Embarking on an overnight train journey through Europe can be a romantic notion, promising to maximize daylight hours for exploration. My own experience traveling from Austria to Italy on an overnight train in October 2022 was certainly an adventure, but one that came with a few eye-opening surprises that reshaped my expectations for this mode of travel.
Overnight Train to Italy
The allure of an overnight train is undoubtedly strong when you’re trying to pack multiple countries into a limited itinerary. The idea is to sleep while you travel, waking up refreshed in a new city ready to dive into your day. This was my thinking when I planned an 11-hour journey from Vienna, Austria, to Venice, Italy. Sharing a sleeper cabin also seemed like a budget-friendly way to cover ground, and with a ticket costing around $84, it felt like a smart move.
My chosen route was with OBB Nightjet, a service that connects over 25 cities across Austria, Italy, France, and the Netherlands. These trains can reach speeds of up to 143 mph, offering a blend of speed and overnight convenience. Nightjet trains provide different options, from standard seating carriages to sleeper cars with private cabins and shared bunks. I opted for a bunk in a shared cabin, which included a basic breakfast, hoping to wake up ready to explore the canals of Venice.
Waiting for the Journey
Arriving at Vienna’s Wien Meidling station, I aimed to be there well in advance of my 9:35 p.m. train. The station was surprisingly crowded, with very few seats available in the general waiting areas. It was a bit overwhelming, and I started to question how comfortable the wait would be.
Fortunately, I noticed a lounge area for OBB passengers. While it’s complimentary for first-class daytime travelers, others can access it for about $10, which I happily paid. Stepping into the lounge was a stark contrast to the bustling station outside. It was remarkably empty, and I found myself the only person there. The lounge offered a comfortable seating area with tables and complimentary refreshments like coffee, nuts, and seeds. While the selection wasn’t extensive compared to some other lounges I’ve experienced, it was more than enough for a quiet wait before boarding.
Navigating the Platforms
As boarding time approached, I headed to the platform about 20 minutes before departure. A moment of panic struck when I saw my train listed as heading to Zurich on the departure board. I double-checked my booking, and thankfully, I hadn’t made a mistake. An information desk attendant explained that these trains often split, with different carriages heading to various destinations. This meant I needed to board the specific car assigned to my ticket to ensure I reached Venice.
When the train arrived, the sheer number of carriages and the speed at which passengers were boarding meant I didn’t have time to verify the car number before stepping aboard. I ended up in the closest car and had to ask an attendant to direct me to my correct car and cabin. It was a slightly chaotic start, but the attendant was helpful.
A Shared Cabin Experience
I knew sleeper cabins could be compact, but the reality of my shared six-person cabin was still a shock. OBB Nightjet describes these cabins as being about 74 square feet. While that sounds reasonable on paper, seeing it in person highlighted just how small it truly was. When I first entered, one person was already settled in. Within an hour, two more travelers arrived, filling the cabin further.
The dynamics within the cabin were minimal; we acknowledged each other with polite nods but mostly kept to ourselves, either on devices or trying to sleep. Even with just one other person sharing the space, it felt quite cramped. With four of us, and luggage piled around, the lack of personal space became very apparent. I was relieved we weren’t booked to full capacity, as I couldn’t imagine adding two more people into that already tight environment.
The Lack of Privacy
One of my biggest expectations for a sleeper cabin was some form of individual privacy, particularly at the bunk level. I had envisioned curtains or some barrier for each bed. However, the reality was that each bunk was completely exposed. This was a significant discomfort for me, as I prefer to change in private. When one fellow traveler changed their clothes openly in the cabin, I felt even more awkward and opted to use the shared bathroom at the end of the car for my own changing and personal needs.
Navigating the Cabin Door
Another unexpected challenge arose with the cabin door’s lock mechanism. The bunks are assigned on a first-come, first-served basis. I chose a bottom bunk, hoping for a smoother ride, having experienced more jolting on upper bunks in the past. However, this meant I didn’t have direct access to the door lock, which was positioned near the top bunk.
Around 10:30 p.m., I needed to use the bathroom. The passenger in the top bunk was awake, so it was fine. But later, around 2 a.m., I found myself needing to go again. The top-bunk passenger was asleep, and I hesitated to wake her. It felt a bit awkward having to disturb her sleep, and it made me reconsider my bunk choice. Perhaps I would have preferred a top bunk after all, so I could control my own entry and exit without disturbing others.
