The Amalfi Coast is undeniably stunning, but if you’re yearning for an Italian island escape that feels a bit more grounded, I recently discovered Ischia. It’s often overshadowed by its glitzy neighbor, Capri, but for those who appreciate volcanic landscapes, incredible food, and a more relaxed pace, Ischia is a true gem. It’s the kind of place where Neapolitans themselves vacation, and after visiting, I can see why they keep it a bit of a secret.
A Quieter Mediterranean Charm
Stepping onto Ischia felt like stepping back in time, in the best possible way. While Capri buzzed with crowds seeking the next Instagram shot, Ischia offered a more authentic slice of Italian life. You can still find gorgeous beaches, stunning volcanic scenery, and delicious aperitivo, but without the overwhelming throngs. It’s a place that invites you to slow down and truly soak in the surroundings.
Where to Stay
Waterfront Elegance
For a truly luxurious stay with easy access to the sea, the Regina Isabella in Lacco Ameno is a standout. It’s a historic hotel, built in 1956, and you can feel that rich heritage in every detail. Think hand-painted tiles, Murano glass chandeliers, and furnishings that whisper stories of its past guests, like Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton.
The resort boasts two sandy beaches and jetties perfect for lounging. One of the highlights for me, especially after a long day of exploring with the kids, was the outdoor heated saltwater pool. And the spa? It’s a haven, with thermal pools and a range of treatments that I’d love to revisit when Michael and I can steal away for a proper couples’ retreat.
Each evening, we enjoyed aperitivo in the terrace garden, sipping local biancolella wine and nibbling on snacks. It’s the perfect preamble to dinner at their gourmet restaurant, Indaco. For Lily and Ethan, the gentle sea access was a dream, allowing them to splash safely while Michael and I relaxed nearby.
Secluded Luxury
If you prefer a more secluded, elevated experience, the Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa is exceptional. Tucked away in the green hills and overlooking a breathtaking bay, this former 16th-century watchtower has been transformed into an elite retreat.
The spa here is particularly renowned, featuring high-end European beauty brands and divine thermal treatments. Picture yourself unwinding by the pool or the sea, surrounded by the island’s natural beauty. The rooms are airy and decorated with a calming Mediterranean palette, and the views from the restaurants, like La Baia, are simply spectacular.
This felt like the place for a truly indulgent escape, perhaps for a special anniversary trip years down the line. For this visit with the children, the accessibility and direct beach access of Regina Isabella felt more practical, but the Mezzatorre is definitely on my list for future quieter getaways.
A Feast for the Taste Buds
Island Flavors
Ischia truly shines when it comes to food. It’s a place where fresh, local ingredients take center stage, and the flavors are simply unforgettable. I’d heard from friends that the pizza here is exceptional, and Lisola certainly lived up to the hype.
Beyond their classic and signature pizzas, they serve incredible local dishes like Ischian-style rabbit, which I tried and thoroughly enjoyed. The setting also offers some of the most beautiful sunset views on the island, making for a perfect evening meal.
Seaside Dining
For a romantic dinner, Le Stufe Osteria & Cucina, set in the hills of Lacco Ameno, offers fantastic food and a warm, inviting atmosphere. Dining on their candle-lit terrace, enjoying tuna tartare and fresh pasta, was a highlight. The sound of the waves and the gentle evening breeze made it magical.
In the picturesque village of Sant’Angelo, Ristorante Deus Neptunus Ischia continues its long-standing tradition of delicious seafood. Its location, perched on the rocks overlooking the sea, feels almost unreal. For a truly unique experience, Ristorante i Pirati, accessible only by boat, is a must-visit. Their fresh fish and spaghetti alle vongole are divine, and you’ll see their signature house wine with peaches served in pitchers at almost every table.
We also made a trek to Taverna Pietro Paolo Detto Stalino for their mussels and spaghetti alla pomodoro. It’s a more homestyle eatery, and the effort to get there was rewarded tenfold by the incredible flavors. Finishing with their zeppole was the perfect end to the meal; the children couldn’t get enough of them!
Beachside Bites and Sweet Treats
Many of Ischia’s golden beaches are lined with casual restaurants and snack bars. Da Nicola is a great spot for a quick pizza lunch between beach activities. Their focaccia bruschetta, topped with fresh tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil, is a revelation – simple yet utterly delicious.
And of course, no summer in Italy is complete without gelato! Gasparotto Gelato serves some of the most incredible artisanal, house-made gelato. Flavors change, but the dark chocolate with lemon zest and the tiramisu were absolute standouts that the whole family adored. Lily declared it the best vacation dessert ever.
