Turin, or Torino as it’s known locally, feels like a whispered secret among Italy’s more famous cities. It offers a refined elegance, a touch of French sophistication mixed with Italian warmth, making it a truly special place to visit. Imagine strolling through grand piazzas and discovering historic cafés, all without the overwhelming crowds. I’ve always been drawn to its unique blend of royal history and contemporary cool.
Exploring Royal Turin
Turin’s past as the first capital of a unified Italy is deeply etched into its architecture and atmosphere. The city was once part of the Duchy of Savoy, a region that straddled the borders of Italy, France, and Switzerland, and this historical connection is still evident today.
The Grand Royal Palace
A visit to the Palazzo Reale, the Royal Palace, is like stepping back into a time of opulence. This 17th-century residence of the Savoy dynasty boasts incredibly detailed royal apartments. You can see the stunning salons, adorned with crystal chandeliers and intricate frescoes, and imagine life during its heyday.
One of the most striking parts of the palace is the armoury. It houses a remarkable collection of armour for both knights and their horses from centuries past. The ceiling frescoes here are also a sight to behold.
Outside, the palace gardens are a marvel, designed by the very same landscape architect who worked on the gardens of Versailles. They offer a peaceful escape and a chance to appreciate formal garden design.
Galleria Subalpina and Bookstores
Wandering through Turin’s elegant arcades is an experience in itself. The Galleria Subalpina is a particularly beautiful example, a glass-covered walkway filled with charming shops and cafés.
Inside the Galleria Subalpina, you’ll find the Galleria Gilibert, an antiquarian bookstore that feels like a treasure trove. It’s the perfect place to hunt for unique souvenirs, like vintage posters or rare books on topics ranging from literature to science.
Embracing Turin’s Café Culture
Turin is famous for its historic cafés, which served as gathering places for the nation’s intellectuals and artists after Italy’s unification. Visiting these establishments is not just about having a drink; it’s about experiencing a piece of history.
Sipping Bicerin
A must-try Turin specialty is the bicerin, a layered drink made with espresso, chocolate, and cream. It’s a rich and comforting treat, especially perfect on a cooler day. I remember enjoying one with Lily; she loved seeing the layers being carefully poured.
Historic cafés like Baratti & Milano and Caffè Mulassano are perfect spots to sample this local delicacy. Stepping inside these places feels like entering a different era, with their ornate décor and old-world charm.
Cocktails and Vermouth
Turin is also the birthplace of vermouth, and the city celebrates this heritage with numerous bars offering a wide selection. It’s fascinating to learn about the different types of vermouth and how they are used in classic cocktails.
For a truly local experience, Vermuttino offers a chance to taste rare vermouths. Bars like Bar Cavour, located within the Ristorante Del Cambio, provide a sophisticated setting for enjoying vermouth-based cocktails. Sipping a Negroni here felt like a proper Torinese ritual.
Culinary Delights of Piedmont
The region of Piedmont, with Turin as its capital, is renowned for its exceptional cuisine, influenced by both French and Italian traditions. The area is particularly famous for its prized white truffles and delicious hazelnuts.
Dining in Style
For a truly memorable fine-dining experience, Del Cambio is an institution that opened its doors way back in 1757. While it offers classic Torinese dishes, the young chef behind it brings an innovative touch to the menu.
For a taste of authentic, local pasta, Pastificio Defilippis is the place to go. It started as a laboratory by a chef from the House of Savoy in 1872 and today continues to serve a wide variety of fresh, handmade egg pasta, including the regional specialty, agnolotti.
If you’re looking for something different, Lao offers some of the best Asian food in Italy, with its handmade noodles and dumplings being particular highlights. It’s a refreshing option if you want a break from regional Italian flavors.
Museums and Landmarks
Turin is rich with cultural attractions, offering something for every interest.
The Egyptian Museum
The Museo Egizio, or Egyptian Museum, is a world-class institution, second only to the one in Cairo for its vast collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts. It has recently been reimagined to tell the story of the Nile civilization through its extensive collection of finds.
It’s possible to arrange for exclusive early morning tours of the museum, which would be an incredible way to experience its wonders without the crowds.
Teatro Regio
The Teatro Regio is not just a place for performances but also an architectural marvel. While its history dates back to the 1700s, it was rebuilt in a stunning mid-century modern style after a fire.
Taking a daytime tour to see the interior, designed by Carlo Mollino, is highly recommended. Its unique design is truly unforgettable.
Mole Antonelliana and Cinema Museum
A prominent landmark on Turin’s skyline, the Mole Antonelliana is an iconic building with a distinctive dome and spire. Originally intended to be a synagogue, it was later acquired by the city.
You can ascend to the top for panoramic views of Turin and the surrounding region. Inside, the building houses the National Museum of Cinema, offering a fascinating journey through the history of film.
Castello di Rivoli
A short drive from Turin is the town of Rivoli, home to the Castello di Rivoli. This once-dilapidated castle has been transformed into a leading modern art museum. It’s a place where stunning contemporary art meets remarkable historical architecture.
Shopping in Turin
Turin offers a unique shopping experience, from historic pharmacies to specialty food shops.
Antica Farmacia Bosio
The Antica Farmacia Bosio has been operating since the 1700s. It’s worth admiring its historic facade and perhaps picking up some Italian cosmetics and beauty products, which are often both effective and well-priced.
Latteria Bera
This historic dairy, known as the ‘sisters’ dairy’ since 1918, is a delightful place to experience. They make incredible whipped cream right before your eyes, which is a treat to enjoy while walking. You can also find a selection of cheeses, cured meats, chocolates, and truffles.
Exploring Turin’s Neighborhoods
Turin is comprised of distinct neighborhoods, each offering its own flavor.
Centro Storico
The historic center, or Centro Storico, is the heart of Turin. It’s where you’ll find many of the main attractions like the Royal Palace and the Egyptian Museum, as well as elegant shopping arcades and historic cafés.
Vanchiglia
Located northeast of the city center, Vanchiglia is a hip district situated between the Po and Dora Riparia rivers. It’s a great area to explore for its local atmosphere and proximity to the main sights.
San Salvario
South of the historic center, San Salvario is a lively neighborhood known for Parco del Valentino and the Medieval Village. It’s a popular spot for students, thanks to the Polytechnic University’s architecture faculty, and has a vibrant nightlife scene.
Best Times to Visit
Turin has its own special charm throughout the year.
Winter Visits
I find Turin particularly delightful in the winter months. The off-season means fewer tourists, and it’s the ideal time to savor a bicerin in one of the cozy historic cafés.
Spring and Fall
Spring and fall are also wonderful times to visit Turin and the surrounding Piedmont region. Fall, in particular, is a treat for food lovers, with grape harvests happening in the Barolo and Barbaresco wine regions and Alba hosting its famous White Truffle Fair.
Getting To and Around Turin
Turin is accessible and easy to navigate.
Travel to Turin
Torino-Caselle Airport (TRN) handles European flights. For those coming from further afield, Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP) is about 90 minutes away. Turin is also well-connected by train to other Italian cities.
Getting Around the City
Turin’s historic center is quite flat, making it very walkable and a great city for cycling. The public transport system, operated by GTT, includes metro, trams, and buses. Taxi services are also readily available.
I’m already looking forward to another trip to Turin in 2026, perhaps with Michael and the kids to explore more of its sophisticated charm.