Italy’s Cinque Terre: Drink Wine From Terrified Cliffs

The Cinque Terre, a string of five villages perched precariously on the Ligurian coastline, is renowned for its dramatic scenery and pastel-colored houses clinging to impossibly steep cliffs. While millions visit annually for its postcard-perfect views, there’s another layer to this UNESCO World Heritage site: a rugged agricultural landscape sustained by centuries of human effort.

This ancient system of terracing, built stone by stone, was designed to cultivate vineyards, producing wines that were once lauded by poets and royalty. However, the 20th century brought significant challenges. Emigration, plant diseases, and the inherent difficulty of mechanizing steep, craggy slopes led to a dramatic decline in viticulture. Today, a staggering 90 percent of the land once dedicated to grapes has been reclaimed by wild scrub, leaving only a handful of dedicated winemakers to carry on the tradition.

These remaining vintners are producing some of Italy’s most unique wines. The signature Cinque Terre DOC white blends typically feature Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino grapes, resulting in intensely mineral and saline wines. Embarking on a journey through these wines offers a profound connection to the land and its history.

Wine Production Under Strain

The landscape here is a constant reminder of the labor involved. Farmers can still be seen tending to minuscule cliffside vineyards, meticulously maintaining the stone walls that hold back the earth. They utilize small, specialized trains, known as “treninos,” on narrow rails to transport materials and workers up the steep inclines, a testament to the enduring need for hand-operated methods.

This dedication to viticulture is a tradition passed down through generations. Some families have worked these lands for centuries, their connection to the vineyards as strong as the ancient stone walls themselves. The struggle to preserve this agricultural practice is ongoing, with many older vintners finding it difficult to continue without more support.

Exploring the Vineyards

Visiting the Cantina Capellini vineyard offers a glimpse into this world. Here, you can see century-old vines, like the dark Vermentino Nero grapes named Adelaide, sprawling across the terraces. These older vines, once interplanted with red grapes to ensure biodiversity and vine health, now stand as solitary, resilient figures against the backdrop of the Ligurian Sea.

The winery’s open-air tasting area, an “Agrivino,” provides an sensory experience. Situated directly among the vines, it allows visitors to smell the plants and feel the coastal breeze while learning about the region’s thousand-year winemaking history. This hands-on approach aims to share the deep cultural significance of the vineyards.

Hiking the trails between villages frequently reveals vines growing just feet from the paths, with the stunning panorama of the Ligurian Sea unfurling below. The towns, like Corniglia clinging to its cliff face, and boats gliding in the bay, create a breathtaking scene that feels almost otherworldly.

Wine as a Cultural Lens

Your exploration of local wine can begin in Riomaggiore at a wine shop like Ghemé, where owners engage with visitors, sharing insights and offering tastes of different vintages. Nearby, bars like A Pié de Ma serve chilled, flinty whites, perfect for savoring the local flavors after a day of exploration.

In the hilltop village of Groppo, the cooperative Cantina Cinque Terre, founded in 1973, plays a crucial role in preserving winemaking traditions. Many of its members are elderly, demonstrating the deep emotional and life-sustaining connection they have to their vineyards. Tasting wines like “vigne alte,” made from grapes grown at higher elevations, offers a distinct character shaped by the microclimate.

Experiencing “Heroic Viticulture”

To truly understand the dedication involved, consider partaking in “wine-trekking.” This involves hiking through the vineyards, often with a bottle of local wine in hand, allowing for a personal appreciation of the demanding work required. The blistering heat and steep climbs offer a tangible sense of the effort viticulturists exert daily.

Visiting a winery like Cian du Giorgi in the hamlet of San Bernardino provides another perspective. Owners who left established wine regions like Bordeaux to revive a semi-ruined vineyard here exemplify the passion driving this revival. They focus on biodynamic rosé wines, reflecting a commitment to sustainable practices.

The trenino remains the primary mode of transport within the vineyards, even for modern winemakers. These aging vines, some dating back 90 years, twist skyward, their gnarled branches reaching for the sun. Sharing a toast among these ancient vines, as a rainbow arcs overhead, is a deeply moving experience.

Even amidst the crowds in Vernazza, a visit to Cheo, an organic winery on the outskirts, offers a moment of calm. Here, fifth-generation winemaker Bartolomeo Lercari shares his family’s tradition, offering a selection of whites, a red, and the sweet Sciacchetrà. The steepness of the land becomes apparent as you walk the property, learning to identify Vermentino’s soft leaves and Bosco’s harder, shinier ones.

From this vantage point, Vernazza unfolds below, its position jutting into the sea a dramatic counterpoint to the tranquility above. The wine experienced here provides a feeling of elevation, both literally and figuratively, above the bustle of the towns.

For those planning a visit, understanding the local wine is a key to unlocking a richer experience of the Cinque Terre. It connects you to the land, the people, and a tradition that has shaped this remarkable coastline for centuries.

Visiting the Cinque Terre offers a chance to connect with a landscape shaped by centuries of human endeavor. Engaging with the local wine tradition provides a unique and deeply rewarding perspective on this iconic Italian destination.