I recently walked a path in Italy that felt like stepping back in time. It’s called the Salt Walk, and it follows a route more than 500 years old. It starts in Cervia, a town known for its sea and its unique “sweet salt,” which locals call white gold. This salt has a history going back to 1464 when salt pan workers made a pilgrimage to Rome to present their salt to Pope Paul II. It’s a tradition that still echoes today for those who choose to walk this route.
Walking Through History
The Salt Walk isn’t just a pleasant stroll; it’s a cultural journey. It stretches for nearly 200 kilometers, leading you from the Romagna coast inland toward the Tuscan hills. This path overlaps with the ancient Via Romea Germanica, a route recognized as a European Cultural Route. This historic road was first traveled in the Middle Ages by Abbot Alberto of Stade, who journeyed from Germany in 1236, passing through places like Civita di Bagnoregio before reaching Rome’s St. Peter’s Square. The Salt Walk concludes in the same grand square, with the symbolic handing over of salt to the Pope.
The tradition of the Salt Walk was suspended around 1870 due to political events in Italy. Today, walking this route offers a chance to connect with centuries of history and the people who have walked it before. It’s a path that lets you see art cities, experience natural beauty, and understand the local culture of the four regions it crosses.
Discovering Italy’s Heartland
This walk is suited for anyone who enjoys regular walking, whether you’re traveling solo, with a partner, or with family and friends. You’ll experience a variety of landscapes and encounters along the way. Getting back from Rome is simple; you can catch a train from Roma Termini station by checking the Trenitalia website for schedules. The total distance is about 200 kilometers, broken down into stages that can be adjusted to your pace.
Stages of the Salt Walk
The journey is thoughtfully divided into stages, allowing for a manageable and enjoyable pace. Each leg of the walk offers unique sights and experiences, making the entire trek a rich exploration of Italy.
Stage 1 Cervia to Forlimpopoli
My first steps were in Cervia, a place deeply connected to its salt history. The Camillone salt pan stands as a testament to this past, and the Salt Museum keeps the memory of the salt workers’ labor alive. This first stage of about 27 kilometers led me to Forlimpopoli, a town famous for its culinary heritage, being the birthplace of Pellegrino Artusi, a key figure in Italian cuisine.
Stage 2 Bertinoro to Cusercoli
Heading out from Bertinoro, known as the “balcony of Romagna,” I was treated to rolling hills dotted with vineyards and olive groves. This 23-kilometer stretch guided me towards Cusercoli, a charming ancient village where the medieval castle of the Conti Guidi family still stands, whispering tales of its past.
Stage 3 Bagno di Romagna to La Verna
The third stage, covering 23 kilometers, began in Bagno di Romagna, a place celebrated for its thermal springs and its position between Romagna and Tuscany. My destination was La Verna, a renowned convent in the Casentino area and a significant spiritual site connected to Saint Francis of Assisi.
Stage 4 Capolona to Arezzo
This 19-kilometer segment started in Capolona, once known as Campum Leonis. Here, the countryside is marked by the beauty of the Church of Santa Maria Maddalena of Sietina, a small Romanesque church adorned with frescoes that caught my eye. The walk culminated in Arezzo, where I visited the cathedral to admire Piero della Francesca’s fresco of Mary Magdalene.
Stage 5 Arezzo to Sassaia di Rigutino
Continuing from Arezzo, this 18-kilometer stage took me to Sassaia di Rigutino. The village features a historic church with a rectory dating back to the 12th century, offering a quiet moment of historical reflection.
Stage 6 Cortona to Pozzuolo
Covering 24 kilometers, this leg started in Cortona, an ancient Etruscan city located on the border between Tuscany and Umbria. The walk led me to Pozzuolo, an early medieval village situated on the hills overlooking Lake Trasimeno. I found Pozzuolo to be a lovely spot, with inviting farmhouses, wineries, and olive mills.
Stage 7 Città della Pieve to Ficulle
Another 24-kilometer journey began in Città della Pieve, a place with breathtaking landscapes between Valdichiana and Lake Trasimeno. It’s also the birthplace of the famous painter Pietro Vannucci, known as Perugino. My route ended in Ficulle, where I saw the Church of Santa Maria Vecchia and the Castle of Sala.
