I set my alarm for 5:30 AM on our first full day on the Amalfi Coast. That’s not something I do on vacation. But I had read that the Path of the Gods fills up fast, and I wanted to see it empty. Good instincts.
By the time I reached Nocelle, the day-trippers from Naples and Sorrento were just starting to pour off the ferries. I was already on my way down, with a full memory card and a quiet sense of smugness. The Amalfi Coast sees up to 8,000 daily visitors in August, but the trails feel like a different world. Especially early.
The Amalfi Coast recorded 564,981 visitors in 2023 — a 9% increase from 2019.
– Forbes
Is the Path of the Gods worth the early wake-up call? Yes. But the magic isn’t just the view—it’s the quiet. The coast below is a circus by noon, but up on the trail, you still get the old Amalfi. Go early, go prepared, and you’ll see what I mean.
The Path of the Gods: Why It’s Worth the Alarm Clock
The Sentiero degli Dei is the headline act. It runs roughly 8 kilometers (5 miles) from Bomerano to Nocelle, and it delivers exactly what the name promises: cliffside views of Positano, the Li Galli islands, and the sea stretching out to Capri. The trail is ancient, with roots dating back to the Roman era, and you can feel it in the worn stone steps underfoot.
It’s rated moderate, and the full hike takes 3 to 5 hours depending on how often you stop for photos. For me, that was often. The trail connects Bomerano to Nocelle, and from there you can descend into Positano. I started at dawn, when the light was soft and the only sounds were my footsteps and the occasional goat bell. By 9 AM, I had the trail nearly to myself. By 11, it was a parade.
The Lemon Path: A Market Trail Through the Groves
If the Path of the Gods is the grand spectacle, the Sentiero dei Limoni (Lemon Path) is the intimate backstage tour. This trail connects Maiori and Minori, winding through terraced lemon groves and past tiny stone cottages. It’s shorter and less strenuous than the Path of the Gods, but it offers something different: a close-up look at the agricultural life that built this coast. The path is lined with lemon trees, and the scent is incredible.
It also drops you right into the middle of two working towns. Minori, in particular, has a lovely morning market where locals pick up their produce. If you’re traveling with kids, this is a gentler option. My family found the stone steps manageable, and the lemon groves kept everyone curious. You finish the hike hungry and ready for a real Italian lunch, which is exactly how you should experience the coast.
Catch the first SITA bus of the day to Bomerano to start the Path of the Gods before the crowds. The early bus runs from Amalfi and Positano, and it drops you at the trailhead before the tourist rush begins.
Timing the Trail: When to Visit and What to Pay
Every local expert I spoke to—and I read a lot of takes before this trip—pointed to the same window: April, May, September, and October. The weather is mild (15-25°C), the trails are quieter, and accommodation prices drop by 30-50% compared to August.
The new Salerno Costa d’Amalfi airport is making access easier, but it’s also expected to push visitor numbers even higher. That makes the early start strategy more essential than ever. Costs vary widely. A SITA bus ride costs about €2, and a ferry between towns runs €8-15. A seafood lunch in a family-run trattoria in Praiano might set you back €20-35. In peak season, a sea-view room in Positano can hit €800 a night. Base yourself in a town like Praiano or Atrani instead.
Public transportation along the Amalfi Coast is not as reliable as travelers from the US might expect. Buses sometimes pass by when full, and ferries can be canceled due to weather. Always have a backup plan and check the SITA bus schedule the night before.
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What I Packed for the Amalfi Coast Trails
The single most important item is good footwear. The trails are steep, uneven, and often slippery from morning dew. I wore sturdy trail runners with good grip, but proper hiking boots would have been smart for the rougher sections of the Path of the Gods.
I also carried a Samsonite Classic Leather Slim Backpack as a daypack—it held my camera, a 2-liter water bottle, snacks, and a light jacket without feeling bulky. I tracked the hikes on a Garmin Fenix 8 Solar, which was useful for navigation and battery life. Sun protection is non-negotiable: hat, sunglasses, and high-SPF sunscreen. The Mediterranean sun is intense even in spring.
Is the Path of the Gods suitable for beginners?
Yes, if you’re reasonably fit. The trail is well-marked and not technically challenging, but there are steep sections and uneven stone steps. Allow 3-5 hours and take breaks.
Can I rely on public transport to get to the trailheads?
Public transport along the Amalfi Coast is not as reliable as travelers from the US might expect. Buses sometimes pass by when full, and ferries can be canceled due to weather. Plan backup options and check schedules daily.
What is the best time of year to hike the Amalfi Coast?
April, May, September, and October offer the best balance of good weather and manageable crowds. July and August are too hot and crowded for a pleasant hike.
One Trail, Two Worlds
The Amalfi Coast is often described as a single destination, but it’s really two places. There’s the crowded seaside strip, and then there’s the network of ancient trails that connect the villages above it. Walking the Path of the Gods or the Lemon Path feels less like sightseeing and more like entering the real working landscape of the coast. The best part? You don’t have to compete for a spot. You just have to wake up early enough to take it. For another perspective on the quieter side of the coast, read about the coastal trail from Praiano to Positano.
Sources and further reading
Rebecca Hughes. “The Amalfi Coast Is Set To Be Even Busier In 2025, Here Are An Expert’s Top Tips.” Forbes, 2024. 🔗
Take Your Backpack. “Hike Amalfi Coast.” 🔗
Macs Adventure. “Guide to Hiking Amalfi Coast.” 🔗
Amalfi Coastyle. “Is The Amalfi Coast Worth It? Honest Guide For Tourists (Costs, Crowds & Tips).” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
A Guesthouse in Minori — Why staying in a smaller town gives you better access to the Lemon Path and local life.
A Family Trip to Italy’s Amalfi Coast — Practical tips for navigating the trails and towns with kids in tow.