eat well and soak up authentic Italian life.
What are the main food specialties of Emilia Romagna
Emilia Romagna is celebrated for its rich culinary heritage, including Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Prosciutto di Parma, Mortadella, Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, and fresh pasta like tagliatelle and tortellini.
I imagine strolling through the seaside towns like Cesenatico or Rimini, perhaps feeling a connection to Federico Fellini, who was born in Rimini. The combination of sun, sea, and world-class food is hard to beat.
Brixen’s Cycling Paradise
In the northeast of Italy, nestled below Austria and Switzerland, Brixen is rapidly becoming a top European destination for cycling. Whether you’re into mountain biking at Brixen Bike Park, road racing, or leisurely e-bike rides, there’s something for everyone. The new 20km cycle path that opened at Albeins, leading through Alpine pastures and past picturesque villages towards Funes, sounds absolutely stunning. Cycling through such a dramatic backdrop as the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site, whether it’s on roads, gravel, or forest paths, would be an incredible adventure. The Mountain Bike Testival hosted here also highlights its status as a premier cycling hub.
Turin’s Slow Food Movement
Turin, in Piedmont, is a city deeply connected to the slow food movement, with the biennial Salone del Gusto held here being its spiritual heart. This event, from October 8-12, showcases the movement’s philosophy of good, clean, and fair food. Given current travel restrictions, a virtual festival running concurrently offers a way to engage with the movement globally. I admire the principles of slow food, focusing on quality ingredients and sustainable practices. It aligns with my own values when I plan meals for Michael and the kids, trying to source the best possible ingredients.
⚡ Quick Tips
- Explore Turin’s culinary scene with a focus on local, seasonal ingredients.
- Investigate the principles of the Slow Food movement and its impact on global cuisine.
- Consider visiting during the Salone del Gusto for a deep dive into artisanal food and drink.
Tuscany’s Socially Distanced Stays
For those seeking a more secluded getaway, Tuscany offers magnificent options. Villa Lena, set in a 500-acre estate of vineyards, woodland, and olive groves between Pisa and Florence, is perfectly positioned for a socially distanced stay. The renovated outbuildings, farmhouses, and stables are scattered with rooms and apartments, offering privacy and space. The estate’s art foundation hosts a variety of events, from watercolour painting to foraging. Their innovative “wild dining” experience around the estate sounds particularly unique. It’s lovely to know that places like this prioritize both connection with nature and individual well-being, offering day passes for non-guests to enjoy the grounds too.
What activities can you do at Villa Lena
Villa Lena offers a range of activities including watercolour painting, foraging, flower arranging, and “wild dining” experiences. They also have an art foundation with events on a rolling program.
I can picture a peaceful morning at Villa Lena, perhaps with a cup of coffee journaling about the surroundings, while Michael and the children explore the grounds. This kind of tranquil setting is exactly what I look for when planning a trip with family.
Sicily’s Rural Farmstay
Deep in the unspoilt Sicilian countryside, near the atmospheric hilltop town of Polizzi Generosa, Masseria Susafa offers a genuine farmstay experience. The Saeli-Rizzuto family has farmed this land for five generations. Their 13 rooms, set in converted farm workers’ buildings, are rustic yet refined. The restaurant serves much of the farm’s own bounty, including vegetables, fruits, and biological olive oil. I find these types of authentic accommodations incredibly appealing. Activities like cooking classes and hiking allow guests to truly engage with the local culture and landscape. It’s a chance to taste the real Sicily.
Masseria Susafa in Sicily provides an authentic farmstay experience with home-grown produce and traditional activities.
Abruzzo’s Wild Coastline
Abruzzo, one of Italy’s less-touristed and wildest regions, offers a profound sense of isolation and a chance to spot wildlife like bears and wolves within its national parks. The Costa dei Trabocchi, on its Adriatic coastline, is dotted with unique, spider-like wooden fishing structures perched over the sea. The Pool House, overlooking dense woodland and olive tree-dotted countryside on the slopes of the Majella mountains, sounds like a perfect retreat for those seeking peace and quiet. It’s a region that feels raw and untouched, offering a different kind of Italian beauty.
What wildlife can be found in Abruzzo National Parks
Abruzzo and Gran Sasso National Parks are home to a rich array of wildlife, including bears, wolves, chamois, and golden eagles.
The idea of being somewhere so wild and natural is very appealing. I imagine waking up to the sounds of nature, with expansive views of the countryside. It’s the kind of place that truly allows you to disconnect from the everyday hustle.
Le Marche’s Tranquil East
Often described as a less touristy Tuscany, Le Marche offers its own distinct charm with a peaceful landscape of medieval hilltop villages and quiet agrarian settings. Borgo Tranquillo, a cluster of apartments and a villa near Arcevia, boasts far-reaching, restful views. The proximity to the Cornero Riviera’s small seaside resorts adds another dimension to its appeal. It’s a region that seems to embody a slower, more peaceful way of life, perfect for unwinding and enjoying the simple beauty of the Italian countryside and coast.
Lake Como’s Lakeside Luxury
Easily accessible from Milan, Lake Como remains one of Italy’s most glamorous destinations. While hotels can be pricey, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo offers a touch of Art Nouveau elegance on its western shore. Their newly-launched T Beach club brings a lido experience to the lake, complete with a sandy beach, floating pool, and dining options. It sounds like a luxurious way to enjoy the stunning lake setting, even for non-residents willing to pay for a day pass. It’s a classic Italian setting, renowned for its beauty and sophistication.
📍 The T Beach club at Grand Hotel Tremezzo offers a luxurious lido experience on Lake Como, with day passes available for non-residents.
Puglia’s Coastal Harvest
With 800km of coastline, Puglia always offers a quiet spot to relax. September and October are ideal, with comfortable air temperatures in the mid-20s and sea temperatures around 25°C. This is also the start of harvest time for grapes and olives, adding a vibrant energy to the region. Masseria Le Mandorle, a restored 18th-century fortified farmhouse with just 12 rooms, offers a peaceful base. Its proximity to beautiful beaches and use of facilities at its sister property, Castello di Ugento, including its cookery school, makes it a very appealing option for experiencing the region’s food and culture.
When is the best time to visit Puglia
September and October are ideal for visiting Puglia, offering pleasant weather, fewer crowds, and the start of the grape and olive harvests.
I can just imagine Michael enjoying a glass of local wine while the children play near the pool, or perhaps us all taking a cooking class together. Puglia seems like a place that truly nourishes the soul, with its beautiful landscapes and delicious food.
Italy in autumn truly offers a diverse range of experiences, from quiet vineyards to ancient cities and breathtaking natural landscapes. It’s a season that allows for a more intimate connection with the country, its people, and its rich heritage.