The Venice Biennale is a truly unique experience, and planning a visit can feel like navigating an art world within an art world. This year, the focus is on the Art Biennale, running from April 23rd to November 27th, 2022. It’s a massive undertaking, with a rich history dating back to 1895. The event has grown significantly since its inception, and understanding its different facets, from the country pavilions to its historical sites, is key to making the most of your trip.
Exploring the Main Venues
The Biennale is primarily spread across two major locations: the Giardini and the Arsenale. These are the historic heart of the exhibition and offer distinct atmospheres for experiencing the art.
The Giardini
The Giardini, meaning “gardens,” is a large park that has been a central part of the Biennale since its early days. Established in 1810, it was once a more private space, but has been better maintained in recent years, making it a pleasant area to wander. You’ll find many national pavilions situated here, creating a sort of international village within the city.
The Giardini started as a park and has hosted national pavilions for many decades.
Walking through the Giardini feels like taking a mini world tour. Each country’s pavilion is designed to reflect its unique artistic identity, offering a diverse range of visual and conceptual experiences. It’s fascinating to see how different nations choose to present their artists and their perspectives on the world stage.
The Arsenale
The Arsenale, on the other hand, is a vast shipyard dating back to the 12th century. It was once the largest industrial complex in Europe and played a crucial role in Venice’s maritime power. Today, this historic industrial space is transformed into a dynamic exhibition area for the Biennale. The sheer scale of the Arsenale, with its long, imposing structures, provides a dramatic backdrop for contemporary art installations.
📍 Visiting the Giardini and Arsenale requires separate tickets for each day.
The contrast between the open, park-like setting of the Giardini and the enclosed, historical industrial spaces of the Arsenale offers a varied experience. You’ll find that art presented in the Arsenale often feels more monumental or site-specific due to the environment.
Discovering the National Pavilions
One of the most exciting aspects of the Venice Biennale is the opportunity to explore the country pavilions. Over the years, 27 countries have built their own dedicated spaces within the Giardini and other locations. This allows each nation to curate a distinct exhibition, showcasing their artists and giving a glimpse into their cultural landscape.
A Global Showcase
When you visit the pavilions, it genuinely feels like a world trip. You can move from Australia to France, then perhaps to Germany and on to Korea. The art displayed often reflects contemporary global issues and artistic trends. For instance, the text mentions how in a previous year, the Israeli pavilion featured a representation of an emergency hospital amidst heightened tensions with neighboring regions.
This year’s Biennale, with its theme “The Milk of Dreams,” curated by Italian Cecilia Alemani, focuses on identity, technology, and society. It’s notable for featuring works by 213 artists, with 58 countries participating, and a significant presence of female artists. This emphasis on female artists is a powerful statement and offers a chance to see a wider range of perspectives.
Notable Pavilions
Belgium holds the distinction of being the first country to establish a pavilion. The Dutch pavilion, designed by Gerrit Rietveld, was inaugurated in 1954. It underwent a significant restoration in 1995. South Korea built their pavilion in 1996, marking the last country to construct a dedicated space in the Giardini.
Countries that don’t have their own pavilion in the Giardini still have opportunities to exhibit. They can present their work in other spaces like the Arsenale or utilize vacant palaces spread throughout the city. This ensures that even more nations can participate and share their artistic voices.
What is the theme this year?
The 2022 Art Biennale’s theme is “The Milk of Dreams.”
This theme is inspired by a children’s book by Leonora Carrington, exploring magical worlds and identity.
When I visited the Belgian pavilion, I saw several short films by Francis Abys. The American pavilion showcased beautiful work by Simone Leigh. It’s worth paying close attention to the details, even the white walls, as the German pavilion exhibited this year.
The French pavilion was transformed into a film set by Zineb Sedira. Inside, I found old film canisters, a recreated 1960s cafe, and a furnished living room from that era. It felt almost like stepping back in time.
The Canadian pavilion was particularly impactful. Stan Douglas presented sharp photographs documenting significant social movements like the Occupy movement in New York, riots in London and Vancouver, and the Arab Spring in Tunisia. These images are very powerful and thought-provoking.
There’s also a large elephant sculpture in the central pavilion. It reminded me of a story about a real elephant named Toni who was once known as ‘the prisoner of the Giardini’.
The Netherlands lent its pavilion to Estonia this year and exhibited in the Chiesetta della Misericordia.
For the Netherlands’ contribution this year, they lent their pavilion to Estonia and found a new space in the Chiesetta della Misericordia. To get there, you can take vaporetto line 1 and alight at Ca’ d’Oro. Here, the artist melanie bonajo presents a film titled “When the body says yes.” The film explores themes of the body and identity, with people pouring oil over each other and discussing their bodies. You can watch it while comfortably lying on soft cushions, which I found to be a very unique and relaxing way to engage with the film.
Practical Information for Your Visit
Planning your visit to the Venice Biennale requires a bit of practical consideration, especially regarding tickets and transportation. While the event is spread out, the main venues are the Giardini and the Arsenale.
⚡ Quick Tips
- Buy tickets online in advance to save time.
- A single ticket typically grants one day in the Giardini and one day in the Arsenale.
- Check opening hours, as they can vary seasonally.
To avoid long queues, it’s highly recommended to purchase your tickets online before your visit. The ticket structure usually allows for one day of access to the Giardini and another separate day for the Arsenale. It’s important to note this distinction when planning your itinerary.
Getting Around
From Piazzale Roma, the most convenient way to reach the Biennale venues is by taking the ferry, or vaporetto. Look for lines 5.1, 5.2, 4.1, 4.2, or 6. Line 6 is the fastest and directs you towards the Biennale area, though it might not stop directly at the Arsenale. From the Giardini stop, it’s about a ten-minute walk to the Arsenale entrance.
If you prefer to see the city from the water and don’t mind a more leisurely journey, take line 1. This slower route stops at many key points along the Grand Canal, offering views of landmarks like the Rialto Bridge. It’s a beautiful way to experience Venice while en route to the exhibition.
| Vaporetto Line | Route/Notes |
|---|---|
| 5.1, 5.2, 4.1, 4.2 | Direct routes towards the Biennale area. |
| 6 | Fastest route to the Biennale. |
| 1 | Slower route along the Grand Canal, scenic with many stops. |
My personal preference is often to take the vaporetto to one of the Biennale sites and then walk back. You can stroll along the “Riva degli Schiavoni” promenade, which leads towards Piazza San Marco. From there, you can navigate through the smaller calles (streets) of Venice, keeping an eye out for signs pointing towards Piazzale Roma.
What are the opening hours?
From April to September, the Biennale is open daily from 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM.
From October onwards, the closing time shifts to 6:00 PM daily.
It’s also worth noting that the Architecture Biennale takes place in alternate years. Next year, from May 20th to November 26th, it will be held with the theme ‘The Laboratory of the Future,’ curated by Lesley Lokko. This offers another excellent reason to plan a return trip to Venice.
My trip to the Biennale with Michael and the kids was a wonderful experience. Even though Ethan, our youngest at four, found some of the art a bit abstract, Lily, our seven-year-old, was fascinated by the sheer variety and the different colors. We made sure to balance our art exploration with breaks, enjoying gelato near the Giardini and letting them run around a bit in the wider park spaces.
Attending the Venice Biennale is an opportunity to witness a global dialogue of art and culture. The juxtaposition of contemporary creativity against Venice’s historic backdrop creates an unforgettable visitor experience. It’s a place to reflect on the world and how artists interpret it, a journey that stays with you long after you leave.