You’re going to want to drop everything and plan a trip to Rome after hearing about this. Imagine arriving late at night, feeling the exhaustion of travel, and stumbling into a lively trattoria on Via di Torre Argentina. It feels instantly perfect, with an Aperol Spritz and a bottle of Umbrian red wine. This is the kind of magic that makes Rome the Eternal City.
Navigating Rome’s Ancient Charm
Even with suitcases in tow, the city embraces you. The streets paved with cobblestones might make rolling luggage a noisy affair, often leading you to carry them instead. It’s all part of the experience as you navigate these historic routes.
Our pensione for the night was Minerva Relais, a charming spot found behind a large green door on Via del Piè di Marmo. The street’s name, translating to Marble Foot Way, hints at the ancient remnants that pepper the city, like the giant marble foot that once belonged to a colossal statue of the Egyptian goddess Isis. You can’t escape Rome’s deep history.
An Unforgettable Pantheon Visit
After a satisfying pizza, we headed out into the night to see the Pantheon. It’s a must-visit, especially after dark. The walk from our accommodation was a short 500 meters, an easy stroll through the city’s atmospheric lanes.
Standing before the Pantheon at 1 am, you can’t help but marvel at its scale and preservation. Learning about its history, from its original colorful decoration to its construction by Hadrian and its subsequent upkeep by the Church, adds layers to the experience. The immense granite columns, each shipped from Egypt, and the white marble bases from Greece, highlight the colossal effort involved in its creation nearly two millennia ago. Seeing it illuminated at night is truly spectacular.
What’s the Pantheon’s history
The Pantheon was originally built by Marcus Agrippa, but the current structure was rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian. Its remarkable state of preservation is largely due to its conversion into a church in the 7th century.
The building itself is an engineering marvel, featuring the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome. The oculus at the top allows natural light to pour in, creating a moving spotlight effect throughout the day.
Exploring Beyond the Pantheon
The next morning, the sound of church bells welcomed us to a Sunday in Rome. Valentina, the receptionist at Minerva Relais, brought us fresh croissants, a lovely touch that made us feel truly welcome.
We decided to revisit the Pantheon, but Mass was in session, so we couldn’t enter. With our luggage conveniently stowed back in the Fiat, we then attempted to find our way to the Vatican. The labyrinthine streets were a challenge, but thankfully, a kind stranger guided us to the entrance of St. Peter’s Basilica.
A Moment with Pope Francis
As we thanked our helpful guide, Giuliano, he asked us to pray for him. It was a touching moment, especially when we realized we were listening to Pope Francis speaking from a window above the crowds. It felt like a serendipitous encounter, a true highlight of our visit.
After this unexpected spiritual moment, we indulged in some well-deserved gelato before heading to the Trevi Fountain. Despite the crowds, tossing a coin into the fountain felt like a classic Roman ritual. A nod to popular culture, it’s a fun tradition to partake in.
Ancient Wonders and Culinary Delights
Our exploration continued with a visit to Hadrian’s Temple, where we enjoyed a simple yet delicious lasagne. This was followed by our third attempt to enter the Pantheon, this time successfully navigating the long queues.
Inside, the Pantheon is as awe-inspiring as you’d expect, with its dome, oculus, tombs, and marble interiors. However, with thousands of other visitors, the experience can feel a little less intimate. After soaking in the atmosphere, the thought of walking to the Colosseum felt too much for our tired feet.
Instead, we explored a Leonardo Museum near the Palace of the Chancellery and made our way back towards the Tiber river. We decided to take one last drive past the Colosseum before leaving the city. Driving along Via dei Cerchi, we saw the Massimo, the Teatro Marcellus, the Palatino, and finally, the magnificent Colosseum itself. Its sheer scale is impressive, even from a distance.
Transitioning to Tranquil Umbria
Leaving Rome, the landscape shifted from urban to rolling hills, with creamy yellow buildings giving way to the countryside. We ventured east and then north, following the serpentine Tiber river.
Crossing the border into Umbria, we found ourselves surrounded by forested mountains. Our destination was Aquasparta, a region once studied by Galileo. Arriving at our secluded stone cottage felt like stepping onto a film set. With its private garden, pool overlooking a medieval hamlet, olive groves, and the scent of rosemary and juniper, it was the perfect place to unwind.
The Charm of HomeExchange
We booked this stunning Umbrian escape through HomeExchange, a fantastic platform for house swaps. What makes it so appealing is its flexibility; swaps don’t have to be simultaneous, and you can even swap for points if a direct exchange isn’t possible. With over 270,000 homes listed globally, it’s an excellent option for travelers seeking unique accommodation without the traditional hotel cost.
Umbria offers a different kind of experience than Rome. While it might lack the extensive retail options, it provides an unmatched sense of tranquility. It’s a haven of olive groves, wildflowers, and endless mountains, perfect for those seeking to reconnect with nature and themselves.
Embracing the Italian Pace
My attempts to speak Italian, leaning on my Spanish, quickly showed me it’s not as simple as just adding an ‘o’ to the end of words. Nevertheless, we spent a blissful week in Umbria, enjoying the freedom to walk, read, swim, and simply relax. It was a much-needed recalibration, a reminder that sometimes, all you need to do is embrace the Italian saying, “Che sarà, sarà” — whatever will be, will be.
For travel to Italy, you can find affordable flights from Irish airports to Rome. For house-swapping opportunities, HomeExchange.com is a great resource.