You can find incredible food and wine experiences around Lucca, Italy. The area around Lucca is known for its wineries and is now a top spot for food lovers in Italy. It’s exciting to see how the local wine scene has influenced the restaurants here, making it a food destination, especially along the Versilia coast up to Forte dei Marmi.
Michelin Stars on the Coast
The Versilia coast, a sandy stretch from Viareggio to Forte dei Marmi, is a surprise for its concentration of high-end dining. You’ll find eight Michelin-star restaurants along a relatively small 12km area. It’s impressive how many can be found so close together. Inland, two more Michelin-starred restaurants complete the culinary picture: Butterfly on the Lucca plain and Giglio, located within the old city walls of Lucca itself.
Lucca’s Rich History
Lucca sits in a fertile plain in northern Tuscany. It feels like a discovery, an ancient place with Etruscan roots. The Romans recognized its strategic spot in northern Italy and made it a colony. Back then, they called it Luca, and defending it meant defending the whole empire. It was considered the northern edge of Mediterranean civilization at one time.
Silk Trade and Grand Residences
During the Middle Ages, Lucca became a wealthy republic, largely due to its thriving silk production and trade. This prosperity led to the construction of many grand palaces and churches within the historic center. You can still visit beautiful examples like the San Martino cathedral and the San Frediano basilica. The wealth from silk also allowed Lucca’s noble families to invest in the countryside. When the silk trade faced challenges in the 16th century, they channeled their fortunes into developing the ‘villa-farm’ model, creating elegant estates.
Vineyards on the Hills
Looking out from Lucca’s city walls, which are now lined with pathways and gardens, you’ll see the Lucca hills. These hills are perfect for growing grapes. The Valgiano area, northeast of the city, is considered the most prestigious for wine. In the early 2000s, Tenuta di Valgiano brought attention to this region by focusing on organic farming and minimal-intervention winemaking. They also started LuccaBiodinamica in 2016, an initiative to promote biodynamic farming methods, which now includes 16 local wineries.
Prized Grape Blends
Tenuta di Valgiano has found success by blending native grape varietals, like Sangiovese, with international ones such as Merlot and Syrah. These international grapes were introduced by French soldiers who ended the Lucca Republic in 1799. Their blend, the Tenuta di Valgiano Colline Lucchesi Rosso, is a powerful yet elegant wine that truly represents the small Colline Lucchesi DOC zone, located just northeast of Pisa.
Exploring Local Wineries
When you tour the local wineries around Lucca, you should consider visiting Malgiacca, Macea, and Podere Ciòcori. Podere Ciòcori is perched in the rugged Garfagnana region, about 35km north of Lucca city. Within the larger Lucca municipal area, Fabbrica di San Martino, Fattoria Sardi, and the farm cooperatives Calafata and Pieve Santo Stefano are also recommended stops.
Lucca’s Signature Dishes
The food in Lucca is a highlight. You must try some of the symbolic dishes. Garmugia is a spring soup made with vegetables and bacon. Tordelli al ragù are fresh pasta parcels filled with pork and beef, bread, cheese, and eggs, served with a rich meat sauce. Rovellina is thinly sliced beef, breaded and fried, then simmered in a tomato and caper sauce. For seafood lovers, anchovies and cod are particularly good here. Don’t forget to taste buccellato, a sweet bread flavored with anise and raisins.
Best Time to Visit Lucca
Any time of year is good to explore Lucca. However, summer often stands out because of the nearby beaches and the many events. The Lucca Summer Festival and the Puccini Festival are major attractions during the summer months, making it a particularly lively time. Lily and I loved strolling through the city walls in July, hearing the distant music from the festival.
Top Places to Eat and Drink
- Al Tambellini dal 1870: This restaurant has a history of 150 years. It’s located in an old post station and horse stable on the outskirts of Lucca. They serve all the traditional Lucca recipes, including tordelli and rovellina. Their wine cellar features the best wines from the nearby Colline Lucchesi DOC area. It has a warm, family feel, and you can eat outside on their porch during the summer.
- Enoteca Vanni: This is a must-visit for wine enthusiasts. It’s housed in a 13th-century palace. The underground cellars are extensive, holding over 50,000 bottles from all over the world, including many older vintages. They have a growing focus on natural wines. You can buy a bottle and enjoy it at the connected Dispensa bistro, which offers light lunches and evening aperitifs.
- Enoteca Vino e Convivio: Located in an industrial area just outside Lucca, this wine shop offers a peaceful atmosphere inside, with bottles filling the shelves floor to ceiling. They don’t stick to a specific region but focus on natural wines. The kitchen provides small dishes and snacks perfect for a quick lunch or an aperitif.
- Fattoria Sardi: This is a well-known biodynamic winery on the first hills of Lucca. They recently opened the Ristoro Agricolo restaurant, where Chef Damiano Donati creates a tasting menu using seasonal products to minimize waste. You can dine in the cellar during winter or in the farmyard near the vineyards in summer. They also offer aperitifs with small tastings.
- Giglio: This Michelin one-star restaurant is in an elegant 18th-century building in Piazza del Giglio, facing the municipal theatre. Three talented young chefs, under the guidance of Paola Barbieri, beautifully reimagine classic Tuscan dishes from both land and sea. They offer a tasting menu for vegetarians, and their wine list boasts about 700 labels from around the globe.
- Gigliola: This is a gastro-bakery started by the chefs from Giglio. It’s a popular spot for locals and tourists. Here, you can enjoy biodynamic wines and vermouth by the glass, along with croutons and stuffed focaccias. They also offer international street food. Their homemade breads are exceptional.
- Gino Frutta & Bistrot: Gino Pieri, whose family has a background in fruit and vegetables, opened this spot in Lucca’s historic center in 2006. It started as a shop, then added a deli and a bistro. You can have breakfast, buy fruit, or enjoy aperitifs here. They have stuffed flatbreads, takeaway deli dishes, and an à la carte menu for lunch. The wine list includes many sparkling and natural wines.
- Mecenate: Situated within the city walls in a renovated old laundry, Mecenate focuses on traditional dishes made with high-quality local ingredients. Their garmugia, tordelli, tripe, and stewed chicken are highly praised. In summer, the veranda overlooking Piazza San Francesco adds a special touch. The wine list has over 300 labels, some quite rare.
- Osteria di Lammari: This tavern, now run by Cristina Taddeucci and Dino Lera, is in the flatlands of Lucca. It has a long history as a stop for travelers and even a dance hall. You can enjoy seasonal soups, cod and potato ravioli, or tordelli with meat sauce here. Their stewed tripe is a classic. They have a summer garden and a good selection of biodynamic wines. Michael and I had a lovely dinner here one evening while the kids played in the garden.
- Santa Goccia: This is a new wine shop and bar near the San Frediano basilica. It’s run by three young partners. They have an extensive wine list with a focus on biodynamic wines from the Lucca area, as well as wines from other parts of Italy and abroad. They also offer a good selection of spirits, which pair well with their cheese and charcuterie platters.
I really enjoyed my visit to Lucca and its surroundings. It’s a place that offers wonderful culinary discoveries and a deep connection to its history and the land. I hope you get to experience it soon.