Ascona sits on the northern edge of Lake Maggiore, a place where the mountains of Switzerland meet the Italian lakes. It’s a town that feels quite special, almost like a secret place you’ve stumbled upon. The air here is fresh, and the pace of life is wonderfully relaxed. It’s easy to see why it’s compared to Como, but Ascona offers a different kind of beauty, more understated and perhaps more peaceful, especially when you consider how busy Como can get.
A Gentle Lakeside Town
Ascona is often described as a jewel, and it’s easy to understand why. Imagine palm trees lining a waterfront promenade, with colorful cafes that invite you to sit and watch the boats glide by on the lake. The town itself is a maze of cobbled streets, full of buildings painted in soft pastel shades that glow in the sunlight. Even though it’s close to the Italian border, it has a Swiss feel, but with a definite Mediterranean vibe thrown in. It’s the kind of place where you can wander without feeling rushed, and it’s not yet overrun by massive crowds, even during peak season.
Comparing Ascona and Como
I first visited Ascona years ago while I was working in Lugano, a city not too far away. Back then, I was focused on exploring other nearby villages, and Ascona, the ‘jewel of Lake Maggiore,’ somehow slipped through my fingers. Now, seeing it again, the difference between Ascona and its famous Italian neighbour, Como, is striking. Como has become a massive tourist destination, drawing millions of visitors each year, to the point where local calls for tourist taxes are quite common. Ascona, on the other hand, is a much smaller affair. Estimates suggest it sees far fewer visitors, even in its busiest months. The town is actively looking to attract more tourists, but they’re hoping for a specific kind of visitor – those who appreciate its authenticity and quiet charm, rather than those looking for a loud, busy resort experience. The local hotel manager mentioned that while they can welcome more guests, the town’s infrastructure is best suited for smaller groups, as access and parking can be tricky for larger vehicles. It’s a delicate balance they’re trying to maintain.
Exploring Ascona’s Delights
While Ascona might not be the cheapest place to visit, with prices for a pint of beer around £8 and main courses at mid-range restaurants often between £18 and £36, there are plenty of ways to enjoy it without spending a fortune. Simply walking around is a treat in itself. You can spend hours strolling along the lakeside promenade, taking in the views, and then climb up into the Old Town, which has a history stretching back to medieval and Renaissance times. During the summer, there’s a daily artisan market where you can often find free samples of local crafts and delicacies. The narrow alleyways are fun to explore, even if it’s just for window shopping at the stylish boutiques. For a small treat, I’d recommend grabbing some cantucci almond cookies from Pasticceria Pinotti for a few pounds, or perhaps a scoop of gelato from one of the little shops dotted around. If you fancy a dip, there’s a lido and a free public beach at the edge of town, where the water is so clear you can see tiny fish swimming around your feet. It’s a wonderfully refreshing and simple pleasure.
Monte Verità A Hill of Serenity
For incredible views without any cost, you absolutely must make your way up Monte Verità, a hill that towers above the town. It’s known as the ‘Hill of Truth’ and has a fascinating history as a sanctuary for spiritualists and alternative communities. It’s a relatively easy 15-minute walk from the center of town, and the panoramic views of the lake, especially at sunset, are simply breathtaking. If you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, there’s a 6km trail that leads to prehistoric Castelliere ruins. The climb is more challenging, but the reward is a spectacular vista that stretches all the way into Italy. It’s moments like these, high above the lake, that make you truly appreciate the natural beauty of the Ticino region. I remember sitting there with Michael, just soaking in the quiet and the colours spreading across the sky. Even Ethan, who usually wants to be running around, was a bit more still, mesmerized by the view.
Jazz in the Summer
Even though Ascona is small, it hosts one of the biggest jazz festivals in Europe each summer. It’s called Jazz Ascona and it celebrates the music of New Orleans, which is the town’s sister city. The festival runs for about ten days, usually in late June and early July, and features over 200 free concerts. The town comes alive with jazz, blues, swing, and gospel music filling the air. If you plan to visit during the festival, be aware that hotel prices in and around Ascona skyrocket. My tip is to book accommodation across the border in Italian towns like Verbania or Stresa, which are easily accessible and generally more affordable.
