Rome’s underground is a world waiting to be explored, a journey back in time beneath the bustling streets. You can step into ancient history, discovering layers of the city that few get to see. It’s a way to understand Rome not just as it is today, but all that it has been.
Explore Ancient Roman Dwellings
Roman Houses at Celio
This site is a quiet escape from the crowds, offering a direct look into ancient homes. You can walk through about 20 rooms that were once part of a large estate from the 4th century CE. It’s amazing to see the old pagan and Christian frescoes preserved on the walls, showing how life changed here over centuries.
You can see rooms that were once part of a wealthy person’s home from the 2nd century CE. This area developed into a larger complex with shops and a small neighborhood. The details in the pagan frescoes are stunning, giving you a real sense of how people lived.
The museum at the back is also excellent, with fascinating artifacts found on site. There’s even a room filled with bricks that have Roman stamps, showing where they came from. It’s a peaceful way to experience ancient Rome up close.
When my family visited, Lily was really intrigued by the painted pictures on the walls. She kept asking if people still lived there a long time ago. It was a great way for her to visualize history beyond just books.
The museum displays treasures like beautiful Islamic pottery. You can also find artifacts that tell the story of the martyrs Saints John and Paul, who lived and were buried here after their executions.
How to visit the Roman Houses at Celio
You can buy tickets right at the site without much waiting. It’s open Thursday to Monday from 10 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 6 pm, closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Tickets are €10, with a reduced price of €8. The site is partially accessible for wheelchairs close to the entrance. I found the spaces big and airy, never feeling closed in. There are a couple of small staircases, but they don’t feel claustrophobic.
Domus Romana at Palazzo Valentini
Located near Trajan’s Column, this site offers a look into the lives of wealthy Romans from ancient times, beneath a 17th/18th-century nobleman’s home. The way it’s set up for visitors is really well done, with an introduction video before you go underground.
You’ll walk through many rooms with intact tiled floors and frescoes. Sometimes the space goes dark and spotlights illuminate something beneath your feet, which is quite an experience. It’s entertaining, but if you dislike feeling dizzy, stay near a wall.
Photos are not allowed inside this location. It’s important to have a guide because the displays can be disorienting, especially with the light shows that might make you feel dizzy.
How to visit Domus Romana at Palazzo Valentini
You can buy tickets through their call center or website, or use a ticket vendor. They are open Wednesday to Monday from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm, closed Tuesdays and on January 1st and December 25th.
Tickets cost €12 for adults. This site does participate in the Roma Pass. While the spaces are large, the light effects might be a concern for some, but I didn’t feel claustrophobic.
Basilica of San Clemente
This basilica, just a short walk from the Colosseum, is famous for its underground levels. The church itself is beautiful, but the history beneath it is truly fascinating.
One level down from the main church, you enter a 4th-century church that was once a nobleman’s home. It features stunning medieval frescoes. The lowest level reveals the remains of a Mithraic temple, a religion popular among Roman soldiers.
The frescoes here are incredibly well-preserved and colorful. Seeing the remnants of the Mithraic temple, with the classic image of Mithras slaying a bull, adds a unique historical layer.
How to visit the Basilica of San Clemente
You can buy tickets at the ticket office inside the church. They are open Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 12:30 pm and 3 pm to 6 pm, and Sundays from 12 pm to 6 pm.
Tickets are €10. Only the main level of the basilica is wheelchair accessible. The underground levels are not. The first underground level is large and well-lit, but the lower Mithraic temple level is smaller and darker, feeling more cave-like.
Discover Ancient Roman Engineering and Daily Life
Baths of Caracalla
The Baths of Caracalla are a remarkable site, showcasing Roman engineering and architecture. What’s exciting is that now, a large underground space is open to visitors as part of the regular ticket.
This underground area offers a glimpse into how the vast baths complex operated. You can see the infrastructure that supported this massive public space. It’s an enormous area with high ceilings and good ventilation.
My youngest, Ethan, loved exploring the underground parts. He ran ahead with Michael, imagining all the people who used these ancient facilities. It was a moment of shared discovery for them.
You can find the entrance to the underground by looking for stairs outside the main walking path of the baths. If you can’t find them, just ask a staff member.
How to visit the Baths of Caracalla
The baths are open daily from 9 am, with closing times varying by season. They are closed on December 25th and January 1st. The baths themselves are wheelchair accessible, but the underground area does not seem to have access.
Tickets include access to the underground. I found the space to be enormous and not claustrophobic at all. You can also get an audio tour or a 4D virtual reality tour on-site.
Vicus Caprarius
If you’ve ever wondered about the water that feeds the Trevi Fountain, this is the place to find out. The Vicus Caprarius is where water from an ancient Roman aqueduct enters the city before being distributed.
