The first time I saw a gondola up close, I was surprised by how lopsided it looked. It wasn’t an illusion. A traditional gondola is built asymmetrically — the left side is about 24 centimeters wider than the right — to counterbalance the weight of a single gondolier standing at the stern. That careful imbalance is just one of hundreds of design choices that make Venetian boats a floating archive of maritime ingenuity.
The 280-Piece Puzzle of a Gondola
Gondolas are the most famous of Venice’s boats, but their construction is far more complex than most visitors realize.
Each gondola is assembled from exactly 280 components, carved from eight different types of wood — oak, elm, lime, fir, cherry, walnut, mahogany, and larch. Every species is chosen for a specific property: flexibility in the hull, resistance to saltwater, or lightness for the oar. The boats are built by hand by master artisans called squeraroli, a trade that has passed through families for centuries.
The prow is fitted with a metal ornament called the ferro. Its six forward-facing prongs represent the six historic sestieri of Venice: Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo, Dorsoduro, San Marco, and Castello. The curved top of the ferro mimics the shape of the Doge’s hat and the bend of the Grand Canal. During the height of the Republic, a sumptuary law made it mandatory to paint gondolas black, putting an end to the flashy decorations that competing noble families had been commissioning.
You can watch gondolas being built and repaired at one of the six remaining ancient squeri. The Squero di San Trovaso in the Dorsoduro district is owned by the Municipality of Venice and can be visited with a specialized guide. It’s a rare chance to see a working boatyard that has operated on the same spot for centuries.
Workhorses of the Lagoon
Beyond the gondola, a whole fleet of working boats keeps Venice alive.
The vaporetto is the cheapest public transportation in the lagoon, and it gets the job done. The name means “little steamer” — a holdover from the steam-engine era — though today’s boats run on gasoline. Vaporetti are operated by a captain and a deckhand who ties up at stops lining the Grand Canal and the surrounding islands of Murano, Lido, and Burano. They are also notoriously common spots for pickpockets, so keep your bags close and your wallet zipped.
Vaporetti are crowded during peak hours and are known pickpocket hotspots. Keep valuables secured and avoid standing near doors during busy routes.
If you need to cross the Grand Canal quickly, take a traghetto. These are simple black ferries rowed by two gondoliers, and they cost a fraction of a full gondola ride. They run between specific points along the canal and are used by locals daily.
For door-to-door service, there are motoscafi — water taxis made from fiberglass, wood, or a combination of both. They are fast, expensive, and direct. My kids would love the speed of a water taxi, but I would want to take them on a bragozzo for a sunset cruise instead.
The sandolo family of boats is the most diverse. These flat-bottomed vessels come in several variations: the Sandolo Buranello (a wider version from Burano used for fishing), the Sandolo da Barcariol (a passenger transport variant with a covered section), and the Sandolo da Regata (a lightweight racing version). Unlike the gondola, sandoli are simpler to build and were historically the everyday boats of ordinary Venetians.
Take a traghetto across the Grand Canal for a quick, cheap gondola-like experience. It costs around €2 and gives you a few minutes of standing-row atmosphere without the tourist markup.
Delivery boats, garbage boats, ambulance boats, and fire brigade boats round out the working fleet. The barca della spazzatura collects trash using built-in deck dumpsters and hydraulic cranes. The ambulanza looks like a motoscafo but is equipped with lifesaving gear and has special docks at hospitals for rapid stretcher offload. Even UPS, DHL, and Amazon use dedicated delivery boats to move packages across the lagoon.
The Sails That Almost Disappeared
The vela al terzo and the bragozzo tell a story of loss and revival in the lagoon.
The vela al terzo is a traditional sail that emerged in the mid-17th century, born from the encounter between the square sail of the Po Valley and the Latin sail of the Mediterranean. Its name translates to “sail at a third” — when fully hoisted, the spar sits two-thirds below the mast and one-third above. The result is a truncated triangle with a boom at the base, designed to pull the center of effort backward for better windward control in the lagoon’s shallow, tidal waters.
Historically, sails in the northern Adriatic were dyed in yellow ochre, brown, black, and red, using natural earth colors that also acted as anti-mold agents. Women sewed and dyed the sails on meadows using sponges, and salt water fixed the colors. Each sail carried geometric background patterns and decorative elements — shoes, wine glasses, seahorses, octopuses, crosses, stars, ladders, eels, lions, and suns — that identified families and served as recognition signals from afar.
