Italy always has a way of surprising me, even after all these years. My recent three-week journey with Michael was a wonderful exploration of varied landscapes and rich history. We focused on experiencing different facets of Italy, from bustling larger cities to charming smaller towns.
Our shared love for museums, particularly those with a historical bent, was a major guide. Michael, ever the photographer, found endless inspiration around every corner. While we certainly enjoy delicious food, we’re not the type to plan our days around specific restaurants. My grasp of Italian is pretty good, though in most tourist areas, English is widely understood and spoken.
Bologna: A Taste of Emilia-Romagna
Our arrival in Bologna was a bit of a squeeze. The Marconi Express into the city was packed, and we had to wait for a second shuttle, which was equally full. Once settled, we found an excellent dinner at Trattoria Nonna Griglia, followed by a lovely evening stroll through Piazza Maggiore.
The next day was all about embracing Bologna’s unique atmosphere. We wandered beneath its iconic porticoes, visited the grand Basilica di San Petronio, and took a guided tour of the Archiginnasio Palace. The Anatomical Theatre was particularly fascinating, offering a glimpse into historical education.
For lunch, simple takeaway sandwiches from Salumeria Simoni, enjoyed while people-watching in the piazza, were perfect. Bologna felt so alive, a place where it’s easy to just let the day unfold.
On our last morning, we visited Palazzo Poggi, which was free due to renovations, and the university’s botanical garden. Though the garden was pleasant, it didn’t quite match the beauty of those back home. We spent the afternoon catching up on a few things at our apartment before a relaxed dinner.
Desenzano del Garda: Lakeside Charms
Our morning in Bologna included a visit to the Pinacoteca, a surprisingly uncrowded gem with an amazing collection, and the Luigi Cattaneo anatomical collection. We grabbed sandwiches from La Prosciutteria for our train journey to Desenzano del Garda.
Upon arriving, we took a leisurely walk along the lake, capturing the beautiful scenery. Dinner was at Osteria Sapore Divino.
The next day started with delicious sandwiches from Panificio Non Sole Pane. We then took a ferry to Malcesine, a town that, while busy near the port, offered quiet escapes just a few blocks uphill.
Castello Scaligero provided breathtaking views, a constant delight for Michael’s camera. We enjoyed gelato and took countless photos of the stunning landscape. Back in Desenzano, a local street food festival provided a lively and tasty dinner with live music.
Padua: A Brief but Memorable Stop
Our ferry trip to Sirmione was a little disappointing. We found it overwhelmingly crowded and struggled to find an authentic place to eat, feeling like we were in a tourist trap. We cut our visit short and returned to Desenzano.
Plans shifted due to a train strike, so we decided to leave Lake Garda a day early and head to Padua for a night.
We arrived in Padua in the evening, had dinner near our Airbnb, and retired for the night.
Venice: Magic on the Water
Our morning in Padua allowed us to visit the Cappella degli Scrovegni, an absolute masterpiece, and the Basilica di Sant’Antonio. The Eremitani Museum was interesting for those who love local history.
In the evening, we enjoyed aperitivo with a local friend before catching our train to Venice. Arriving late, we walked to our B&B as the water taxis were expensive and the vaporetti had stopped for the night. It was a peaceful, albeit damp, introduction to the city.
Venice, a place I’d anticipated might be challenging with crowds, turned out to be a highlight. Waking early allowed us to experience the quiet beauty of places like the Rialto Bridge before the world awoke.
We spent our days exploring the labyrinthine back alleys, getting wonderfully lost. The Hidden Doge’s Palace tour was a fantastic alternative to the sold-out Secret Itineraries tour.
Dinner at Osteria Ai Promessi Sposo was recommended by our host and was truly memorable. We retired early, content.
A day trip took us to Murano and Burano. The rain in the morning made Murano more tranquil, and we enjoyed the Glass Museum. Sunshine on Burano brought swarms of people, making it feel overwhelmingly crowded, so we decided to head back.
Our evening in Venice was spent with a lightning show backdrop on the Fondamenta de la Misericordia, followed by some of the best gelato of our trip at Bacaro del Gelato.
Ravenna: A Mosaic of History
Another early start let us see the Ponte dell’Accademia before the crowds descended. Venice at sunrise is pure magic, and witnessing the city’s unique logistics, like the early morning barge deliveries, was fascinating.
We visited Palazzo Mocenigo, a treat for any lover of historical fashion, before wandering through Cannaregio. We then caught our train to Ravenna, arriving in the early evening and enjoying dinner at Osteria dei Battibecchi.
Our dedicated day in Ravenna was spent exploring its incredible mosaics. We saw all five sites included in the combined ticket, plus a few others. The Neonian Baptistery, with its more intimate scale, was my personal favorite.
We savored piadinas for lunch at Profumo di Piadina and had an excellent dinner at Trattoria Al Cerchio. It was wonderful to have the time to absorb the city’s art at our own pace.
