Italy’s Basilicata region holds a unique gem: Matera, a city sculpted from stone. It’s a place that feels ancient and alive, offering a deep dive into history and culture. I’ve found it to be an ideal destination for families looking for an immersive experience, especially outside the peak summer months. The air is crisp, the crowds are thinner, and the golden stone glows beautifully.
Arriving in Matera
The easiest way to reach Matera is by flying into Bari Airport (BRI). From there, it’s about an hour’s drive inland. I often rent a car, which gives us the flexibility to explore the wider region, but you can also arrange a private transfer or take public transport. Navigating Matera itself is best done on foot. The historic center is a maze of steep, winding streets and staircases, so comfortable walking shoes are an absolute must. I always pack extra comfortable sneakers for the kids, too, as they love to run around the ancient pathways.
Sometimes, when arriving in a new town, especially one with so many winding streets, I make the mistake of trying to carry too much. It’s easy to get turned around when you first sightsee. For Matera, sticking to a smaller backpack with essentials like water, snacks, and a map saves so much hassle. Trying to manage luggage up those cobblestone steps can be a real challenge, so packing light initially makes a huge difference.
Exploring the Sassi
Matera is famously divided into two “sassi,” or stone districts: Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso. These areas are a fascinating network of homes, churches, and monasteries carved directly into the rock. It’s one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on Earth, with evidence of human settlement dating back millennia. The sheer scale of it is breathtaking, and I find it’s best to take our time exploring, getting lost in the alleys.
I always make sure to allocate plenty of time for just wandering. The sassi are UNESCO World Heritage sites, and they have strict regulations about renovations. This means much of the ancient stone interior has been preserved. You’ll see millennia-old caves, some of which have been transformed into hotels, restaurants, and charming homes. Other caves remain empty, silent testaments to the past.
“What is the best part of the sassi to explore first?”
Both sassi offer incredible experiences. Sasso Barisano is more restored and has more amenities, including lovely shops and restaurants. Sasso Caveoso feels a bit wilder and more ancient, with many cave dwellings still visible. I like to start in Sasso Barisano and gradually make our way into Sasso Caveoso to experience the contrast. We often stop at small viewpoints to just take in the panorama, especially as the sun begins to set and the lights twinkle on across the ravine.
When we’re exploring, especially with young children, I’ve learned the importance of planning short bursts of activity interspersed with breaks. Instead of trying to cover vast areas at once, we focus on one section, find a nice piazza, and let the kids have a juice or a small pastry. This way, they don’t get overwhelmed, and we can appreciate the details more fully.
Unique Stays and Spas
Matera offers a truly unique accommodation experience, with many hotels built into the ancient cave structures. Staying in one of these converted cave rooms is an unforgettable experience. They blend the raw, historic stone with modern comforts like Wi-Fi, air conditioning, and plush bedding. I’ve found that many of these hotels are beautifully designed, respecting the original architecture while offering luxury.
Some of the hotels even boast wellness areas within the subterranean cave network. Imagine relaxing in a hydropool or sauna carved into stone that’s thousands of years old. The spas often use natural elements and local ingredients in their treatments. I’ve had a wonderfully calming massage in a treatment room that was once an animal stable – it’s an incredible connection to the past.
“Are the cave rooms dark?”
Some of the deepest cave rooms can have limited natural light, which is part of their unique charm. They are, however, equipped with clever lighting systems and often have glass doors for access. For families, it’s worth considering rooms that offer a bit more space or perhaps a small outdoor area if available. The feeling of sleeping within ancient rock is something quite special, but if you prefer ample natural light, opt for a room in a restored noble house or a higher floor that might be less embedded in the hillside.
Discovering Materan Cuisine
The food in Matera is a delicious reflection of its agricultural heritage. It’s rustic, hearty, and flavorful, with an emphasis on local ingredients. Peperoni cruschi, a type of dried, crispy red pepper, is a regional specialty and appears in many dishes. Pasta is a staple, often served with rich meat sauces or simple, fresh vegetable toppings. I always look for dishes featuring local vegetables and cheeses.