It’s incredibly easy to visit this site, just a short walk from the Trevi Fountain itself. It’s a place where you can see a functioning part of ancient Roman infrastructure that still plays a role today.
You can see a 60-meter stretch of this aqueduct, the Aqua Virgo, which was inaugurated in 19 BCE. It’s amazing to think this system still supplies water to the Trevi Fountain.
How to visit Vicus Caprarius
This site is open Tuesday to Friday from 11 am to 5:30 pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 11 am to 7 pm. You can buy tickets on-site or book through their website.
Tickets are €4, with a reduced price of €2.50. This site participates in the Roma Pass. The entire space is large and open, so it’s not claustrophobic at all.
Mamertine Prison
Known also as the Carcer Tullianum, this ancient prison is said to be where Saints Peter and Paul were held before their executions. While there’s no absolute proof of Peter being there, there’s strong evidence for Paul.
The prison sits below the San Giuseppe dei Falegnami church, near the Roman Forum. The upper part, the Carcer, dates back to the 7th century BCE, and the lower part, the Tullianum, to the 6th century BCE.
The lowest level is where prisoners were dropped through a hole to await their fate. Many notable figures were held here before executions or death by starvation. It’s a sobering place to visit.
How to visit the Mamertine Prison
It’s open daily from 8:30 am to 4:30 pm, with the last entry at 3:30 pm. Tickets can be booked online, on-site, or through a ticket agency.
Tickets are €10 for adults, €5 for children aged 6-17, and free for children under 6. Only the top floor museum is wheelchair accessible. The final level, the prison itself, is a small space and might feel claustrophobic, though you can view some of it from above.
Step into Sacred and Historical Depths
Saint Peter’s Tomb
Deep beneath Saint Peter’s Basilica lies what is believed to be the tomb of the apostle Saint Peter. Visiting the Vatican Necropolis is one of Rome’s most sought-after experiences.
Tour groups are small, limited to 12 people, with only about 250 visitors allowed per day. This exclusivity makes it a very special visit, offering a quiet reflection on history and faith.
You’ll be with a Vatican guide who shares the history and leads you through different rooms. It’s important to note that photos are strictly forbidden on this tour.
How to book Saint Peter’s Tomb
You can book through the Vatican website or a tour agency, though the latter is more expensive. Tours run Monday to Friday from 9 am to 6 pm, and Saturdays from 9 am to 5 pm; it’s not available on Sundays.
Tickets are €13 if booked through the Vatican. A strict minimum age of 15 is enforced, and the site is not wheelchair accessible. Some spaces can be narrow, and the automatic glass doors might make it feel a bit cramped, so a little claustrophobia is possible.
Catacombs on Rome’s Appian Way
The catacombs offer a unique look into ancient Roman burial practices. The Law stated that people couldn’t be buried within the city, so these underground spaces were used for large numbers of burials.
Many of the buried were Christians, including saints, martyrs, and even popes. By the Middle Ages, these sites fell into disuse and were largely forgotten.
Visiting the three catacombs on the Appian Way—San Callisto, San Sebastiano, and Domitilla—is easy, especially if you want to see more than one. They are important Christian pilgrimage sites.
Catacombs of San Callisto
This is a prime example of Rome’s underground burial sites, with 4 levels and nearly 20 kilometers of tunnels known. Sixteen popes and several martyrs are buried here.
You’ll see the once-empty crypt of Santa Cecilia. The walk towards San Callisto is tranquil, with sheep often grazing nearby. The tunnels can be narrow and dark, so a little claustrophobia is possible depending on the section.
Catacombs of Domitilla
These catacombs are known for their beautifully preserved frescoes from ancient Rome, clearly showing Christian symbols and pagan motifs.
The frescoes here are some of the most impressive, offering a vivid look at early Christian art and symbolism. This site is particularly good for seeing detailed frescos.
Catacombs of Saint Sebastian
While some of the smallest and less well-preserved catacombs, San Sebastiano is still worth visiting to see where the saint was originally buried. It’s also where Saints Peter and Paul were first buried.
The church above the catacombs is also beautiful. Inside, you can see a sculpture of Saint Sebastian and a bust of Jesus attributed to Bernini.
How to visit the Appian Way Catacombs
Entry fees are the same for all three: €10 for adults, €7 for children aged 6-16, and free for children 5 and under. The ticket includes a guided tour. You don’t need to book unless you have a group of over 15. The 118 bus runs along the Appian Way.
Photos are strictly forbidden in the catacombs. None of them are wheelchair accessible. Visiting can be claustrophobic in parts, with narrow, dark tunnels.
Capuchin Crypt
Underneath the church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini, this crypt is one of Rome’s more eerie sites. Created in the 1600s, it houses the bones of about 3,700 Capuchin friars, arranged decoratively.
The inscription “What you are now, we once were; what we are now, you shall be” serves as a reminder of life’s fragility. It’s a unique place to see bones and even full skeletons dressed as monks.