A Restless Night’s Sleep
Despite the lie-flat beds, provided linens, and a pillow, my expectations for a good night’s sleep were quickly dashed. The bed itself didn’t feel comfortable, and I only managed a couple of hours of sleep before being woken multiple times. These disturbances came from other passengers entering and exiting the cabin, as well as the general bumpiness of the train.
For much of the night, I found myself awake, watching shows on my iPad, as trying to sleep felt like a losing battle. The motion of the train and the shared space made for a very restless journey. This was particularly disappointing, as the primary reason for booking an overnight train was to arrive in Venice feeling rested and ready to explore.
An Evolving Service
A representative for OBB Nightjet acknowledged the importance of passenger comfort and stated that they are “constantly working on improvements to our product and also take into account the requirements of our customers.” They noted that in 2023, Nightjet upgraded its overnight trains, offering more spacious shared sleeper cabins and new bunks. These improvements suggest a commitment to enhancing the passenger experience.
Arriving in Venice
Disembarking the train in Venice, the feeling was overwhelmingly one of exhaustion, not rejuvenation. My first day in the city, filled with incredible sights and sounds, was somewhat diminished by the lack of sleep. This was the most surprising aspect of the entire experience – the journey intended to save me time and energy had the opposite effect.
This experience taught me that a shared sleeper cabin on an overnight train might not be the ideal choice for everyone, especially when maximizing exploration time is the goal. While the journey itself can be part of the adventure, arriving at your destination feeling refreshed is crucial for truly enjoying it. For me, arriving tired meant a less enjoyable start to my Venetian adventure.
Upgrading for Future Journeys
A year after my initial trip, I found myself planning another European adventure in November 2023. This time, I was determined to avoid a repeat of my previous experience. Remembering the cramped quarters and lack of privacy, I decided to splurge on the highest accommodation OBB Nightjet offers: a private cabin for my overnight journey from Venice back to Vienna.
The upgrade, which cost around $200, provided a private 30-square-foot space. It included a vanity, a washbasin, and ample storage, offering a significant improvement in comfort and personal space. The difference was remarkable. I slept soundly, waking up feeling completely refreshed and ready to face the day. This private cabin experience redefined my perception of overnight train travel. From now on, for any overnight train journey, I’ll be reserving a private cabin to ensure a comfortable and restful night.
Making the Most of Your Trip
Would a private cabin be better for families?
When traveling with family, especially with younger children like my Lily and Ethan, privacy becomes even more crucial. A private cabin on an overnight train would offer a secure and comfortable environment for everyone. It allows you to manage bedtime routines without disturbing other passengers and provides a sense of personal space that can make a significant difference in overall comfort.
Having a dedicated space where the kids can wind down, and we can all relax together, without worrying about encroaching on others, is invaluable. It means my spouse, Michael, and I can also get some much-needed rest, ensuring we’re all ready for a full day of sightseeing the next morning. For us, the extra cost for a private cabin is definitely worth the guaranteed peace and rest.
Considering Your Travel Style
Is the shared cabin truly awful?
The shared cabin experience isn’t inherently “awful,” but it does cater to a specific type of traveler. If you’re on a tight budget, don’t mind close quarters, and are a deep sleeper who isn’t easily disturbed, it can be a functional option for transit. It’s for the traveler who prioritizes cost and maximizing daylight hours above all else.
However, if you value personal space, privacy, and a good night’s sleep to fully enjoy your destination, then the shared cabin might fall short. It’s about understanding your own travel preferences and what will contribute most to a positive overall experience. Sometimes, a slightly higher cost for a better night’s sleep is a worthwhile investment in your trip.
The Future of Night Trains
What are the latest train upgrades?
It’s encouraging to see companies like OBB Nightjet investing in upgrades. The improvements to shared cabins, offering more space, and the introduction of new bunk designs indicate a responsiveness to customer feedback. These changes suggest that nighttime train travel is evolving to become more comfortable and appealing to a wider range of travelers.
While my personal experience with shared cabins left much to be desired, knowing that the service is continually being refined offers hope for future journeys. The ongoing development aims to balance cost-effectiveness with passenger comfort, which is essential for encouraging more people to embrace this eco-friendly mode of transport across Europe.
Reflecting on my overnight train journeys, it’s clear that the type of cabin makes all the difference. While a shared cabin might save money, the compromises on privacy and sleep quality can impact your precious travel time. For future trips, especially when family is involved and a well-rested start to our adventures is key, a private cabin on the Nightjet is definitely the way to go.