Where to Rest Your Head
When it comes to accommodation, Ascona offers a range of options. For a more budget-friendly choice right in the heart of the Old Town, just a short walk from the lake, Vista Lakefront Boutique is a good option. You can find single rooms starting around £116 and doubles from £170, with breakfast included. If you’re looking for ultimate luxury, the Roc is the only five-star hotel directly on the shores of Lake Maggiore. It’s a stunning property with impeccable service, and the double rooms start from about £475, including a fantastic breakfast. It’s definitely a splurge, but the experience is worth it.
Day Trips Worth Taking
One excursion that’s absolutely worth the expense is a boat trip to the tiny Brissago Islands. The larger of the two islands, Isola Grande, is home to an impressive botanical garden featuring 1,700 exotic plant species. You can see everything from lotus blossoms to eucalyptus trees thriving there. In its heyday, the island attracted artists and writers, including the famous Irish writer James Joyce. After exploring the gardens, you can enjoy a coffee or an Aperol Spritz on the terrace of Villa Emden, a beautiful historic building on the island that now houses a hotel, cafe, and restaurant. A direct ferry takes about 20 minutes each way, costing around £20 for the round trip, plus a £9 entry fee for the islands. I’d suggest dedicating at least three hours to truly soak it all in. Lily loved spotting all the different flowers and plants; she even tried to sketch a few in her little notebook.
Exploring Further with Swiss Transport
Switzerland’s public transport system is truly world-class, making it incredibly easy to hop between towns and even visit cities further afield. From Ascona, a short 10-minute drive takes you to Locarno. This is where you can catch the Centovalli Railway, a scenic route that winds through a beautiful, unspoiled valley. Trains from Locarno connect you easily to Lugano and even Zurich, with smooth onward connections to Geneva and Bern. The system is so efficient that often you don’t even need to change platforms for intercity travel. If you plan on doing a lot of travelling by train and bus, investing in a Swiss Travel Pass can be a good idea. While it might seem pricey at first, it offers unlimited journeys on public transport and free entry to over 500 museums, plus some mountain excursions. Passes are available for three to 15 days, with the shortest one costing around £220.
Getting to Ascona from the UK
Reaching Ascona from the UK is surprisingly straightforward. The most cost-effective way is to fly into Milan Malpensa Airport in Italy. Many major UK airports, including London Gatwick, Stansted, and City, as well as Manchester, Edinburgh, and Birmingham, have direct flights. From Milan Malpensa Terminal 1, you can catch a train directly to Lugano, which runs hourly across the border. Once in Lugano, you can change trains for Locarno. The trains to Locarno typically arrive on the same platform as the trains from Milan, making the transfer simple. From the train station in Locarno, it’s just a short 10-minute taxi ride to Ascona.
Suggested Itinerary
Day 1
Start your day by exploring the lakeside promenade in Ascona. If it’s summer, you’ll find a daily market with stalls selling everything from handmade jewellery to local soaps. Later, take a ferry to the Brissago Islands. Plan for about two hours to wander through the botanical gardens and then enjoy a meal or a drink on the terrace of Villa Emden. Spend the afternoon relaxing by the water. You can swim at the public beach or at the lido. For a more exclusive experience, consider Crusoe, a private beach area with comfortable loungers and hammocks. For dinner, I’d recommend Restaurant Eden Roc, followed by a cocktail in the hotel’s piano bar where live music often plays during the summer months.
Day 2
Rent e-bikes and explore the area. A pleasant route for beginners is the path leading to Locarno, a town often called Switzerland’s ‘film town’. Stop for coffee in Locarno at a place like Muyu before heading back to Ascona. Treat yourself to some delicious pastries from Pasticceria Pinotti, famous for its panettone. In the late afternoon, hike up to the Castelliere Ruins on Monte Verità for sunset. It’s a moderate walk, just over four miles, and the views are spectacular. For a special dinner, consider Locanda Barbarossa at Hotel Castello del Sole, which has recently earned its first Michelin star. End your evening with a glass of wine at Sea Lounge in the Seven Hotel, located right on the waterfront.
Ascona truly offers a relaxed and beautiful escape, combining natural scenery with a touch of sophisticated charm. It’s a place that invites you to slow down and savor the moments.