My partner and I arrived in Orta, an Italian town that felt like stepping onto a quiet movie set. The buildings were painted in soft colours, with closed shops and shadowy archways. Even the town hall’s balcony seemed to wait for someone to sing. We wondered if we’d come at the wrong time because the piazza was so empty.
A Taste of Piedmont
Then, a single shopkeeper began setting up his sign. It read “Pan & Vino,” which turned out to be an understatement. This little deli wasn’t just selling bread and wine; it was a feast. They had a huge selection of rich red wines from the Piedmont region, like Barolo and Barbaresco. We also found fresh, crusty bread, including grissini, which are a local specialty. When we visited in the autumn, they were serving seasonal white truffles shaved over creamy polenta. It was a delightful surprise.
The manager was patient with my clumsy attempts at Italian. Perhaps it was because we were the first customers after a rain shower. It was a welcome change from the rushed service I’d experienced in busier cities. Here, I had time to gather my thoughts and try out my phrases. From our table outside, we could see the lake shimmering through stone arches, a Romanesque belltower, and the distant Alps. This is what Orta felt like – all the best parts of Italy without the crowds.
Where Is Orta San Giulio
Orta is located in the Piedmont region of northern Italy. It’s about 50 miles west of the more famous Lake Como and around an hour’s drive from Milan Malpensa Airport. It’s a place for those who enjoy a slower pace and a touch of romance.
Who Will Love Orta
This destination is perfect for people who want to relax and take their time. It’s also ideal for couples and anyone who appreciates beautiful scenery and a peaceful atmosphere. If you enjoy quiet exploration and genuine local experiences, you’ll feel right at home here.
Insider Tips for Your Visit
For an unforgettable treat, head to the village of Pella, located across the lake from Orta San Giulio. There, you’ll find incredible gelato at Antica Torre. You can find them online at gelateriaanticatorre.com.
Comparing the Italian Lakes
When people think of Italian lakes, a few big names usually come to mind: Garda, Maggiore, and Como. Lake Como, just 50 miles east of Orta, is particularly famous and a favourite of celebrities. Many high-profile figures have homes or are linked to properties there. Orta, on the other hand, is a popular spot for people from Milan to buy holiday homes, but it remains relatively unknown internationally. Despite its stunning views and UNESCO World Heritage site, locals affectionately call it ‘La Cenerentola’ – Cinderella.
They say it’s prettier and less spoiled than its famous older sisters, happy to remain in their shadow to avoid unwanted attention. This quiet charm is precisely what makes Orta so special.
Exploring Orta San Giulio Town
The town of Orta San Giulio itself is traffic-free and cobblestoned. It juts out into the lake from the eastern shore, almost like a thumb. Instead of grand celebrity villas, you’ll find a sense of faded elegance in its baroque palaces, remnants of a time when writers like Byron and Balzac visited.
Today, some of the most stylish places to stay are just outside the main town. To the north, in the village of Pettenasco, you’ll find Laqua by the Lake. This modern resort sits right on the shore and comes alive in the summer with a beach club and water sports equipment. Doubles here start from around £305.
Finding Heritage and Views
For a blend of history and spectacular views, La Darbia is a wonderful choice. This hilltop retreat is surrounded by old chestnut and hornbeam trees. Architects and brothers Gian Carlo and Matteo Primatesta have carefully restored a medieval stone tower and ancient vineyards, turning an abandoned farming hamlet into a boutique aparthotel with 20 suites.
The interior design is what Italians call ‘sobrio’ – simple, understated, and tasteful. There’s a wine cellar for tastings, a saltwater infinity pool, and a yoga studio. The highlight for many is the intimate, candlelit restaurant, La Cucina.
Dining Delights
While the grand Villa Crespi hotel nearby boasts three Michelin stars, La Cucina offers a sophisticated dining experience without any pretension. Chef Matteo Monfrinotti creates magic with simple ingredients, like barbecued red peppers and lake fish. They also serve forest-foraged delicacies and even transform butter into something spectacular, whipped and served with warm sourdough.
As you dine, the lights of Orta twinkle below, resembling a glass slipper touching the dark water. It’s a truly magical setting for a meal.
Waking to Alpine Beauty
The next morning, the rain clouds from the previous day had cleared. We were greeted by the breathtaking sight of Monte Rosa, the second-highest peak in the Alps, its snowy facets piercing the sky. In the center of the lake, the tiny island of Isola San Giulio seemed to float like a mirage, its terracotta roofs and stone towers creating a fairytale image.
Below us, La Darbia’s gardens cascaded down towards the island, with the Sacro Monte di Orta, a tree-covered hill, rising nearby. Even though it looked smaller from our viewpoint, the Sacro Monte is a significant site.
Exploring the Sacred Mountain
We decided to cycle over to the Sacro Monte di Orta, which is a UNESCO-listed pilgrimage trail. Thankfully, the hotel had e-bikes, making the climb up the wooded slopes much easier! The trail leads you through parkland dotted with twenty chapels. Each one tells a part of the life story of St. Francis of Assisi.
Built over two centuries, starting in 1591, the chapels showcase a fascinating mix of artistic styles and mediums. You’ll find everything from slightly eerie waxwork scenes to beautifully executed Renaissance frescoes that create optical illusions.
We often had the place almost entirely to ourselves, making the experience feel even more special. It allowed us to appreciate the art and the serene atmosphere at our own pace.
The Peaceful Island of San Giulio
Isola San Giulio, a small island in the middle of the lake, promises even more tranquility. It’s home to a working Benedictine monastery and a 4th-century basilica. A public boat from Orta’s town square takes you across in about five minutes for a small fee.
Once on the island, you can follow a meditation path called the “Way of Silence.” The instructions encourage visitors to keep phones away and voices hushed, creating a serene environment. Signs along the path offer thoughtful aphorisms about mindfulness and inner peace. Some are simple reminders to listen to nature, while others encourage self-acceptance.
This island is truly the crown jewel of Lake Orta, a peaceful sanctuary that embodies the magic of the region. It’s a place where you can truly disconnect and reflect.
The Enduring Charm of Lake Orta
As we walked through the quiet, cobbled streets, I couldn’t help but wonder why more people don’t visit Lake Orta compared to its more famous neighbours. It offers so much beauty and peace without the overwhelming crowds.
There’s a possibility that crowds might increase in the future. With measures like a proposed day-tripper tax being considered for busier lakes, places like Orta could become more popular as alternative destinations. For now, though, this unspoilt lake remains a true fairytale escape. Let’s hope its quiet magic can last.
I hope you get the chance to experience the quiet beauty of Lake Orta for yourself soon.