One of my favorite culinary discoveries has been the bread. Matera is known for its sourdough-style bread, pane di Matera. It has a thick crust and a wonderfully soft interior. I’ve found that bakeries often sell small loaves that are perfect for snacking on during the day. We also love trying local sweets, especially small cakes and pastries often flavored with lemon or almonds.
“Where should we eat dinner?”
Matera has a growing culinary scene, from casual osterias tucked into caves to more upscale restaurants. I’ve had fantastic meals in places built directly into the rock, offering an atmospheric dining experience. Some restaurants specialize in tasting menus that showcase the best of Lucanian cuisine. It’s a good idea to book tables in advance, especially for dinner, as popular spots can fill up quickly. I always ask for recommendations from locals or our hotel staff to find authentic, family-run establishments.
When dining with kids, I’ve found that simpler pasta dishes, like pasta with tomato sauce or butter and cheese, are usually a hit. Many trattorias are very family-friendly and accommodating. I also make sure to have some snacks on hand, just in case the main meal takes a little longer to arrive or if the children are less adventurous with their palates.
A Day Trip to Altamura
Just a short drive from Matera is the town of Altamura, another historic gem in the Puglia region. Altamura is famous for its exceptional bread, pane di Altamura, and it’s a delightful place to spend a day. The medieval town center is charming, with narrow streets and ancient buildings.
Altamura is known for its unique cream-filled pastries, often called “tette delle monache” (nun’s tit). It’s a humorous name for a delicate, breast-shaped pastry filled with Chantilly cream. I recommend seeking out a local bakery to try this regional specialty. I’ve found that visiting bakeries and trying local treats is a wonderful way to experience the culture of a region.
“Is it easy to get around Altamura?”
Like Matera, Altamura is best explored on foot. Parking can be found on the outskirts of the historic center, and from there, you can wander through the narrow streets. The pace of life here is slower, and it’s common for shops to close for a few hours in the afternoon. I find this midday lull to be a perfect time for a relaxed lunch or to simply enjoy a quiet moment.
Beyond the Sassi
Matera offers more than just its famous sassi. You can explore ancient rock churches dotted around the city and the surrounding park, Gravina di Matera. These churches, often adorned with faded frescoes, offer a glimpse into the region’s religious history. Visiting these sites often involves a bit of hiking and can be done with guided tours. I think it’s worth considering a guided tour for some of the more remote or historically significant sites to gain a deeper understanding.
The city also boasts beautiful viewpoints offering panoramic vistas of the sassi, especially stunning at dawn and dusk. Piazza Duomo, the cathedral square perched high above the city, offers an incredible perspective. It’s a peaceful spot, particularly in the early morning or late evening when the crowds have dispersed. I enjoy sitting here with a coffee, just soaking in the atmosphere and the remarkable scenery.
Sometimes, when planning a trip, I get caught up in trying to see every single attraction. For Matera, my advice is to slow down. Allow yourself to simply wander, to sit in a piazza, and to absorb the unique atmosphere. It’s a place that rewards a leisurely pace. The feeling of stepping back in time, surrounded by such ancient and beautiful architecture, is truly special. It’s a destination that stays with you long after you’ve left.
When is the best time to visit Matera?
I find that spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are ideal. The weather is pleasant for exploring, and the summer crowds haven’t arrived or have already departed. Winter can also be lovely and quiet, though days are shorter and it can be cooler. I visited once in November, and the mild weather was a pleasant surprise.
What should I wear when visiting Matera?
Comfortable walking shoes are essential due to the uneven, hilly terrain and cobblestone streets. Light layers are recommended, as temperatures can vary. Even in warmer months, evenings can be a bit cooler. I always pack a light jacket or shawl.
Is Matera suitable for families with young children?
Yes, Matera can be a fantastic family destination, but it requires some planning. The hilly terrain and many stairs can be challenging with strollers. Baby carriers are often more practical. Focusing on shorter exploration periods and incorporating breaks for play or snacks makes the experience more enjoyable for everyone. The novelty of staying in cave-like rooms can be a big hit with kids.