Over ten years, Count Alessandro Pericle Ninni and Angelo Marella catalogued and watercoloured over 1,000 vela al terzo sails in Venice and Chioggia.
The collection, along with miniature boat models, was first part of the Correr Museum and later donated to the Museum of Natural Science at its foundation in 1923. Today, the Associazione Vela al Terzo, founded in the early 1980s, teaches young generations to sail these traditional boats. The association runs an annual championship in the lagoon with over 360 sail numbers and a yearly sailing event from Venice to Rovinj along the coast.
The bragozza (or bragozzo) originated in Chioggia in the early 18th century. It was a flat-bottomed fishing and trading vessel with a shallow draft, broad beam, and one or two short masts carrying lugsails. Built from oak, larch, and pine by skilled squeraroli, no two bragozze were ever alike — each was custom-fitted to its owner’s specifications. By the mid-20th century, the bragozza had virtually vanished from regular commercial use, replaced by motor-powered boats. Many were abandoned, dismantled, or converted to stationary platforms.
But a quiet renaissance is underway. Tour operators like Il Bragozzo and Gondolieri Travel offer itineraries ranging from sunset lagoon cruises to food-focused sailing tours. Departure points include Fondamente Nove and Riva degli Schiavoni. Regular lagoon tours (Murano–Burano–Torcello) run around €85–€90 per person aboard traditional bragozze. Sunset and wine cruises range from €95 to €140 per person. Private custom tours start at around €555–€585 for half-day hire of an 8- to 12-seat boat.
One of the most remarkable bragozze still sailing is the Eolo, a 56-foot vessel that served as a working fishing boat until 1967. Mauro Stoppa bought Eolo in 1998 and refurbished it for bespoke luxury expeditions. Three-day voyages explore the remote northern lagoon, hidden fishing valleys, far-flung islets, and salt marshes. Mauro’s philosophy is simple: “You need to take time and respect the rhythms of the lagoon, which is timeless.” The price for a three-day cruise inclusive of excursions, meals, and accommodation starts at around €2,200 per person.
Learning to Row Like a Venetian
You do not have to be a gondolier to get behind an oar.
The association Venice on Board restores traditional boats and offers tours of canals away from the main tourist sites, plus lessons in voga alla veneta — the standing rowing style made famous by gondoliers. The founder, Emiliano Simon, and his team have restored about 12 boats dating from the 1950s to the 1980s, including nimble wooden lagoon boats called topa and enormous gondola-like sandoli.
Lessons start from €50 for the first hour (including a €20 joining fee), then €30 an hour after that. You row standing at the stern, placing the oar in a forcola — a carved oarlock shaped like a treble clef. The vocabulary is just as important as the technique: “Òe!” means “Watch out!” when approaching a blind bend, followed by “A premando!” (on the left) or “A stagando!” (on the right).
Traditional boats tip easily because their flat bottoms are built for shallow lagoon waters. At low tide, the boat sits very low in the water, and you notice details you would miss from a vaporetto — drainpipes trailing down building sides, stone faces rubbed smooth by centuries of water, and algal blooms encrusting the stone walls beneath the tide line.
If rowing sounds too strenuous, Classic Boats Venice offers private, customisable tours of the lagoon on vintage motorboats like the 1930s mahogany runabout Sweet Molly. Half-day guided outings start from €800 for up to eight guests.
Choose between a rowing lesson (Venice on Board), a vintage motorboat tour (Classic Boats Venice), or a traditional bragozzo cruise (Il Bragozzo). Each offers a completely different pace and perspective of the lagoon.
Sunset tours and peak-season slots fill up quickly. Private boats often have free cancellation within 24 hours, but group tours require firm booking. Check the operator’s website for availability.
Operators require a safety briefing before departure. Large bags are not advised due to limited space on traditional boats. Wear non-slip flat shoes and bring a light jacket for sunset tours.
Beyond the Lagoon: Boats on the Italian Coast
The tradition of working boats extends far beyond Venice.
