Verona feels like stepping back in time, but with all the comforts of today. It’s easy to see why writers like Charles Dickens were so taken with it. Even after almost 200 years, the city retains its magic. From the ancient Roman structures to the colorful medieval streets, Verona offers a delightful blend of history and beauty. I visited in early autumn, which was perfect. The summer crowds had thinned out, the weather was still warm, and there was a local wine festival happening. It made exploring the city incredibly pleasant.
Discovering Verona’s Roman Roots
Your first stop should be Verona’s incredible Roman amphitheater, the Arena. It’s the third largest of its kind in Italy, and you can feel the weight of history as you walk through it. Imagine crowds of 20,000 people gathered here centuries ago for gladiator games and other spectacles. You can climb all the way to the top for a fantastic view. It’s truly awe-inspiring to stand where so much history unfolded.
Experiencing the Arena
The sheer scale of the Arena is impressive. Climbing the steep steps to the uppermost level offers a breathtaking panorama of the city stretching out before you. It’s a place where you can easily spend hours just soaking in the atmosphere and picturing life in Roman times. For those interested in the famous opera season, the Arena hosts spectacular performances under the stars, adding another layer to its historical significance.
Exploring Medieval and Renaissance Verona
Verona’s medieval streets are a dream to wander. The buildings are often a lovely pinkish hue, and many feature balconies overflowing with colorful flowers. You’ll find churches filled with exquisite Renaissance art, showcasing the city’s artistic heritage. This blend of architectural styles creates a unique and beautiful urban landscape.
A Stay with History
I found a wonderful boutique hotel, known as Il Relais, located in a 19th-century palazzo. It overlooks Castelvecchio, a massive Gothic castle built by the Scaliger family who once ruled the city. My room, one of only four, offered a direct view of the castle and a lovely perspective down a main street leading to the city’s heart. The room itself was a perfect mix of comfort and character, with elegant antique furnishings that spoke to its heritage as a grand townhouse.
The managers, Federica and Niami, were incredibly welcoming, treating guests like family. They offered fantastic advice on what to see and where to eat, making my stay even more enjoyable. They even suggested great spots for the kids to explore, like quiet piazzas perfect for a gelato break.
Where to stay in Verona
Consider a small, characterful hotel in a historic building.
Look for places with views of key landmarks.
Culinary Delights
For meals, I often dined at the hotel’s sister restaurant, Ristorante Locanda di Castelvecchio. The decor is a stylish mix of 19th-century elegance, Art Deco, and 1960s Italian design. Their roast trolley is a must-try, served with traditional Veronese peara sauce – a real showstopper! The staff, like Stefano, are passionate about the food and share fascinating stories about the restaurant’s history.
Even if you don’t opt for the roasts, the menu offers delicious choices. I particularly enjoyed the homemade fettucine with various sauces and the classic risotto made with amarone, a renowned local wine. The food here is a true reflection of the region’s rich culinary traditions, and even my picky eaters found something they loved on the menu.
What to eat in Verona
Don’t miss the traditional peara sauce.
Try the local risotto dishes.
Cultural and Literary Connections
Verona’s identity is deeply intertwined with literature, most famously Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. A visit to Casa di Giulietta, or Juliet’s House, is a classic experience. You can see the famous balcony that inspired so many scenes.
While it’s a very popular spot, it’s still worth seeing. I watched as many visitors, especially young women, participated in the tradition of touching the breast of Juliet’s statue, believed to bring luck in love. It adds a whimsical feel to the historical setting. Michael always joked about the romanticism, but even he admitted the history was fascinating.
Art and Gardens
Beyond the literary connections, Verona boasts impressive art and architecture. I visited the city’s Duomo (cathedral) and was struck by its beauty. Afterwards, I crossed the fast-flowing Adige River to explore Palazzo Giusti. This palazzo, with its stunning Renaissance gardens, was a highlight for me. The towering cypress trees are particularly memorable, having been admired by writers like Goethe.
The Giusti family lived in this opulent palazzo for centuries. Touring its rooms, I was particularly taken with The Red Room, named for its rich Chinese silk wall coverings. It was once the drawing-room of the last family member to reside there. The gardens themselves are a tranquil escape, perfect for a stroll with the children, who enjoyed searching for hidden statues among the greenery.
Verona’s historical attractions
See Juliet’s House and its famous balcony.
Explore the Giusti palace and its gardens.
Local Flavors and Festivals
During my autumn visit, I had the chance to experience Verona’s annual wine and harvest festival. It’s a wonderful opportunity to sample local produce and wines. I stumbled upon a delightful little square where a talented young artist was performing. Her modern renditions of popular songs drew quite a crowd.
These festivals bring the city to life in a unique way, allowing you to connect with local culture and traditions. It’s a great way to experience the city not just as a tourist, but as someone enjoying a local celebration. Lily was thrilled to try a sweet local pastry she’d never seen before, which made the experience special for her.
Getting Around Verona
Verona is a city best explored on foot. I found myself walking around six miles each day, discovering new corners and enjoying the atmosphere. The city center is compact and very walkable, making it easy to see many of the main sights without needing to rely heavily on transport. If you do need to go further, local buses are available.
How to explore Verona
Walk as much as possible to discover hidden details.
Use local buses for longer distances.
Planning Your Visit
Verona is a city that truly offers something for everyone. Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover, a romantic, or simply someone who enjoys beautiful scenery and delicious food, you’ll find plenty to captivate you. I know I’ll be returning, perhaps next time to experience one of the incredible opera nights at the Arena.
When you plan your trip for 2026, remember that early autumn offers a great balance of pleasant weather and fewer crowds. It’s a perfect time to enjoy the city at a relaxed pace, perhaps enjoying a leisurely breakfast before a day of exploring.
When is the best time to visit
Consider autumn for good weather.
Spring also offers pleasant conditions.
Verona is a truly special place that captivates the heart. Its beauty, history, and warm atmosphere make it a journey worth taking. I hope you get a chance to experience its magic for yourself.