Italy, and specifically Rome, becomes an epicenter of both spiritual devotion and historical significance with the passing of a Pope. The city prepares for extraordinary events, drawing global attention and a significant influx of visitors. Navigating this unique time in Rome requires careful planning, but the experiences offered are deeply tied to the heart of Italian history and faith.
Preparing For The Sacred Events
The passing of a Pope triggers a period of profound national and international focus on Rome. The city, already a magnet for tourists and pilgrims, sees an even greater swell of people converging to pay their respects and witness history unfold. My recent visit coincided with such an event, and the atmosphere was unlike anything I’d experienced before. It felt like the entire city was holding its breath, a mix of solemnity and shared anticipation.
When Pope Francis passed on April 21st, the city immediately shifted gears. The funeral was set for Saturday, April 26th at 10 a.m. This date is crucial for planning any trip around this time. The events leading up to the funeral are just as significant, offering unique opportunities to witness ceremonies that are rarely seen outside of Rome. Understanding the schedule helps in deciding when and where to be.
The period of lying in state is a key part of the observance. Pope Francis’s coffin was moved to St. Peter’s Basilica on Wednesday, April 23rd, after a ceremony at his residence. The basilica then opened its doors to the public. It remained accessible for extended hours on Wednesday and Thursday, and for a good portion of Friday, allowing millions to file past. Knowing these hours beforehand is essential for anyone hoping to participate. The basilica’s schedule was clearly laid out to accommodate the large numbers of mourners.
The funeral itself, held in St. Peter’s Square, is an open-air event accessible to everyone. While tickets are not required, the sheer volume of attendees means being prepared for very long lines and security checks. The scale of such an event is immense, impacting every aspect of city life for those days. It’s a powerful reminder of the global reach of the Vatican and its leaders.
Following the funeral, the Pope’s body is taken for burial. In Pope Francis’s case, he was laid to rest at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, a significant distance from St. Peter’s. This particular choice of burial site, outside the Vatican itself, was a personal one and marked a departure from recent papal tradition. The route for this procession is usually announced closer to the time and becomes another focal point of public attention.
Understanding Papal Traditions
The rites surrounding a papal funeral are detailed in specific liturgical books, like the “Ordo Exsequiarum Romani Pontificis.” However, Popes themselves can and do influence these traditions. Pope Francis had expressed a desire to “lighten” the funeral rites, finding some aspects “excessive.” This personal touch extends to his burial arrangements, highlighting a more humble approach to his final resting place.
A crucial element of papal succession is the Conclave, the meeting where cardinals elect a new Pope. This process generally begins two to three weeks after the previous Pope’s death. For Pope Francis, this meant the Conclave would likely start around May 6th or later. The Conclave is a significant draw in itself, bringing more cardinals and interested parties to Rome. Time-sensitive visitors might have to choose between attending the funeral or waiting for the Conclave.
Cardinals typically gather for Masses at their titular churches in Rome in the days leading up to the Conclave, and a special Mass is held in St. Peter’s Basilica the day before they enter the Sistine Chapel for the election. These Masses are often open to the public, offering another way to witness the proceedings and the presence of these global religious leaders. The seclusion of the cardinals once they begin the Conclave is total, a period of intense prayer and deliberation.
The Conclave itself has a set of voting procedures. There is one vote on the evening of the first day. Subsequent days feature four votes, two in the morning and two in the afternoon. The ballots are burned after each voting session, producing either black smoke (no Pope elected) or white smoke (a new Pope has been chosen) from the Sistine Chapel chimney. Watching for this smoke becomes a communal event for those gathered in St. Peter’s Square. The voting pattern continues with breaks every five days until a new Bishop of Rome is selected.
Navigating Rome’s Transport
Rome is served by two main international airports: Fiumicino (FCO) and Ciampino (CIA). Fiumicino, located about 27 kilometers southwest of the city center, is the busier hub and handles many non-European flights. The Leonardo Express train is a convenient and frequent option, departing every 15 minutes for Termini station. Taxis are available with a fixed fare to the city walls, and buses offer a more budget-friendly transfer, taking around 50 minutes.
Ciampino is smaller and closer to the city, catering primarily to budget airlines for intra-European routes. Taxis have a fixed rate from Ciampino to central Rome, and buses provide a similar journey time and cost to those from Fiumicino. Both airports have clear signage and information desks to help visitors find their transport options.
For those not flying directly into Rome, consider other major Italian airports. Rome’s Termini station is a central hub for Italy’s high-speed rail network. This means you could easily travel to Rome from cities like Milan (just over three hours away) or Naples (about an hour away) by train. This offers flexibility if you prefer to start your Italian journey elsewhere and then proceed to Rome.
Accommodation Strategies
Given the expected crowds, booking accommodation well in advance is not just advisable, it’s essential. Rome hotels, especially those near Vatican City, are often booked up months, if not a year, ahead of major events like the Jubilee or significant papal occasions. During periods of intense activity, like the funeral of a Pope, availability plummets and prices can soar.
