I found myself completely charmed by Lecce, often called the “Florence of the South.” It’s a city in Puglia, halfway down the heel of Italy’s boot, that feels like a wonderfully preserved secret. Unlike some Italian cities packed with tourists, Lecce retains a strong sense of everyday life, where locals embrace their southern Italian rhythm. This means you’ll notice a certain quiet in the afternoons, with shops closing for a few hours. It’s a reminder that this is a living city, not just a place for visitors.
Baroque Beauty and Ancient Roots
My exploration began at Porta Rudiae, a stunning Baroque gateway that marks one of the entrances to the old city. It’s topped with a statue of the city’s patron saint, Oronzo. As you walk through, look closely at the right-hand wall; you’ll see a framed scene of the saint made from papier mâché, hinting at a local craft I’d see more of later.
Moving onto Via Giuseppe Libertini, this narrow street guides you through the city’s ancient heart. The buildings here are soft and creamy, crafted from the local tufa limestone. I passed by the ornate facades of Basilica del Rosario, Chiesa di Santa Elisabetta, and Chiesa di Santa Teresa, each one tempting me to step inside their cool, hushed interiors.
Just a little further along this street, I discovered La Bottega del Corso, a modern enoteca that’s a perfect stop for local flavors. They had shelves full of regional delicacies, including frise di orzo, which are dry barley bread slices meant to be topped with savory ingredients. Next door, Re Mida is a great spot for sampling local cheeses and wines. It felt like a true taste of the Salento region.
Piazza del Duomo A Masterpiece
The highlight for many is Lecce’s Piazza del Duomo. It’s set back from the main thoroughfares, approached through an alley, which makes its vastness feel even more impressive. The bright Adriatic sun reflects off the tufo stone, almost outdoing the incredible artistry of the 16th and 17th-century sculptors. Giuseppe Zimbalo, in particular, left his mark here, restoring the cathedral and bell tower with his masterful touch.
You can enter the Duomo dell’ Assunta for free, where I admired the three naves and the wooden coffered ceiling. I also made sure to visit the crypt, which dates back to medieval times, for a glimpse into even older history. Nearby, the Bishop’s Palace and the Seminary house the Diocesan Museum. For a small fee, you can see liturgical treasures like sculptures, silverware, and vestments.
In this square, I also found two fascinating studios. One featured an artist working on sacred paintings, and the other was the Laboratorio della Cartapesta di Marco Epicochi. It was amazing to watch Signore Epicochi at work, shaping his papier mâché figures of saints and other characters. He even had examples on display, showing the wire frames and clay heads he uses as a base. I imagined bringing one of his creations home as a unique souvenir.
Roman Echoes and Local Life
Back on the main street, I turned into Via Arcivescovo Petronelli and found Doppiozero, a deli and restaurant that was a perfect spot for lunch. It’s the kind of place where you can enjoy artisan cheeses, salumi, and fresh bread at long, rustic tables, or even outside under the shade of the cathedral’s walls. I shared a long table with a local family, and it felt like a truly authentic experience.
A short walk led me to the Museum of the Roman Theatre. This excavated performance space, dating back to the 1930s, gave me a sense of Lecce’s ancient past. The museum also holds a collection of nine theatrical masks found at Hadrian’s Villa. It was a surprisingly intimate look at Roman culture.
Continuing past Piazzetta Orsini, I arrived at Must – the Historical Museum of the City of Lecce. Housed in a former convent, it offers a journey through Lecce’s history alongside contemporary art exhibitions. I particularly enjoyed seeing a collection of works by Salentine artist Cosimo Carlucci, which provided a great overview of art from the mid-20th century.
Amphitheaters and Stunning Churches
From Must, I walked through Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. Here, another Baroque gem, the Chiesa di Santa Chiara, caught my eye. I also noted Via Federico d’Aragona, which promised a good area for evening drinks. Across the square, I found the remains of the Roman Amphitheatre on Piazza Sant’Oronzo. This second-century structure, still used for performances today, could once seat 25,000 spectators. Seeing only a part of it, I could only imagine the crowds that once gathered here.
Back in Piazza Sant’Oronzo, the statue of Oronzo stands atop a column that once stood on the Appian Way. On the ground of the piazza, a mosaic of a wolf beneath an oak tree serves as the city’s symbol. It’s a beautiful detail, standing out against some of the more utilitarian architecture of the square.
I then made my way, through a charming series of piazzettas, to get a full view of Lecce’s stunning Basilica di Santa Croce. Its facade is incredibly detailed, with a magnificent rose window at its center, adorned with intricate stone carvings. I stepped inside to marvel at the equally elaborate interior, a true feast for the eyes.
Gardens and Castle Walls
Leaving Santa Croce, I turned right onto Via Umberto I and then right again, through a courtyard, to find a moment of calm in the airy public gardens, the Villa Comunale. It was a lovely break from the detailed architecture, a chance to just breathe and enjoy the greenery. It felt like a place where you could easily spend an afternoon reading or simply relaxing.
Continuing south along Viale XXV Luglio, I arrived at the 16th-century Castello di Carlo V. The castle grounds are open and free to explore, and it also houses the city’s papier mâché museum. It offered a different perspective on the city’s history and its artistic traditions, showing how this craft has been preserved over centuries.
Family Moments
During my visit, I brought Michael and the kids along for a few days. Lily, especially, was fascinated by the papier mâché figures she saw at the Laboratorio della Cartapesta. She kept pointing them out, asking if we could get one for her room. Ethan, bless him, was more interested in chasing pigeons in Piazza Sant’Oronzo near the Roman amphitheatre, but even he seemed to sense the historical weight of the place, stopping to look at the ancient stones.
One afternoon, we found ourselves in the Villa Comunale. Lily was delighted to find a small playground area, and Michael and I were able to sit on a bench and just watch them play. It was a simple moment, but a perfect example of how enjoyable it is to just exist in a beautiful, safe place with your family. Later, we grabbed some delicious gelato from a small shop on Via Giuseppe Libertini, and the kids were thrilled, their faces smeared with chocolate.
Travel Essentials
Getting to Lecce is straightforward. While there are no direct flights from the UK, Ryanair flies from Stansted to Brindisi. From Brindisi airport, Pugliairbus buses run regularly to Lecce, making the journey a convenient 40 minutes. This service is quite affordable too.
For accommodation, I stayed at the Santa Chiara Suite Hotel in Lecce. My room was comfortable, and the breakfast was a lovely start to the day. It was conveniently located for exploring the city on foot.
For more information about the region, the Puglia Tourist Board website is a great resource. I found it helpful when planning activities and learning about local events.
Lecce is a truly special place, offering a rich blend of history, art, and authentic Italian life. I felt so much richer for having explored its Baroque streets and savored its local flavors.