Before entering the crypt, you visit a small museum with history about the church and the order, and a painting possibly by Caravaggio.
How to visit the Capuchin Crypt
Tickets can be purchased on-site or in advance. It’s open daily from 9 am to 7 pm, closed on December 25th, January 1st, and Easter Sunday.
Tickets are €11.50, with a reduced price of €8. Photos are not allowed inside the crypt. It is wheelchair accessible if you arrange it in advance, using an elevator from a neighboring building.
Mussolini’s Bunker
Beneath Villa Torlonia are the bunkers and bomb shelters built by Italian Fascist leader Benito Mussolini. These shelters were constructed starting in 1940.
The shelters include features like armored doors and anti-gas masks. One shelter, made in 1941, has walls of reinforced concrete. A third, more advanced bunker, was left unfinished.
You can take a guided tour of this fascinating site, with loud air-raid sirens used to enhance the experience. Tours last about 1.5 hours.
How to visit Mussolini’s Bunker
Currently, tours of this site have been suspended, but updates are expected. Previously, they were open Saturdays and Sundays from 9:30 am to 5:00 pm. Children under ten must be accompanied by an adult. The bunker is not wheelchair accessible and can feel a little claustrophobic due to its compact, underground nature.
Uncover Layers of History and Culture
Domus Aurea
The Domus Aurea, Emperor Nero’s vast palace, is an incredible underground site. Much of this complex, including gardens and lakes, was buried after Nero’s death to be forgotten.
Today, you can explore intact rooms with frescoes and vaulted ceilings. In one section, you wear virtual reality goggles that transport you back in time, offering a realistic experience of the palace.
This octagonal room is considered a precursor to the Pantheon, built about 50 years later. The site was filled with rubble, which helped preserve it until its rediscovery in the Renaissance.
How to visit Domus Aurea
Bookings can be made through Parco Colosseo or with a ticketing agency. It’s open Saturdays and Sundays from 8:30 am to 5 pm. Tickets are €18 from Parco Colosseo, more if using a ticket agency or tour.
Photos are allowed. The site is partially accessible to wheelchairs. You must go with a tour guide, and you’ll wear hard hats throughout. The spaces are enormous, wide, and well-lit, so it’s not claustrophobic.
Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore
This impressive 4th-century basilica is built on top of ancient Roman structures. Visiting the area underneath provides another glimpse into ancient Roman life.
The underground space you can visit was once a giant calendar in ancient Rome, made up of rooms with stories on the walls depicting each month. It’s truly awesome in concept.
You can see well-preserved frescoes from ancient Rome. The structure itself gives you a sense of the daily life and organization of the past.
How to visit Santa Maria Maggiore Underground
You can just show up at the basilica; staff in the front loggia can book you for the next tour. Tours go regularly and are not usually fully booked. The basilica is open daily from 7 am to 6:45 pm.
The tour costs €5. The basilica itself is free to enter. While the basilica has good wheelchair access, the underground portion is not accessible. You need a tour for this site. The underground spaces are wide with high ceilings, well-lit, and ventilated, so it’s not claustrophobic.
San Lorenzo in Lucina
Right on a popular square for cafes, this ancient church hides special secrets underneath. Many people sit outside unaware of the beautiful ruins beneath their feet.
The area was inhabited from the 5th century onward, especially after Rome was sacked by northern tribes and people moved closer to the Tiber for water. These underground ruins show Roman homes from about the 5th century CE.
You can see an intact fresco from a nobleman’s home. The tour with an expert archaeologist makes the visit even more meaningful, explaining the artifacts and ruins of this significant area.
How to visit San Lorenzo in Lucina Underground
A guided tour is necessary. A tour of the underground is offered on the last Saturday of each month at 4:15 pm for €2. You can also book a private tour with companies like Context Travel, which often combines this with other sites.
The church is open daily from 8 am to 8 pm. The underground spaces are wide with high ceilings and well-lit, so it’s not claustrophobic.
Rinascente
The flagship Rinascente department store in Rome’s shopping district near the Spanish Steps is more than just a place to shop. In its basement, you can see the remains of an Augustan-era aqueduct.
This 60-meter stretch of the Aqua Virgo aqueduct, discovered during construction, is now a feature of the store. You can view it and watch a movie about its history.
The Aqua Virgo aqueduct still functions today and is the water source for the nearby Trevi Fountain. It’s a unique blend of modern retail and ancient history.
How to visit Rinascente
The store is located at Via del Tritone, 61. It’s open Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 11 pm, and Sundays from 11 am to 8 pm. It is wheelchair accessible and not claustrophobic as you are on the ground floor of a large store.
You can visit this ruin as part of a larger Rome underground tour. You can see the aqueduct while exploring the housewares section in the basement.
