I’m standing on a stone balcony carved into the side of a ravine, looking across at a city that was once called “the shame of Italy.” The sun is setting behind the cathedral on the Civita ridge, and the entire Sassi district glows the color of warm honey. Matera’s cave dwellings — the Sassi — are among the longest continuously inhabited settlements on Earth, with human presence here dating back to the Neolithic period. This guide is for anyone wondering how a place that was forcibly evacuated in the 1950s became a European Capital of Culture, and whether it’s worth the trip now.
In 1952, Prime Minister Alcide De Gasperi called the Sassi “la vergogna d’Italia” — the shame of Italy — and ordered the evacuation of 15,000 people.
Yes, Matera is absolutely worth visiting — but go knowing its story isn’t a simple fairy tale. The beauty of the cave city today sits on top of a complicated, painful history that makes the experience richer and more honest than a typical Italian sightseeing stop.
History lovers
Architecture enthusiasts
Solo travelers who want depth
The Sassi are divided into two main districts. Sasso Caveoso faces south and feels older, with deeper, more原始的 cave structures. Sasso Barisano faces north and was more heavily modified over centuries. Between them sits the Civita promontory, where the cathedral has stood since the 13th century. The entire complex is carved into calcarenite limestone — tufo — which is soft when quarried but hardens on exposure, making these elaborate cave networks possible.
History & Heritage
From “Shame of Italy” to UNESCO World Heritage
The story of Matera’s caves is not a gentle one, and understanding it changes how you see the golden stone.
For thousands of years, families lived in single-room cave dwellings alongside their livestock. There was no running water, no sanitation, and very little light. Malaria was endemic, and child mortality rates were catastrophic. By the early 1950s, the Italian government decided the situation was untenable. Prime Minister Alcide De Gasperi called the Sassi “la vergogna d’Italia” and ordered a forced evacuation. Around 15,000 people were relocated to modernist housing blocks on the plateau above, and the caves were sealed with masonry.
For decades, the Sassi sat empty. The seals preserved the spatial relationships and structures, but the area became a ghost town. Then, in 1993, UNESCO designated the Sassi di Matera a World Heritage Site, calling it “an outstanding example of a rock-cut settlement.” That designation unlocked preservation frameworks and EU structural funds for infrastructure restoration. The perception shifted from failure to celebrated architecture.
Matera was named European Capital of Culture for 2019, a title that accelerated tourism and investment. Property values in Sasso Barisano have increased by 340% since 2010. The city has also become a filming location for major productions, including Mel Gibson’s The Passion of the Christ (2004) and the James Bond film No Time to Die (2021).
The caves were sealed after evacuation and remained empty for decades. That emptiness preserved the original layouts, which made later restoration possible. Without that gap, much of the historical fabric would have been lost to modern renovations.
What to See in the Sassi: Cave Churches, Belvederes, and Bread
The Sassi are best explored on foot, and the real magic is in the details carved into the rock.
Inside the Sassi, you’ll find several rupestrian churches carved directly into the tufo. Madonna de Idris is one of the most accessible, with frescoes that date back to the 13th century. The church sits high on a rock spur, and the view from its entrance stretches across the Gravina ravine.
Matera’s bread is another cultural landmark. Baked in communal wood-fired ovens and stamped with family marks to distinguish loaves, it received IGP status in 2008. That designation protects the traditional production methods and ties the bread directly to the city’s identity. You can still buy loaves from bakeries in the Sassi, and the crust is thick and dark, with a chewy interior that tastes nothing like supermarket bread.
For the best view of the Sassi, walk to the belvedere on the opposite side of the Gravina ravine. Sunset from that spot transforms the tufa city into a glowing gold mass. It’s the same view that shifted public perception from shame to extraordinary.
Visit the belvedere about 45 minutes before sunset. The light changes fast, and the best color lasts only about 15 minutes. Bring a jacket — the ravine creates a wind tunnel that drops the temperature noticeably once the sun goes down.
Staying in a Cave Hotel: What It’s Really Like
Sleeping in a converted cave dwelling is the most immersive way to experience Matera, but it comes with trade-offs.
Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita opened in 2009 and pioneered the luxury cave hotel model. It occupies 18 caves in Sasso Barisano and follows a deliberate philosophy of minimal intervention. There are no televisions, no minibars, and the rooms retain curved raw rock walls. Nightly rates can reach €800 in peak season. The hotel’s approach set a standard for restoration that prioritizes historical fidelity over modern convenience.
Other properties have followed. Palazzo Margherita in nearby Bernalda is Francis Ford Coppola’s restoration project. In the Sassi itself, La Dimora di Metello and Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel offer boutique cave accommodations with modern amenities like climate control and bathrooms carved into adjacent rock chambers. The restoration process required innovations — hidden climate control systems, concealed lighting, and bathrooms that don’t disturb the original cave structure.
The thermal properties of tufo maintain a stable temperature of around 15°C year-round. That means cave rooms stay cool in summer and warm in winter, but they can feel damp if you’re not used to stone interiors. If you’re considering a cave hotel, pack layers and expect some humidity.
Cave rooms can feel claustrophobic if you’re sensitive to enclosed spaces. The lack of windows in some rooms means no natural light until you step outside. Check the room description carefully — some caves have terraces overlooking the ravine, while others are entirely internal.
Eating in Matera: From Cave Kitchens to Michelin Stars
The food scene here is rooted in Lucanian tradition, and some of the best meals happen in caves.
Vitantonio Lombardo earned Matera’s first Michelin star in 2020, working from a cave kitchen in Sasso Barisano. His restaurant elevates Lucanian cuisine — think local grains, wild herbs, and aged cheeses — into something that feels both ancient and modern. Reservations are essential and often book weeks in advance.
