The region of Valpolicella, just outside Verona, feels like stepping into a classic Italian postcard. It’s a place where ancient winemaking traditions meet a burgeoning sense of innovation, all set against a backdrop of rolling hills dotted with vineyards. While Verona itself is famous for its Roman amphitheater and Shakespearean romance, the true heart of this area for me has always been its wine and the warm hospitality of its people. We planned our 2026 visit with a focus on exploring smaller, family-run estates and soaking in the local culture, ready for some incredible food and, of course, plenty of wine.
Exploring Valpolicella Wine Country
Valpolicella is exclusively a red wine region, historically known for its lighter, more approachable styles. However, the reputation has shifted dramatically in recent years, with many producers now crafting some of Italy’s most esteemed reds. It’s this blend of tradition and modernity that makes it such an exciting destination for any traveler interested in wine and Italian cuisine.
Discovering Diverse Wine Styles
The key grape here is Corvina, its intense character forming the backbone of Valpolicella wines. It’s often blended with other local varieties like Rondinella, Molinara, and Corvinone, resulting in a spectrum of flavors and styles. Whether you prefer a light and refreshing Valpolicella Classico or a powerful Amarone, there’s something to suit every palate and budget.
We learned that Amarone is particularly special. Its grapes are dried for three to four months before fermentation, a process known as ‘passito,’ which concentrates their sugars and flavors. This is followed by extensive aging, often in oak, for at least three years. The result is a rich, full-bodied wine with a high alcohol content, sometimes even reaching 17% – a true taste of tradition and dedication.
What is Amarone wine?
Amarone is a powerful, complex red wine made from dried grapes, offering concentrated flavors and a higher alcohol content compared to traditional Valpolicella.
It’s a wine that truly demands contemplation, perfect after a day of exploring the vineyards.
The Role of Ripasso
Another fascinating style we encountered is Valpolicella Ripasso. This method involves macerating the grape pomace (the skins and seeds left after the first fermentation) with young Valpolicella wine. This process adds significant body, color, and complexity, creating a wine that sits beautifully between a classic Valpolicella and a full Amarone.
How is Ripasso made?
Ripasso wine is made by refermenting Valpolicella wine on the leftover grape skins from Amarone production.
This technique imparts richer flavors and a more robust structure to the wine.
Wineries to Visit
One of the real joys of Valpolicella is the accessibility of its winemakers. Many are eager to share their passion, offering tastings and even B&Bs right on their estates. We made sure to visit a few that caught our eye, seeking out a mix of established names and newer, more experimental producers.
Le Bignele
Our first stop was Le Bignele, a small, nine-hectare vineyard that’s been in the Aldrighetti family since 1818. This place feels wonderfully rustic and authentic, a perfect introduction to the region. They produce exceptional value wines, and we found their Valpolicella Classico to be wonderfully fresh and easy to drink, ideal for a casual afternoon sampling.
Their Ripasso, aged with macerated grape pomace, was a revelation for its quality at such a reasonable price. And the Amarone? It was a generous pour, offering a taste of greatness without the premium price tag you often find elsewhere. Even their Recioto, a lusciously sweet dessert wine, was a perfect end to the tasting, pairing beautifully with some local almond cookies we’d picked up.
Tezza
The Tezza family’s 25-hectare estate is nestled in the Valpantena valley, a microclimate known for its ideal growing conditions. Their winery is a fascinating blend of old and new, with ancient cement cisterns sharing space with modern steel vats. The Tezza brothers, and now their sons, are committed to their own winemaking principles, preferring drier wines with plenty of tannin that can age gracefully, rather than following trends for sweeter styles. We really enjoyed their Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso, which had a wonderful intensity. Their Amarone, though a bit of an indulgence, was truly worth it, showcasing complex, aged notes.
Massimago
For something completely different, we sought out Massimago, managed by Camilla Rossi Chauvenet. She took over when she was just 20 and is a driving force for innovation in Valpolicella. This estate feels like a breath of fresh air, with Camilla intentionally breaking away from traditional styles. She focuses on a limited range, experimenting with rosé and sparkling varieties alongside a fresh, non-overpowering Amarone. It’s a winery that’s not trying to replicate the past but forge its own path.
The chance to create a personalized label was a fun touch, and the idea of commissioning classical music for each wine, to be enjoyed while tasting, is quite unique. They also offer a luxurious B&B, which, while pricey, boasts incredible vineyard views and spa facilities – a definite splurge for a special occasion.
