Turin, Italy, is a city that truly delights the senses, especially when it comes to food. You might not expect it, but this northern Italian gem is considered by many to be the country’s culinary capital. My recent visit, driven entirely by a desire to explore its gastronomic offerings, confirmed it. Unlike their more boisterous southern neighbors, the people of Turin are wonderfully reserved, preferring to keep their city’s incredible food scene a delightful secret, and it really is one of Italy’s finest.
Turin’s Gastronomic Geography
A big part of Turin’s food advantage comes from its location. To the south, you have the famous Piedmont wine region, producing revered wines like the bold and sophisticated Barolo. To the east, forests are abundant with hazelnuts and oaks, perfect for growing the prized white truffle. West, the French border opens up pathways for delightful culinary influences. And to the north, the Alps’ climate and terrain create a fantastic dairy industry, yielding rich milk, cream, and over 50 kinds of cheese.
A Royal History of Flavor
Turin’s history is also deeply intertwined with its food. It was briefly the capital of Italy in the 1860s and served as home to the royal House of Savoy. The court, with their ample resources, enthusiastically embraced new and luxurious foodstuffs, like chocolate, brought back from the New World. This history of royal patronage has left an indelible mark, fostering a culture where eating and drinking well is a cherished tradition.
Cafes steeped in History
Since the late 1700s, Turin’s cafes have been more than just places to grab a coffee; they’ve been gathering spots for intellectuals, artists, poets, and politicians. These cafes are architecturally stunning, often decorated with velvet, marble, brass, and rich wood. Stepping inside feels like stepping back in time. You can still experience this history today. At the gilded Caffe Platti, established in 1875, try a breakfast pastry or their secret “torta Platti” recipe. Or head to Caffe Elena (1889) in Piazza Vittorio for biscuits made from 19th-century recipes, served at marble-topped tables.
The Heart of Coffee Culture
Turin’s connection to coffee is profound. Alfonso Bialetti, the inventor of the Moka pot, was born nearby. Even more significant is Lavazza. Luigi Lavazza founded this global coffee giant here in 1895, starting by creating coffee blends to sell in his small grocery store. His family business has grown into an international empire across four generations. You can explore the Lavazza Museum, across the Dora Riparia river, to see their interactive history, coffee memorabilia, and art, and of course, sample a perfectly made espresso. For a true local experience, join the Torinese drinking their coffee standing at a bar, perhaps a tiny espresso or a “corretto,” coffee with a shot of grappa.
The Decadent Bicerin
A unique Torinese drink you must try is the bicerin. This rich concoction blends coffee, cream, and chocolate, served in small glasses, giving it its name. Many cafes offer it, but a particularly evocative spot is Caffe al Bicerin (1863), right across from the Santuario della Consolata, where the drink was born. It’s a simple yet exquisite layered drink, made with premium cocoa simmered for hours and then layered with coffee and cream. Resist the urge to mix it; each layer is meant to be savored individually.
A Chocolate Lover’s Paradise
Chocolate is another culinary pillar in Turin. You can taste exquisite chocolate at places like A Giordano, under the porticoes of Piazza Carlo Felice, so fine it melts on the tongue. Chocolate was introduced to Italy in 1559 by Duke of Savoy Emmanuel Philibert after his time in the Spanish army. The scarcity of cocoa during the Napoleonic Wars led to the invention of “gianduia,” a paste of chocolate mixed with local hazelnuts, pioneered by Pier Paul Caffarel—the inspiration for Nutella. Gianduia is also used to create gianduiotti, small, boat-shaped chocolates wrapped in foil, and “cremini,” layered chocolate squares. Many of Italy’s oldest chocolatiers began in Turin in the mid-1800s. You can take a chocolate tour or create your own by visiting shops like Baratti & Milano in the Galleria Subalpina, Guido Gobino, Peyrano, and Caffarel.
When I visited with Michael and the kids, we grabbed some gianduiotti for the children to try. Lily, who is usually quite picky, absolutely adored them, and Ethan, even at four, happily munched on a chocolate square as we walked through the elegant piazzas. It was a simple, sweet moment that perfectly captured the joy of discovering Turin’s treats with family.