Naples: Vibrant Energy and Ancient Echoes
After breakfast, we traveled to Naples by train. A delay gave us a partial refund from Trenitalia, a small silver lining. Our first Neapolitan experience was an incredible pizza at Pizzeria e Trattoria Sannino.
Though our hotel was on the busy Via Toledo, the crowds dispersed outside of peak hours, and we felt completely at ease.
We spent a day exploring Chiaia and took in the panoramic views from Castello Sant’Elmo. Fried pizza from Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo was a must-try lunch, followed by a fascinating tour of the Galleria Borbonica.
A day trip to the Royal Palace of Caserta was a highlight. We indulged in amazing sfogliatelle from F.lli Chirico dal 1996 before visiting the palace, which, while inspired by Versailles, felt more accessible with fewer crowds. The gardens were lovely, though not as grand as Versailles.
Pompeii was an unforgettable day. We arrived early, pre-purchased tickets, and opted for audioguides when a guided tour group didn’t form. We spent eight hours exploring, doubling back to truly soak in the history.
On a rainy day, we visited the National Archaeological Museum, a perfect complement to our Pompeii visit. The quality and sheer volume of artifacts were impressive.
We strolled through Spaccanapoli and Via San Gregorio Armeno, admiring the presepi, before a final, delicious dinner at Na Bona Furchetta Trattoria.
Sorrento: Coastal Beauty and Ancient Sites
Our last morning in Naples included another delicious fried pizza and an insightful tour of Teatro San Carlo. After lunch, we took the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento.
The weather in Sorrento was poor, so we spent the day doing laundry and relaxing at our hotel before dinner at Taverna Dell’800.
The early morning bus to Amalfi was packed, even off-season. Amalfi itself was very crowded, so after a coffee and some photos, we hiked to the Paper Mill Museum, a much quieter and very interesting experience.
The Amalfi Coast is undeniably stunning, and I’m glad we saw it, though the crowds at the end of the season were a bit much.
We decided against Capri due to our experience in Amalfi and instead visited Herculaneum. The train journey was unexpectedly long and complicated, but Herculaneum itself was a peaceful and fascinating archaeological site. I’d recommend an audioguide for better context.
We returned to Sorrento and enjoyed dinner at Chantecler Trattoria, followed by gelato from Raki.
Rome: A Familiar Favorite, Rediscovered
Our return to Rome was truly magical. The weather was perfect, and without the pressure to see everything, we embraced a more relaxed pace.
We arrived from Sorrento around lunchtime and spent the afternoon exploring the architectural wonders of Quartiere Coppede. Dinner was at Trattoria Tritone 1884, near the still-bustling Trevi Fountain.
The Capitoline Museums were incredible and blessedly uncrowded. We then wandered through the Jewish Quarter, enjoying flatbread pizza at Forno del Ghetto.
We saw the cat colony at Largo di Torre Argentina, enjoyed gelato from Gelateria Artigianale Corona, and made our way to Janiculum Hill for sunset before dinner in Trastevere.
Our tickets for Galleria Borghese were for the morning, so we enjoyed the gardens beforehand. The villa’s art was stunning, though by this point in our trip, we were experiencing a bit of art fatigue.
We visited Santa Maria Maggiore, joining a queue of pilgrims, which was well worth the wait. Last-minute souvenir shopping followed, and our final Roman dinner at Al Gallinaccio included some of the best roast potatoes I’ve ever tasted.
Our flight home departed mid-morning, so we took the Leonardo Express from Termini station to FCO, arriving with plenty of time.
Italy truly captivated us with its diverse history and culture. This trip reaffirmed our love for smaller, less-crowded cities like Bologna, Padua, and Ravenna, and for discovering lesser-known museums and historical sites. I’m already dreaming of our next Italian adventure.
Frequently Asked Questions
How did you manage the crowds?
We found that waking up early was the best strategy. Visiting popular attractions before 8 or 9 am often meant significantly fewer people. We also sometimes chose less crowded alternatives or visited during off-peak times of the day.
What were your favorite unexpected discoveries?
Ravenna’s mosaics were a profound and beautiful surprise. Also, the Galleria Borbonica in Naples offered a unique and slightly eerie glimpse into history.
Were there any places you’d skip on a future trip?
While we appreciated the beauty of the Amalfi Coast, the intense crowds made it less enjoyable for us. Sirmione also felt a bit too geared towards mass tourism for our taste.
How did your Italian language skills help?
Even a basic understanding can enhance interactions, especially in smaller towns or when dealing with local services. It allowed for more meaningful connections, though English was always an option.
What advice would you give to other couples traveling to Italy?
Embrace the spontaneity. While having a plan is good, be open to changes and discovering hidden gems. Don’t try to see everything; focus on enjoying the experience and the unique atmosphere of each place.
References
Trattoria Nonna Griglia
Archiginnasio Palace
Salumeria Simoni
Osteria Sapore Divino
Castello Scaligero
If Italy is calling your name, perhaps this glimpse into our journey will inspire your own explorations. Share your favorite Italian discoveries or what you’re most excited to see in the comments below!