Forget the usual Italian suspects for a moment. While Rome, Florence, and Venice are classics for a reason, if you’ve ticked those off and are looking for something truly different, consider Matera. It’s a city that doesn’t immediately grab you with postcard-perfect beauty, but rather unfolds its story the deeper you explore. This ancient city, a former European Capital of Culture, is carved into the landscape and offers a travel experience unlike any other in Italy.
Exploring the Ancient Sassi
Matera is most famous for its sassi, a complex of cave dwellings that have been inhabited for thousands of years, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Walking through the sassi feels like stepping back in time. The buildings are layered on top of each other, creating a maze of stone alleys and stairways. It’s a place that really benefits from a guide who can point out the historical layers, from ancient churches with faded frescoes to the more recent, but still visible, signs of its past.
Michael and I found ourselves completely drawn into the visual impact of the sassi. From certain viewpoints, the dense collection of ochre buildings, all piled at different levels, creates a stunning, almost otherworldly scene. There are no parks or trees here, just stone architecture that seems to have grown out of the earth itself. It’s a dramatic landscape that has even served as a backdrop for films, doubling for Jerusalem in movies like “The Gospel According to St. Matthew” and “The Passion of the Christ.”
Matera’s sassi are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for their unique historical and cultural significance.
A Complex History of Resilience
The story of Matera is one of incredible resilience, marked by periods of extreme hardship and remarkable revival. For a long time, the sassi were home to the poorest residents of Matera. They lived in very basic conditions, often without electricity or running water, sometimes sharing their spaces with animals. These living conditions led to widespread diseases like malaria, and after World War II, the sassi were infamously declared the “shame of Italy.”
The government eventually relocated the residents to more modern housing on the outskirts of the city, a move that was met with mixed reactions. For about three decades, from the 1950s to the 1980s, the sassi were largely abandoned and fell into disrepair. You can still see remnants of this period, like empty caves marked with graffiti, particularly on the edges of the historic area where the narrow lanes open up to views of the surrounding hills and the impressive Gravina River ravine.
⚡ Quick Tips
- Visit during the shoulder seasons (spring or autumn) to avoid the summer heat and crowds.
- Wear comfortable shoes suitable for walking on uneven stone surfaces and steep inclines.
- Consider hiring a local guide to fully appreciate the history and intricacies of the sassi.
The Renaissance of Matera
However, Matera has experienced a remarkable resurgence. People began to see the potential in the ancient cave dwellings again. Individuals like Raffaello de Ruggieri were pioneers, moving back into the sassi despite skepticism about living in such stark conditions. By the mid-1980s, the Italian government started offering incentives for people to renovate and restore the caves. This effort culminated in 1993 when UNESCO officially designated the sassi as a World Heritage Site, marking a turning point for the city.
Today, many of the sassi have been transformed into charming shops, restaurants, and unique accommodations. It’s a testament to the city’s ability to blend its ancient past with modern comfort. This transformation is ongoing, and you can feel the energy of a city that is proud of its heritage and its successful rebirth.
Unique Stays in Cave Dwellings
One of the most unforgettable experiences in Matera is staying in a renovated cave dwelling. We were fascinated by the prospect and found ourselves looking at several options. The Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita, a hotel that is part of Design Hotels, offers rooms carved directly into the grottoes overlooking the ravine. Each of the 18 rooms is distinct, reflecting the natural contours of the cave.
Imagine waking up in a stone cavern, with a simple bed beautifully set against the ancient walls. Even with modern amenities like sleek bathrooms, the sense of history is immediate. While this is a luxury experience, with prices reflecting the uniqueness, it offers a profoundly immersive way to connect with Matera’s past. It’s the sort of place that makes you feel like you’re part of the city’s ongoing story. Lily, our seven-year-old, was absolutely thrilled by the idea of sleeping in a real cave, something she’d only ever seen in books.
📍 Staying in a sassi cave dwelling is an exceptional experience, but booking well in advance is highly recommended, especially during peak season.
Culinary Delights and Historical Insights
Exploring Matera naturally leads to wonderful culinary discoveries. We enjoyed a delightful lunch at Ristorante Baccus, a cozy trattoria with characteristic stone walls that perfectly capture the local atmosphere. Dining here felt authentic, a chance to savor traditional flavors in a setting that has stood for centuries.
To truly understand the life of those who once inhabited these caves, a visit to La Storica Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario is a must. This small museum offers a poignant glimpse into what a typical grotto house looked like. It’s a stark reminder of the simple, often difficult, lives led by families here. You see the enclosed living spaces, the basic furnishings, and even models of the animals that would have shared the home. An adjoining room reveals a hole in the ground that served as a toilet, highlighting the absence of plumbing. Seeing this really puts into perspective the incredible journey Matera has made from those challenging times to its current status as a celebrated cultural destination.
Getting To and Around Matera
Reaching Matera requires a bit of planning, as it’s not as directly accessible as major Italian cities. The closest airport is in Bari. From Bari, you can either rent a car for a more flexible journey, which takes about an hour, or take a train. For those traveling from further afield, flying into a major hub like Rome or Naples and then taking a high-speed train to Salerno is an option. From Salerno, you’ll need to switch to a regional train for the journey towards Matera. Once in Matera, the best way to explore the sassi is on foot. The city is quite walkable, though be prepared for hills and stairs.
Why Matera is Worth Visiting Now
Matera’s designation as a European Capital of Culture was a significant acknowledgment of its transformation and cultural richness. This honor, which aims to foster cultural, economic, and social development across Europe, has brought increased attention and tourism to the city. For travelers seeking an experience beyond the typical Italian tourist trail, Matera offers an incredibly authentic and impactful destination. The city is evolving rapidly as more people discover its unique charm, making it an ideal time to visit before it becomes even more widely known.
The sheer authenticity of Matera is what struck me most. It’s a city that proudly displays its origins, with alleys, shops, and homes carved from the distinctive tufa stone that defines so much of what makes Italy special. In a world often dominated by homogenization, Matera stands as a place that holds onto its original character. It’s a powerful reminder of what remains when a place is protected and celebrated for its true self.
Visiting Matera with Michael and the kids was a highlight of our travels. Even four-year-old Ethan, who usually needs constant entertainment, was captivated by the sheer novelty of the cave houses. It’s the kind of destination that sparks curiosity and leaves a lasting impression long after you’ve departed. It offers a deep dive into history, culture, and human resilience, all within a uniquely beautiful landscape.