Ischia, a volcanic island in the Bay of Naples, offers a more tranquil alternative to its famous neighbor, Capri. Its affordability, lush landscapes, and charming seaside towns make it a worthwhile destination in southern Italy.
For a memorable two-day visit, focus on the stunning gardens, historical sites, and natural thermal springs that Ischia is known for.
Reaching Ischia involves a ferry or hydrofoil journey, as there are no air or land connections to the island. Hydrofoils from Naples provide a swift 50-minute trip to Ischia’s main port. Other departure points include Positano and various other islands.
While Ischia is a relatively small island, forty-eight hours allows for a good overview of its main attractions, especially if you maintain a moderate pace. For a more relaxed exploration, allowing three to five days would provide ample time to fully absorb the island’s atmosphere and explore its offerings.
Ischia is celebrated for its picturesque vistas and its predominantly rural character, contrasting with the more built-up nature of some other islands in the Campanian Archipelago. Its romantic ambiance makes it a popular choice for honeymoons in Italy.
Day one exploration
Begin your Ischia exploration at one of the island’s exceptional gardens. The Garden of Mortella is a standout, cascading down a cliffside with magnificent views of the port of Forio and the sea. This meticulously designed park, created in the 1950s, features large water lily ponds, charming follies, and even a restaurant on site.
A short drive south of the Gardens of Mortella leads you to Forio, the island’s second-largest settlement. While not as visually striking as Ischia’s main port, Forio is worth exploring. A notable attraction is Il Torrione, a historic tower that you can climb for a small fee, offering panoramic views.
Forio also offers robust dining options, making it an ideal spot for lunch. Consider restaurants like La Locanda del Gusto or Bistro Sorrento for a taste of local cuisine. Here, even young Lily enjoyed her pasta, a rare but welcome sight on vacation.
For those with a deep appreciation for botanical wonders, Giardini Ravino presents a unique collection of cacti and succulents. Situated between Sant’Angelo and Forio, this garden also features a café offering light meals, such as a refreshing Caprese salad that Michael particularly enjoyed. While the garden can be explored in about 45 minutes, Giardini la Mortella is generally prioritized for its broader appeal if time is limited.
An unforgettable natural experience awaits at the thermal springs of Baia di Sorgeto. These naturally heated pools in the sea offer a unique and relaxing bathing experience. Reaching these springs requires a hike down a set of stairs, but the reward is the opportunity to soak in warm waters right by the shoreline.
The thermal waters at Baia di Sorgeto are naturally hot, with temperatures varying throughout the cove. It’s advisable to test the water temperature before fully immersing yourself.
Sant’Angelo, a former fishing village transformed into a charming resort, is another must-visit. This picturesque town is known for its clear waters, boutiques, and a distinctive beach connecting the mainland to a small islet just offshore. Wandering through its piazza, relaxing on the beach, or browsing local shops like Il Pirata for pottery or Le Signorine for clothing are popular activities.
Conclude your first day with dinner at La Sosta di Bacco. This restaurant, set in a rural part of Ischia, serves traditional Ischian dishes accompanied by local wines against a backdrop of mountains and sea. Reservations are highly recommended due to its intimate size and popularity with locals. The menu often includes vegetarian options, catering to diverse dietary needs.
The second day centers on the eastern side of Ischia, which often presents a more traditionally scenic landscape.
Day two discoveries
For the adventurous, climbing Mount Epomeo, the island’s highest peak at 789 meters, offers a rewarding physical challenge and spectacular views. The hike typically begins in the village of Serrara Fontana.
The Port of Ischia itself is a hub of activity with numerous shops, beaches, and dining establishments. A stroll around the port area will occupy a couple of hours, providing a good opportunity to soak in the island’s daily rhythm. Here, Ethan managed to find a gelato that satisfied his discerning palate.
A major highlight is the Castello Aragonese d’Ischia, a magnificent medieval castle situated on its own islet just off the coast. Connected by a bridge, the castle has a history dating back to the 5th century BCE. Visitors should wear comfortable shoes to navigate the many stairs and explore its ramparts and interiors.
Within the castle complex, the nun’s cemetery, associated with the Poor Clares Convent that occupied the castle in the 17th century, offers a unique and somber insight into past monastic life. The chairs where nuns would sit during their vigils are still visible, a stark reminder of their devotion.
Visit Castello Aragonese earlier in the day to avoid the largest crowds and the midday heat, especially during summer months.
No visit to the Bay of Naples region is complete without sampling authentic pizza. Peccati di Gola, located near the Port of Ischia, is highly recommended for its exceptional Neapolitan-style pizzas. A piping hot margherita pizza to go is a perfect casual lunch option.
Enjoy some beach time at one of Ischia’s free beaches. Spiaggia di San Montano, while primarily featuring lidos, has a designated free area. It provides a pleasant spot to relax by the sea without the cost of renting loungers.
Conclude your Ischia journey with a boat excursion, offering a different perspective of the island’s crystalline waters and rugged coastline. This is a magical way to appreciate the island’s natural beauty from the sea.
| Attraction | Location | Key Feature | Estimated Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Giardini la Mortella | Near Forio | Lush botanical gardens, sea views | 2-3 hours |
| Castello Aragonese | Ischia Ponte | Medieval castle, history, views | 2-3 hours |
| Baia di Sorgeto | Southwestern coast | Natural thermal pools in the sea | 2+ hours |
| Sant’Angelo | Southern coast | Charming fishing village, beach | 2-3 hours |
Getting around Ischia
Renting a car on Ischia is generally not recommended due to extremely limited parking. Instead, consider renting a scooter for a more flexible experience, though be prepared for narrow roads and spirited Italian driving. The bus system is another convenient and affordable option, with tickets costing around €1.60. Remember to validate your bus ticket immediately upon boarding to avoid potential fines.
Bus schedules on Ischia can be subject to ‘Italian time,’ meaning they may not always adhere strictly to published timetables. Patience is key.
Where to stay on Ischia
Accommodation choices on Ischia are plentiful, particularly if you have your own transportation. Staying on the eastern side of the island can offer stunning views of Castello Aragonese. Given the island’s compact size, travel between different sides typically takes between 30 to 40 minutes.
Ischia provides a refreshing escape with its blend of natural beauty, historical sites, and thermal relaxation. It’s an island that rewards the traveler seeking a less crowded yet equally captivating Italian experience.