The Royal Merenda Tradition
Chocolate also plays a starring role in the “merenda,” an afternoon snack or tea tradition introduced by the House of Savoy in the 1700s. Originally, it involved hot chocolate (made with water, not milk) served with biscuits called “bagnati” for dipping. Today’s “merenda reale” can be much more elaborate, often including bicerin, biscuits, meringues, small cakes, and chocolates. For a truly special experience, visit Caffe Reale Torino, located within the Royal Palace. This cafe used to be a fruit storeroom and then a library. Now, you can enjoy your chocolate and pastries surrounded by the Savoy family’s porcelain collection. Another charming spot for merenda is Gelateria Pepino (1884) in Piazza Carignano, with its wooden panels and red velvet benches. Pepino also holds the distinction of being Europe’s oldest gelateria and claims innovation of the ice cream on a stick, the chocolate-covered “pinguino.”
A Taste of Aperitivo Culture
The aperitivo tradition, enjoyed between 6 pm and 9 pm, is a must-do before dinner, designed to stimulate your appetite. It’s derived from the Latin word “aprire,” meaning to open. Turin is deeply connected to Vermouth, a key ingredient in many cocktails, including the Negroni’s precursor, the “Milano-Torino.” Vermouth was invented in 1786 by Antonio Benedetto Carpano at Caffe Elena. You can find Vermouth in various colors and sweetness levels. Turin is home to major brands like Martini Rosso and Cinzano, as well as many artisanal makers. For a tasting experience, try bars like Vermuttino or visit shops such as La Bottega Turin Vermouth. If you have time, a short 20-minute train ride can take you to the Martini factory.
By offering food with drinks, cafes learned to keep patrons longer. This tradition means your aperitivo often comes with a plate of cured meats and cheese, assorted snacks as at Caffe Mulassano, or even a buffet. It’s a fantastic way to sample local flavors before a full meal.
The White Truffle Season
If you visit Piedmont between the first weekend of October and December, you’re in for a treat: white truffle season. The Alba White Truffle Fair marks the start of this highly anticipated period. Imagine sitting down to a pasta dish and having the waiter grate a generous amount of fresh white truffle over it. At Ristorante Circolo dei Lettori, I experienced this with hand-cut veal tartare and local Fassona beef cooked in Barolo. The aroma is earthy and intoxicating, and the truffles are precious, costing around 2000 euros per kilo.
Pasta Perfection and Piedmontese Classics
Chef Stefano Fanti at Circolo dei Lettori recommends trying local pasta dishes. Tajarin, a delicate pasta made with a high proportion of egg yolks, is longer than spaghetti and incredibly rich in flavor. Agnolotti, or the smaller agnolotti di plin, are pasta parcels typically filled with meat like rabbit or pork. Beyond pasta, you should also try veal dressed with tuna sauce (vitello tonnato), “bollito misto” (mixed boiled meats with traditional sauces), game dishes such as hare and venison, and the historic “finanziera,” a stew made from offal and other less common cuts. For dessert, don’t miss risotto al Barolo, panna cotta, or bunet, a chocolate dessert flavored with amaretti biscuits, coffee, and caramel.
Exploring Local Trattorias
For a more authentic and intimate dining experience, seek out “piola”—small, family-run trattorias offering a limited menu of traditional food, often without an English-language menu. Ask a local for their favorite spot. Some highly-rated restaurants for traditional cuisine include Consorzio, Le Tre Galline, Porta di Savona, Ristorante del Cambio, and Scambue.
Contemporary Culinary Innovation
Turin isn’t just about tradition; it’s also a hub for modern culinary exploration. For contemporary interpretations of Italian cuisine, check out places like Condividere, which benefits from consultation with Spanish chef Ferran Adrià, or Piano35.
A Final Farewell
Before you leave Turin, remember to have one last aperitivo at Caffe Torino in Piazza San Carlo. At the entrance, you’ll find a bronze bull, the city’s symbol. Local legend says tapping it with your foot brings good luck and guarantees a return to Turin. It’s a fun tradition to share with family, and Lily loved giving the bull a little tap with her shoe!
Beyond the Plate
Turin offers plenty to see and do between meals. The Museo Egizio is a must-visit. It’s the world’s second-largest museum dedicated to ancient Egyptian culture, housing an incredible collection of artifacts outside of Cairo. You can spend hours exploring its five floors of mummies, massive statues of gods and royalty, sarcophagi, papyrus scrolls, and more. Booking tickets in advance is highly recommended.
Getting There and Staying
The easiest way to reach Turin is to fly into Milan and then take a high-speed train, which is a quick and cost-effective 50-minute journey. For accommodation, the Quadrilatero Romano area in the historic center provides easy walking access to most major sights. You might consider the unique Palazzo Caretto Art apartments or a classic stay at the .
Turin is a city that truly rewards exploration, especially for those who appreciate great food and rich history. I’m already looking forward to my next visit.