I always recommend Lake Maggiore for a more relaxed Italian lakeside experience. It’s Italy’s second-largest lake, nestled between the regions of Lombardy and Piedmont, and even reaches into Switzerland. Unlike its more famous neighbor, Lake Como, Maggiore offers a laid-back vibe with charming small towns, beautiful gardens, and plenty of activities for those who enjoy hiking, biking, and boating.
Exploring the Borromean Islands
A visit to Lake Maggiore wouldn’t be complete without exploring the Borromean Islands, a short ferry ride from Stresa. These islands are steeped in history thanks to the influential Borromeo family.
Isola Bella is a visual feast. The 17th-century Palazzo Borromeo houses impressive artworks. Surrounding the palace are stunning terraced gardens, with ten levels cascading down towards the lake. I remember watching the white peacocks wander freely through these meticulously kept gardens, a sight my daughter, Lily, found absolutely captivating. The grottoes, adorned with shells and mirrors, add another layer of wonder.
When planning your island visit, consider that the ferry services operate on a schedule. I learned that it’s best to check the latest timetable, especially if you plan to visit more than one island in a single day. Arriving early can help you avoid the largest crowds, especially during peak season.
The Ristorante Italia on one of the islands offers a charming spot for lunch. It provides a complimentary taxi boat service, which is a convenient perk.
A Swiss Detour
The unique position of Lake Maggiore, straddling both Italy and Switzerland, makes for an exciting day trip. The Lago Maggiore Express offers an adventurous way to experience this cross-border charm by combining boat and narrow-gauge rail travel.
Boats depart from various Italian towns along the lake and head north to Locarno in Switzerland. From Locarno, a scenic train ride winds through the mountains to Domodossola. From there, you can catch a regular train back to your starting point on the Italian side. This journey showcases dramatic mountain scenery and charming towns on both sides of the border.
I’d suggest packing layers for this trip, as the altitude changes can bring cooler temperatures. It’s a full-day experience, so starting early is key to enjoying all the stops without feeling rushed.
Charming Lakeside Towns
Lake Maggiore is dotted with delightful towns, each offering its own distinct character. Stresa is often the first stop for many visitors due to its excellent facilities and proximity to the Borromean Islands.
Cannobio, on the other hand, is frequently described as one of the prettiest towns. Its pastel-colored houses and lovely promenade along the lake are incredibly picturesque. Wandering through its narrow cobblestone streets feels like stepping back in time. It’s a wonderful place to find a lakeside cafe and just soak in the atmosphere, perhaps with a refreshing drink.
Laveno, on the eastern side of the lake, is a bit less frequented but offers a similar beautiful landscape with a potentially more relaxed pace and lower accommodation costs. For me, exploring these smaller, less-trafficked areas often reveals the most authentic local experiences.
Gardens and Views
The lake’s mild climate creates an ideal environment for stunning botanical gardens. Villa Taranto is a standout, featuring an impressive array of colorful flora that changes throughout the seasons.
I particularly enjoyed the diverse landscapes within Villa Taranto, from its terraces and ponds to its wooded areas. It’s a perfect spot for a leisurely afternoon stroll. They also have a small bistro on-site, which is convenient for a light lunch amidst the greenery. Remember that these gardens close during the winter months.
For breathtaking panoramic views, the Laveno cable car is a must. It ascends Mount Sasso del Ferro, offering spectacular vistas of the Alps, the lake, and the towns below. The cable car itself, carrying passengers two at a time in open baskets, is quite an experience. At the summit, a restaurant provides a place to refuel while enjoying the scenery.
Dining by the Lake
Italian food is a highlight of any visit, and Lake Maggiore offers many opportunities to savor local flavors.
A true local specialty is alborelle fritte, tiny fried lake fish. I recommend trying them at a casual spot like Mirafiori & La Terrazza in Feriolo, where you can enjoy them fresh by the water. Don’t be put off by eating them whole; the crispiness is part of the experience.
In Stresa, Hostaria Vita is a great choice for traditional pasta and seafood dishes. Sitting in the piazza there, especially under the canopy of trees, is wonderful for both dining and people-watching. Il Vicoletto in Stresa is another favorite, known for its homemade pasta and more upscale main courses, offering a cozy setting off a quiet street.
Where to Stay
Lake Maggiore offers a range of accommodation options to suit different preferences and budgets.
Hotel Villa e Palazzo Aminta is a luxurious five-star option with stunning lake views. The service here is often praised for its effortless polish. I appreciated the peaceful atmosphere around the lakeside pool, offering a perfect escape.
For a family-run, comfortable option, Hotel La Palma is highly regarded. It features both a lake-level infinity pool and a rooftop pool, providing great value, especially during busy periods.
The Grand Hotel des Iles Borromées holds a significant place in the lake’s history and offers opulent suites and extensive park grounds, making it suitable for families. There’s even a special suite where Ernest Hemingway once stayed.
On the Swiss side, [link_460:Hotel Eden] Roc Ascona provides a modern waterfront retreat with an extensive spa and a two-Michelin-starred restaurant.
Getting There and Around
Milan Malpensa Airport is the closest major airport for reaching Lake Maggiore. From there, it’s less than an hour’s drive to Stresa, the primary town on the lake.
Direct trains from Milano Centrale also connect to Stresa and other towns along the western shore, taking just over an hour. For the eastern side of the lake, driving or changing trains in Gallarate is necessary.
Once you arrive, a rental car is useful for exploring smaller towns or higher elevations. However, if you base yourself in towns like Stresa, you can easily navigate many lake destinations using the regular ferry services operated by Navigazione Laghi.
When to Visit
For the warmest weather and ideal conditions for boating and swimming, July and August are the busiest months. To avoid the largest crowds while still enjoying pleasant weather, consider visiting in mid-September into October. This time is also excellent for hiking.
The low season runs from November to mid-March. During this period, many lakeside establishments and some attractions close for the winter. Ferry services continue to operate but with a reduced schedule.
I find that visiting during the shoulder seasons, like late spring or early autumn, offers a wonderful balance of good weather and fewer crowds, allowing for a more relaxed exploration.
So, when planning your Italian adventure, consider the tranquil beauty of Lake Maggiore for a truly rejuvenating escape.