Along the Amalfi Coast and around Capri, the ferry network is the lifeline for both locals and travelers. SNAV operates frequent routes from Naples to Capri, with fast hydrofoils taking around 50 minutes and conventional ferries about 80 minutes. The ferry from Sorrento to Amalfi offers a short, scenic ride along the coast that is worth doing even if you have a car.
On the Amalfi Coast, the connection between the sea and the land is immediate. The same waters that carry ferries and fishing boats also shape the microclimate that produces the region’s famous lemons. If you have ever wondered why Amalfi lemons are so much larger and more fragrant than any other lemon in Italy, the answer starts with the salt spray and the volcanic soil carried by the boats that have worked these waters for centuries.
Read more about Amalfi’s giant lemons and the coastal traditions that protect them.
For those considering a self-drive charter, Italian regulations are clear. No license is needed for engines under 40.8 horsepower within designated areas. Larger vessels require a valid qualification such as the International Certificate of Competence (ICC). Mandatory safety equipment includes certified lifejackets with automatic lights and EPIRBs for offshore trips.
If you are planning to charter a boat, the shoulder seasons of May and October offer lower rates and fewer crowds, especially in the Tuscan Archipelago. The Italian government has also introduced incentives supporting fleet modernization, with grants up to €15,000 for refitting boats.
Before you go to Venice’s Lagoon
Is a gondola ride worth the price?
Gondola tariffs are fixed by the city and are expensive — expect to pay around €80 for a 30-minute ride during the day, with surcharges at night. If you are on a budget, take a traghetto across the Grand Canal instead. It costs a fraction of the price and gives you the same standing-row experience.
What is a squero?
A squero is a traditional Venetian shipyard where boats are built and repaired. Only six ancient squeri remain today. The Squero di San Trovaso in Dorsoduro is the most accessible and can be visited with a specialized guide.
Can I learn to row like a gondolier?
Yes. Venice on Board offers lessons in voga alla veneta starting at €50 for the first hour. You row a mascareta or a sandolo, not a gondola, but the technique is the same. It is harder than it looks — expect to tip over at least once.
What is the best traditional boat for families?
A bragozzo tour is excellent for families because the boats are spacious, stable, and wind-powered. Sunset cruises with wine tastings are popular, but daytime island tours to Murano and Burano are more kid-friendly. Private custom tours start around €555 for half a day.
Are traditional boats really making a comeback?
Yes. Associations like Vela al Terzo and Il Bragozzo are actively restoring old boats and teaching new generations to sail and row them. The revival is driven by a push for sustainable tourism and a desire to preserve Venice’s intangible maritime heritage.
Capturing the Lagoon
If you want to document your experience on the water, a few pieces of gear make a real difference. A compact drone like the DJI Mini 3 gives you a perspective of the bragozzo’s colorful sails against the flat lagoon that you simply cannot get from the water. For capturing the steady rhythm of the voga alla veneta from onboard, a stabilised camera like the Insta360 X5 is brilliant for hands-free footage. Both are compact enough to pack alongside the Samsonite Classic Leather Slim Backpack I use as my personal carry-on.
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A Future Built on Wind and Wood
The bragozza and the vela al terzo are not museum pieces. They are vessels for a different kind of travel — slower, more respectful, and deeply connected to the rhythms of the lagoon. As Venice faces the pressures of mass tourism and rising seas, these traditional boats offer a model for how innovation and tradition can combine. Taking a tour on a bragozzo or learning to row a sandolo is not just a nostalgic activity. It is a small act of commitment to preserving the lagoon’s soul.
Sources and further reading
SHSToday. “Working Boats of Venice.” 🔗
Visit Venezia. “The Squeri and Boats of the Venetian Lagoon.” 🔗
See Venice. “Vela al Terzo: The Traditional Sail in the Venetian Lagoon.” 🔗
Venice Xplorer. “Bragozza: The Traditional Boat of Chioggia.” 🔗
The Guardian. “Venice, Italy: Rowing Boats Lessons for Tourists.” 2023. 🔗
Italy Travel & Life. “Hidden Depths: The Venetian Lagoon.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
The Reason These Lemons Dwarf Every Other Lemon in Italy — Amalfi’s giant lemons are shaped by the same coastal traditions and maritime routes that define Italy’s relationship with the sea.