For a more casual meal, look for restaurants that serve orecchiette con le rape (ear-shaped pasta with turnip greens) or crapiata, a traditional legume and grain soup that dates back to Roman times. Many trattorias in the Sassi operate out of converted cave dwellings, so you’re eating in the same spaces where families once lived. The bread, as mentioned, is a must-order with every meal.
For a memorable lunch without the Michelin price tag, head to a bakery in Sasso Barisano around 11 a.m. and grab a loaf of IGP Matera bread still warm from the wood-fired oven. Pair it with local olive oil and a glass of Aglianico del Vulture wine. Total cost: under €10.
Getting to Matera and Getting Around
Matera is not on the main train lines, but it’s accessible enough for a weekend trip.
The closest major city is Bari, about 65 kilometers away. From Bari, you can take the FAL railway, which runs roughly every hour and takes about 1.5 hours. The train drops you at Matera Centrale station, which is a short walk from the Sassi. Driving is also straightforward — the SS99 highway connects Bari to Matera in about an hour.
Once you’re in the Sassi, you don’t need a car. The districts are compact and pedestrian-only in many areas. Streets are steep, uneven, and often slippery from polished stone. Wear sturdy shoes with good grip. Strollers are possible but challenging — the cobblestones and stairs make for a bumpy ride. If you’re traveling with young kids, a baby carrier is a better option.
Parking in Matera is limited and expensive. Most hotels in the Sassi don’t have on-site parking. If you’re driving, look for the Parcheggio Via Lucana or the Parcheggio di Piazza Vittorio Veneto, both of which are within walking distance of the Sassi. Expect to pay around €15–20 per day.
Matera vs. Other Italian Hill Towns: Is It Different?
Matera gets compared to places like Assisi, Orvieto, and Cortona, but the comparison misses the point.
| Feature | Matera | Typical Italian Hill Town |
|---|---|---|
| Primary architecture | Cave dwellings carved into rock | Stone buildings on a hilltop |
| Continuous habitation | 9,000+ years | Usually 2,000–3,000 years |
| 20th-century history | Forced evacuation, 1952 | No mass evacuation |
| UNESCO status | 1993, entire Sassi district | Often historic center only |
| Hotel experience | Sleep in a cave | Sleep in a converted palazzo |
| Filming location | Passion of the Christ, No Time to Die | Under the Tuscan Sun, etc. |
Matera’s cave architecture is genuinely unique in Italy. No other city offers the same combination of rock-cut dwellings, ravine geography, and a history that includes both ancient habitation and modern trauma. If you’ve seen a dozen Italian hill towns and want something that feels different, Matera delivers.
- Matera’s Sassi are among the oldest continuously inhabited settlements on Earth, with a history that includes forced evacuation and UNESCO revival.
- Stay in a cave hotel for the full experience, but choose a room with a terrace or window if you need natural light.
- Visit the belvedere at sunset for the iconic view, and eat Matera’s IGP bread fresh from a wood-fired oven.
Matera Travel Questions You Might Have
Is Matera overrun with tourists?
It gets busy, especially in spring and fall. The Sassi are compact, so crowds feel denser than in a larger city. Visit in November or February for a quieter experience.
Can you visit Matera as a day trip from Bari?
Technically yes, but you’ll rush. The train takes 1.5 hours each way, and the Sassi deserve at least one overnight to see them at sunrise and sunset. A day trip skips the best light.
Is Matera disappointing in any way?
Some visitors find the cave hotels overpriced for what they offer — basic rooms with no windows can feel like a rip-off at €300+ per night. Also, the history of forced evacuation is uncomfortable, and the city’s revival hasn’t fully addressed the displacement of the original residents.
Is Matera safe for solo female travelers?
Yes. The Sassi are well-lit and patrolled, and the city is generally safe. The main concern is the uneven terrain — twisted ankles are more common than any safety issue.
How many days do you need in Matera?
Two full days is the sweet spot. One day for the Sassi and cave churches, one day for a hike in the Gravina ravine or a visit to the Cripta del Peccato Originale. Three days if you want to relax.
Why Matera Stays With You
I came to Matera expecting beautiful stone and a good story. I left with something harder to name — a sense that a place can hold both deep shame and genuine beauty at the same time, and that the tension between them is what makes it real. The caves aren’t just architecture. They’re a record of how people lived, how a government failed them, and how a city rebuilt itself without erasing the past. That’s rare in travel, and it’s worth the trip. For more on Italy’s less-traveled corners, read about Pantelleria, Italy’s top unwind spot — another place that defies easy labels.
Sources and further reading
Italy Latitudes. “Matera’s Cave City Reborn as a Luxury Destination.” 🔗
Fast Italian Learning. “Matera Sassi: From ‘Shame of Italy’ to European Capital of Culture.” 🔗
Love to Visit Italy. “How Matera Went from Italy’s Shame to One of Its Greatest Treasures.” 🔗
Italy Latitudes. “Matera Cave Luxury Address: Architecture & Heritage.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Guardiagrele: Italy’s City of Stone Crafts — Another Italian town where stone craftsmanship defines the landscape, with a focus on local artisans and medieval architecture.
Liguria’s Fairytale Villages & Coastal Delights — If Matera’s ravine views appeal to you, Liguria’s cliffside villages offer a different kind of dramatic scenery.
Escape Rome for a Roman Holiday in Ninfa Gardens — A garden escape that, like Matera, combines history with a sense of rediscovery.
Tuscany: Savor Olive Oil Tastings in Chianti — For travelers who want to pair their Italian trip with food-focused experiences similar to Matera’s bread culture.