Valentina Cubi
Valentina Cubi is another inspiring female winemaker, representing the new generation pushing boundaries. Her approach is deeply rooted in organic and biodynamic principles, which is still a rarity in Italy. We were particularly intrigued by her ‘Sin Cero’ valpolicella, an experimental wine made with absolutely no added sulphites. Valentina’s philosophy is that real Valpolicella should be uncomplicated, light, and easy to drink, even with a simple plate of charcuterie. It was wonderful to find a place where you could also purchase older vintages of Amarone at consistent prices, a rarity that highlights her fair-minded approach.
Dining Experiences
No trip to Valpolicella, or indeed Italy, is complete without indulging in the local cuisine. The food here is hearty, rustic, and perfectly complements the wines. We sought out traditional osterie and agriturismi for authentic tastes of the Veneto region.
Osteria Numero Uno
Osteria Numero Uno felt like stumbling upon a true local secret. The aromas wafting from the kitchen were intoxicating. This is the kind of place where winemakers themselves come to relax. We savored a glass of their house Valpolicella, a rustic red bought in demijohns, and also tried a more refined Amarone from a renowned local producer. The food was pure Veronese comfort: rich beef cheeks braised in Amarone served with creamy polenta, and the unforgettable pastissada de caval, a slow-cooked horsemeat stew that’s a regional specialty.
Antica Osteria Le Piere
In the heart of Mizzole village, Osteria Le Piere is housed in a historic stone building. The owner, Maurizio Poerio, is a passionate chef and wine lover. The menu faithfully sticks to local dishes, with seasonal additions like asparagus and wild game. What’s truly impressive here is the wine list, boasting over 250 bottles, all available by the glass. This is a fantastic way to sample a wide variety of wines without committing to a whole bottle. We started with a selection of delicious cured meats and cheeses, followed by homemade pasta and daily specials. It was a truly memorable meal, capped off by friendly conversation with Maurizio and the local regulars.
Vineyard Stays
For a truly immersive experience, staying at an agriturismo on a working farm or vineyard is ideal. It offers a chance to connect with the land and enjoy farm-to-table dining.
Agriturismo San Mattia
Perched high above Verona, Agriturismo San Mattia offers breathtaking views and so much more than just wine. It’s a fully functioning farm with animals, olive groves, and fruit trees. The young owner, Giovanni Ederle, has transformed a former greenhouse into a charming 14-room B&B. Here, almost everything is prepared on-site, from breakfast eggs to the creative five-course tasting menu, which beautifully showcases slow-cooked cuisine. Giovanni’s passion for Valpolicella is infectious, and his wines, overseen by a talented oenologist, are fresh and approachable, with his Amarone a particular standout.
Relais Antica Corte Al Molino
This agriturismo, despite its grand name, is a wonderfully rustic farmhouse surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. It offers comfortable rooms and spacious apartments, perfect for families like ours. Guests can use a shaded gazebo for picnics, or enjoy wine tastings featuring the Mazzi brothers’ wines. A short walk away leads to their cantina and family trattoria, housed in a historic building with a watermill. The four-course meals are a treat, particularly the risotto all’amarone. They also offer a special tasting menu where each course is paired with a different wine from their production. Their dark, sweet Recioto was a highlight, leaving us wanting to take a bottle home.
Regional Specialties
Beyond wine, Valpolicella boasts incredible regional produce and artisanal products. Exploring these culinary treasures adds another layer to the visitor experience.
Corrado Benedetti
Corrado Benedetti’s delicatessen is an absolute treasure trove for anyone interested in regional produce. You’ll find the finest salumi, prosciutto, and cheeses, alongside pickled vegetables and local grains. Corrado is passionate about sourcing the best, and his talents as an affineur are evident in products like his coppa ham marinated in Valpolicella Ripasso. The shop itself is part showroom, part tasting room, offering a fantastic tasting platter with a glass of Valpolicella for a modest price. His ‘Bosco Allegro’ picnic initiative, providing marinated ribs for grilling, is a brilliant idea for a countryside outing.
Frantoio Salvagno
While Valpolicella is renowned for its wine, olives are equally significant to the region’s culture. Frantoio Salvagno, just outside Verona, is a professional olive oil mill that has been pressing olives since 1923. It’s fascinating to see both the historic machinery still used by small cultivators and the modern, high-capacity production lines. Giovanni Salvagno and his daughters maintain a deep connection to the process, ensuring the quality of their olive oil, which is as much a part of the local heritage as the grapes.
Where can I find more Valpolicella information?
You can find more information on consorziovalpolicella.it and valpolicellaweb.it for planning your visit.
This region truly offers a complete sensory journey, from the nuanced aromas of its wines to the hearty flavors of its cuisine and the stunning landscapes that surround it. I’m already looking forward to our next visit in 2026.