Stage 8 Orvieto to Civita di Bagnoregio
This 19-kilometer stage departed from Orvieto, a city rich in art, most notably its magnificent Cathedral, a symbol of Gothic architecture, and St. Patrick’s Well, an engineering marvel. The walk brought me to Civita di Bagnoregio, often called “the dying city,” which is one of Italy’s most beautiful villages.
Stage 9 Civita di Bagnoregio to Montefiascone
From Civita di Bagnoregio, the 19-kilometer walk led me to Montefiascone. This town offers stunning views of Lake Bolsena and is home to the Rocca dei Papi fortress, perched at the highest point of the village.
Stage 10 Vetralla to Sutri
The tenth stage, about 24 kilometers, started in Vetralla. Its location is excellent, situated conveniently between Rome, Viterbo, and the Tyrrhenian coast. I then proceeded to Sutri, a town dramatically set on a tuff rock formation overlooking the Via Cassia, an area also known for its ancient amphitheater.
Stage 11 Riserva dell’Insugherata to Piazza San Pietro
The final 22-kilometer segment began in the Riserva dell’Insugherata, a natural area with valuable forests and wildlife. This walk culminated in the iconic Piazza San Pietro in Rome, a place that welcomes millions each year. It was a truly special end to a long and meaningful journey, a place where Michael and I had once dreamed of visiting with Lily and Ethan.
Experiencing the Local Culture
This walk is a fantastic way to connect with the heart of Italy. You’ll encounter communities in four different regions, each with its own traditions. It’s also a culinary adventure, with opportunities to taste local food and wine specialties unique to each area. Beyond the cultural immersion, the route takes you through stunning natural reserves, like the Park of the Casentino Forests, which is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Even in 2026, these natural landscapes offer a vital connection to Italy’s heritage.
Walking this ancient route offers more than just physical activity; it’s a chance to slow down and appreciate the simple beauty of Italy. You’ll see art cities like Arezzo, with its Basilica of Saint Francis, and of course, Rome, home to the Sistine Chapel. I found myself taking many photos, especially of the varied landscapes, from the green hills of Umbria to the dramatic tuff cliffs near Rome.
This journey allows you to observe and engage with the local way of life. Stopping in small villages, you can chat with residents, learn about their crafts, and savor authentic regional dishes. I especially enjoyed finding small trattorias recommended by locals, where the food tasted like it was cooked by a nonna.
Suitability for Travelers
The Salt Walk is quite adaptable. It’s a wonderful option for families, couples, or groups of friends. The main requirement is that you are comfortable with regular walking and enjoy being on your feet for extended periods. The varied terrain and stage lengths mean you can tailor the experience to your fitness level, ensuring a comfortable and rewarding walk.
What kind of walking is involved
The terrain varies from coastal paths and rolling hills to more mountainous sections in the Apennines and eventually flatter areas as you approach Rome. While some stages are longer, the overall experience is designed to be accessible to those with a consistent walking routine. Planning for hydration and comfortable footwear is key.
What to expect regarding altitude changes
You’ll encounter altitude changes as you move from the coast into the inland hills and mountains. Some sections involve climbs, especially when heading towards places like La Verna or the towns in Tuscany and Umbria. However, these changes are generally gradual and offer rewarding viewpoints over the surrounding countryside.
Is public transport available for return
Yes, public transport is readily available for your return trip from Rome. The main station, Roma Termini, is a major hub with frequent train services connecting to cities across Italy. It’s advisable to check the Trenitalia website in advance for timetables and to book tickets, especially during peak travel seasons in 2026.
A Journey Through Italy In 2026
This walk offers a unique perspective on Italy that you might miss if you only visit major cities. It’s a chance to experience the country’s beauty at a human pace. I often found myself reflecting on the journey, especially seeing Lily point out wildflowers or Ethan’s excitement at finding a unique stone. These small family moments made the long history of the trail even more personal and memorable. Walking this path in 2026 allows you to connect with a living tradition and discover the authentic soul of Italy.
You’ll find that the pace of the walk encourages connection—both with the landscape and with your travel companions. It’s a journey that stays with you long after you’ve finished, a reminder of the simple beauty and enduring history that Italy holds. I highly recommend it for anyone looking for an authentic Italian experience.