The Prati district, situated directly above Vatican City on the west bank of the Tiber River, is a practical choice for proximity. Alternatively, areas like Campo Marzio, across the river in the historic center, offer easy walking access to the Vatican. Neighborhoods around Campo de’ Fiori or Piazza Navona are also good options.
If you’re having trouble finding something closer, consider areas accessible by the metro. The Ottaviano metro station is the closest to the Vatican. Staying near Piazza di Spagna (the Spanish Steps) or the more budget-friendly areas around Piazza della Repubblica and Termini train station means you’re only a short metro ride away.
During periods of high demand, hotel prices can be significantly inflated. You might find two- and three-star hotels near Termini charging rates that were previously only associated with luxury accommodations. It’s worth noting that some hotels implement minimum stay policies during these peak times. For instance, a family-run three-star hotel might require a three-night minimum stay, but often they keep their rates reasonable. Even with higher prices, comparing options across different booking platforms can sometimes reveal availability at more palatable costs.
Choosing where to stay really depends on your priorities: being within walking distance of key sites, or prioritizing budget and then using public transport effectively. Always check cancellation policies when booking, as plans can sometimes change.
Sightseeing During Holy Events
During times of major papal events, Vatican City itself undergoes a shift. Tourism operations often cease as the focus turns to religious services and ceremonies. For example, the Sistine Chapel is dedicated to the Conclave, and St. Peter’s Basilica serves for events like lying in state. Vatican Museums may close, and tours of areas like the Vatican Gardens and the Necropolis would be suspended.
If your visit coincides with these events and you wish to sightsee, you’ll need to plan your activities outside Vatican City. Fortunately, Rome is replete with sites of historical and religious importance that are easily accessible.
Castel Sant’Angelo, a short walk from St. Peter’s Square, is a remarkable historical site. Originally built as Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, it later served as a papal fortress. Its history is intertwined with significant moments in Roman history, including periods of papal refuge.
Rome boasts several other “papal basilicas” that hold immense significance for the Catholic Church, second only to St. Peter’s. San Giovanni in Laterano, Santa Maria Maggiore, and San Paolo Fuori le Mura are all worth visiting. They feature “holy doors” and papal altars, and Santa Maria Maggiore, in particular, will be of interest as Pope Francis’s chosen burial place. Be aware that Santa Maria Maggiore might have restricted access around the funeral date.
For art enthusiasts, Michelangelo’s works are scattered across various churches. His powerful Moses statue is in the church of San Pietro in Vincoli. The Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, a church redesigned by Michelangelo from the ruins of a Roman bath, is awe-inspiring. His Risen Christ statue can be found in Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, a church located behind the Pantheon.
Visiting Papal Residences Beyond Rome
For those interested in papal history and who have a bit more time, two notable sites are located outside Rome itself. Castel Gandolfo, the former summer residence of the Pope, offers tours of the Apostolic Palace and its beautiful gardens with views over Lake Albano. While usually open daily, it might have specific closures for mourning.
Further afield, in Viterbo (about 100 minutes north of Rome by train), stands the Palazzo dei Papi, or Palace of the Popes. This grand palace was a papal residence from 1257 to 1281 when the Curia was based there. The city continued to be a favored papal retreat even after the Papacy returned to Rome, with popes even adding amenities like thermal baths.
What happens during the Conclave
The Conclave is a period where cardinals gather in the Sistine Chapel to elect a new Pope. They enter a state of seclusion, not being seen by the public until the election is complete. For those in St. Peter’s Square, the anticipation builds as they await the signal of white smoke, indicating a new Pope has been chosen. The day before the official start, there’s a Mass in St. Peter’s Basilica which is open to the public, where all the cardinals are present.
How long does the Conclave last
The Conclave can start no sooner than 15 days after the previous Pope’s death, so for Pope Francis, this was May 6th or later. The exact date is determined by the cardinals. Voting occurs daily, with multiple ballots cast. The process continues until a new Pope is elected. There are no seats in St. Peter’s Square for those gathering to watch for the smoke signal, so be prepared to stand for extended periods.
When should I arrive for events
For events like the lying in state, arriving early is crucial, especially for public access periods. For the funeral itself, people typically gather hours before the scheduled start time in St. Peter’s Square. For the Conclave, the public can be present in the square to witness the announcement of the new Pope, often gathering throughout the day if smoke signals are anticipated. Always check official Vatican announcements for the most accurate timings and any potential changes to public access.
Exploring Rome during such significant times offers a unique perspective on the city’s deep connection to history and faith. The blend of sacred rituals and daily life creates an unforgettable atmosphere. My family and I found that even amidst the crowds, moments of quiet reflection in ancient churches or shared wonder at the sheer scale of the events provided enduring memories. The city truly comes alive with layers of meaning during these periods.