What to Do on Ischia
Exploring the Communes
Ischia is divided into six communes, each offering its own unique charm. Sant’Angelo is postcard-perfect with its whitewashed buildings. Ischia Porto is the lively commercial hub, while historic Ischia Ponte is home to the magnificent Aragonese Castle.
Forio is known for its beautiful beaches and charming old town. Lacco Ameno, where we stayed, is home to lovely sandy shores, souvenir shops filled with ceramics, and the iconic “Il Fungo” or mushroom rock. Serrara Fontana offers a more inland adventure, with opportunities to explore the island’s higher elevations.
Beach Bliss and Thermal Springs
Ischia is blessed with numerous beaches, and the majority have accessible restaurants and snack bars where you can rent chairs and umbrellas. Spiaggia dei Maronti and Spiaggia di San Montano are perennial favorites, offering plenty of space and activities for families. If you’re looking for something a bit more exclusive, Giardino Eden Beach Club provides a stylish rocky perch with palapas and direct access to the clear, emerald waters.
However, Ischia is perhaps most famous for its thermal waters. It’s a wellness destination that has been cherished by Italians for decades. You’ll find natural springs dotted all over the island, alongside upscale hotel spas (often open to non-guests with advance booking) and dedicated thermal parks.
Poseidon Therme Park is a sprawling oasis with over 20 thermal and seawater pools, hydrotherapy facilities, and even a steam grotto. It also has direct access to Spiaggia di Citara, making it easy to combine relaxation with a day at the beach. It’s a fantastic place to spend the day with kids, as they have an endless variety of pools to explore. Ethan was particularly fascinated by the steam grotto.
For a more adults-focused, contemporary wellness experience, Negombo offers a variety of thermal and marine pools, including grottos and cascading jets. It’s a refined environment that can leave you feeling completely rejuvenated.
Gardens and Hiking Adventures
A visit to the Giardini la Mortella is a must for any garden lover. These stunning private gardens, created by Susana Walton, are a breathtaking collection of tropical and Mediterranean plants, set against the dramatic backdrop of volcanic peaks. It’s a peaceful oasis perfect for a leisurely stroll.
The island’s lush vegetation and volcanic terrain also make it ideal for hiking. Whether you’re looking for an easy trek with rewarding views or a more challenging climb, Ischia has options. The ultimate goal for many hikers is to summit Mount Epomeo, the island’s highest peak.
Exploring by Sea
While there’s plenty to discover on land, seeing Ischia from the water is an experience not to be missed. Renting a boat offers a unique perspective, allowing you to explore hidden coves, swim in secluded bays, and visit seaside restaurants that are inaccessible by road. Companies like Ascanio Charter offer a range of vessels, from traditional Gozzos to speedboats. A private boat tour was a highlight for the whole family; charting our own course allowed us to swim wherever we found an inviting patch of turquoise water.
Getting To and Around Ischia
Island Arrival
Since Ischia is an island without an airport, the primary way to arrive is by sea from Naples. Hydrofoils offer a swift journey to Ischia Porto, taking about 55 minutes. During peak season, you can also find ferries connecting to other popular destinations like Capri, Amalfi, and Sorrento.
For a more seamless start to your vacation, especially with young children, arranging a private transfer directly from your accommodation in Naples can be a wonderful option. It allows you to bypass the busy ports and start enjoying your island time that much sooner.
Navigating the Island
To fully explore Ischia’s diverse communes and hidden beaches, renting a car or a Vespa is highly recommended. A car is ideal if you’re traveling with family, allowing you to pack beach gear and navigate with ease. It’s also a good choice if you plan on visiting multiple thermal parks or taking day trips further afield.
A Vespa offers that quintessential carefree Italian vacation vibe, perfect for shorter trips and soaking in the coastal breeze. However, if your plans are more focused around your hotel and perhaps a couple of organized excursions, you might find that your hotel can arrange transportation, and taxis are readily available.
For our family trip in 2026, we opted for a rental car to give us the flexibility to explore at our own pace, pack snacks and beach toys, and make spontaneous stops without hassle. It made getting back and forth from the thermal parks with tired, happy kids so much simpler.
Ischia truly offers a magical blend of relaxation, natural beauty, and authentic Italian culture. It’s the perfect destination for those seeking a memorable escape that feels both refined and wonderfully down-to-earth.