A Glimpse into Daily Life and Legends
Santa Maria in Cosmedin
This basilica is famous for the Mouth of Truth, but it also has a hidden underground site. The crypt itself is about 2,000 years old, containing stones from an ancient shrine to Hercules.
These stones were incorporated into the church built in the 6th century. The crypt also houses relics of several saints, including what is said to be the skull of Saint Valentine. You can see cubby-holes where relics were kept.
It’s easy to visit this ancient Roman site beneath the altar. The structure of the crypt, with its incorporated ancient stones, offers a fascinating look into the past.
How to visit Santa Maria in Cosmedin Underground
The church is open daily from 9:30 am to 6 pm. Admission to the church is free. They request a small donation (€1-€5) to visit the crypt. The church and the Mouth of Truth are wheelchair accessible, but the underground crypt is not.
The crypt has a slightly low ceiling, but it’s a fairly big room, well-lit and ventilated, so I didn’t find it claustrophobic. Many tour companies stop here, or you can hire a private guide.
Basilica of San Crisogono
Located on a Trastevere street, this basilica has impressive Cosmatesque floors and a wealth of relics and mosaics from ancient Rome underground. You can also see surprisingly intact frescoes from medieval Rome.
As you descend, you’ll see remains of the original apse and frescoes on the sides. The church was likely built in the early 300s, and underneath are remains of houses from the late Roman Republic.
You can see an image of Saint Benedict of Nursia healing a leper in a medieval fresco. The space is large with high ceilings, but lacks extensive signage, so doing a little research beforehand is helpful.
How to visit San Crisogono Underground
To go underground, you pay the custodian €3 per person. The church is open weekdays from 7 am to 11:30 am and 4 pm to 7:30 pm, and Sundays from 8 am to 1 pm and 4 pm to 7 pm. The underground is not wheelchair accessible. The space is huge with high ceilings and plenty of light, making it not claustrophobic.
Pompey’s Theater
At Largo Argentina, where Julius Caesar was murdered, you can find remnants of Pompey’s theater underground at the Da Pancrazio restaurant. The theater was enormous, and its steps are where Caesar was assassinated.
In the basement of the restaurant, you can see parts of the theater’s structure. You can visit the underground area without eating, although the restaurant serves good food in a pleasant setting. Michael enjoyed the pasta there while I explored the ruins.
You can see a model of the theater in the restaurant’s basement, showing its vast size and the area where Caesar was killed.
How to visit Pompey’s Theater
The restaurant is located at Via del Biscione, 73-74, and is open Tuesday to Sunday from 12 pm to 3 pm and 5 pm to 11 pm, closed Mondays. Visiting the underground is free. The restaurant itself is wheelchair accessible, but the underground is not. The downstairs space is large and comfortable, but the corkscrew staircase might be a concern for some.
Crypta Balbi
This museum showcases an ongoing excavation of a theater from ancient Rome, named after Lucio Cornelio Balbo. It’s part of the National Roman Museums, and a ticket grants access to four of these museums.
Crypta Balbi is excellent for understanding how Rome has evolved over 2,000 years. You can see how different layers of history are preserved and displayed, offering a comprehensive look at the city’s transformation.
The museum provides a tangible connection to the past, showing the layers of construction and excavation that reveal Rome’s enduring history.
How to visit Crypta Balbi
You can buy tickets on-site or at any of the other three National Roman Museums. It participates in the Roma Pass. It’s open daily from 9 am to 7:45 pm, except Mondays. A ticket for just this site costs €10, or €12 for a 3-day pass to all four museums.
It has a lift and is partially accessible by wheelchair. The space is not claustrophobic at all.
Domitian’s Stadium underneath Piazza Navona
Piazza Navona is built directly on top of an ancient stadium constructed by Emperor Domitian in 86 CE. The stadium could hold up to 30,000 spectators for athletic contests.
Over centuries, the stadium fell into disuse and was eventually covered over. In the 17th century, it was transformed into the Baroque square you see today. You can explore the ruins of the original structure.
You can see parts of the original structure at one end of the piazza, or pay to go down into a well-laid-out space to view the ruins up close. It’s an easy and not claustrophobic visit.
How to visit Domitian’s Stadium
It’s located at Via di Tor Sanguigna, 3 and is open daily from 10 am to 7 pm, with Saturdays from 10 am to 8 pm. You can book online.
Tickets are €9 for a full ticket and €7 for a reduced ticket. It is not wheelchair accessible. The area is big, airy, and well-lit, so it’s not claustrophobic.
Exploring these underground sites in Rome offers a unique perspective on the city’s immense history. From ancient dwellings and engineering marvels to sacred tombs and hidden structures, Rome’s depths reveal stories that continue to fascinate visitors. It’s an adventure beneath the surface, connecting you to the ancient world in a way few other cities can.