I woke up to the sound of wooden hulls knocking against each other in Cetara’s tiny harbour. The air smelled of salt, diesel, and something deeper — the sharp, briny scent of anchovies being unloaded just metres from where I stood. A fisherman in a blue sweater hosed down the deck while his colleague stacked terzigno barrels on the quay. Nobody rushed. It could have been 1950, or 1850. That rhythm, I later learned, is the whole point of this place.
The same colatura di alici that fed Roman legions is still made here, in the same oak barrels, by the same families — just with a Slow Food Presidium certificate now.
Cetara is worth visiting if you want to taste something genuinely ancient — Colatura di Alici DOP — and experience a working fishing village that hasn’t sold out to souvenir shops. It’s not a party town, and that’s exactly why it works.
Food & history lovers
Solo travelers seeking quiet
Photographers who prefer real life over curated views
The Art of Colatura di Alici, Unchanged for Millennia
This amber liquid is Cetara’s claim to fame, and its production follows a rhythm that hasn’t changed in over two thousand years.
The season runs late March to July. Anchovies are caught within a few miles of Cetara’s coast and brought directly to the dock. Marky’s explains the full cycle.
Anchovies are salted within 24 hours of landing, then layered with coarse sea salt in traditional terzigno barrels and pressed under a weighted wooden lid called terpagno.
The barrels sit in cool storerooms while the salt draws out moisture. Over months, a deep amber liquid forms as the anchovies slowly ferment.
The liquid is drained off — that’s the colatura di alici. It’s bottled and shipped, often to restaurants across Europe that pay top euro for the real DOP stuff.
The Colatura di Alici di Cetara holds Protected Designation of Origin (DOP) status, which means any bottle with that label was made within a defined area using traditional methods. It’s also recognized by Slow Food Presidium — a mark of artisanal, sustainable production. Professor Vincenzo Peretti led a certification session about this very topic at Alimentaria 2026 in Barcelona, where Cetara was the star of Campania’s seafood delegation.
Cetara: Italy’s Capital of the Sea 2026
In 2026, Cetara was nominated as Italian Capital of the Sea — a title that honors its authentic maritime identity, environmental sustainability, and commitment to passing on traditional sea trades.
The nomination had broad support from Ravello, Positano, and other Amalfi Coast towns. The bid highlighted four pillars: maritime tradition, gastronomic culture linked to the sea, training and transmission of sea trades, and protection of coastal landscapes. It’s a rare case where the award fits the place perfectly. Cetara doesn’t try to be a resort — it’s a real fishing port that happens to be beautiful.
Boat tours from Salerno or other coastal villages are the best way to reach Cetara by sea. They also let you swim in coves that are inaccessible from the road. Amalfi Coast Lovers offers tours with WhatsApp booking — handy if you’re planning ahead.
Eating in Cetara: Where Tradition Tastes Like Itself
You don’t come to Cetara for a fancy tasting menu. You come for spaghetti that tastes of the sea — literally — and nothing else.
The signature dish is spaghetti con colatura di alici. It’s a minimalist pasta: just garlic, chili flakes, olive oil, and a few tablespoons of that fermented anchovy liquid. The result is deep umami without being fishy. Nearly every trattoria along the main street serves it. I ate it three times in two days and would happily do it again.
Colatura di alici is also sold by the bottle in local shops. It keeps indefinitely in the fridge and works as a substitute for fish sauce in everything from salad dressings to stews. Buy a small bottle — one lasts months.
I brought my lightweight drone (DJI Mini 4K) to capture the harbor from above. It’s under 249g so no registration needed, and the 4K video stabilized on the 3-axis gimbal made the boat movements look like a documentary. The vertical shots of the terzigno barrels lined up on the pier are my favourite from the whole trip.
Getting to Cetara and Practical Logistics
Cetara sits on the Amalfi Coast between Vietri sul Mare and Salerno, which makes it easier to reach than the hilltop towns — but it still requires some planning.
By car: The SS163 Amalfi Drive winds right through Cetara. Parking is limited; look for the paid lots just before the tunnel entering town. If you’re driving the full coast, read my guide to driving the Amalfi Coast’s scenic views — it covers exactly where to stop and what to expect.
By bus: Sita buses run from Salerno (40 minutes) and Amalfi (25 minutes). The stop is near the harbour. Buses can be crowded in summer; a DIY vs tour comparison I wrote may help decide which transport mode suits your travel style.
By boat: Seasonal ferry services connect Cetara with Salerno, Maiori, and Minori. It’s the most scenic arrival, and you can often spot fishing boats at work along the way. Book through local tour operators or show up early at the dock.
Summer weekends can bring day-trippers from Salerno, but it’s never the crush of Positano. The real bottleneck is parking — if you drive, arrive before 10am or accept that you might circle the block. Also, many restaurants close on Wednesdays in low season.
- Cetara’s colatura di alici is made exactly as it was in Roman times — same barrels, same salt, same timing.
- The village was nominated Italian Capital of the Sea 2026 for its authentic maritime culture, not for hype.
- Plan to eat spaghetti con colatura at least once, and buy a bottle to take home.
Before You Visit Cetara
How long should I spend in Cetara?
Half a day is enough to see the harbour, eat a meal, and walk the main street. If you want to take a boat tour or hike the coastal trail to Vietri, plan a full day. Overnight stays are quiet — only a handful of B&Bs.
Is Cetara expensive?
No — it’s one of the more affordable spots on the Amalfi Coast. A plate of spaghetti con colatura runs around €12–15. Bottles of colatura di alici in local shops cost €8–15 depending on size. Parking is €2–3 per hour.
What’s the downside of Cetara?
It’s quiet. If you want nightlife, shopping, or big views like Ravello’s, Cetara isn’t for you. The beach is tiny and mostly used by fishing boats. Also, English is less widely spoken here than in Positano or Amalfi — brush up on basic Italian phrases.
When is the best time to visit Cetara?
May–June and September–October are ideal: pleasant weather, fewer tourists, and the fishing season is active. July–August can be hot and crowded, though still manageable. Winter many restaurants close, but you’ll see the colatura extraction in December.
Can I take a cooking class in Cetara?
Some local agriturismi offer colatura-based cooking demonstrations, but they’re not as common as in larger towns. Ask at your accommodation or contact the boat tour operators via WhatsApp — they sometimes arrange food-focused trips.
Why Cetara Stayed With Me
I left Cetara on a late afternoon ferry, the harbour shrinking to a cluster of terracotta roofs and fishing nets. The whole visit lasted less than 36 hours, yet it’s the part of my Amalfi Coast trip I replay most. Not because it was beautiful — though it was — but because it was unapologetically itself. In a region that’s learning to perform for Instagram, Cetara just keeps gutting anchovies and filling barrels. That rhythm, I think, is the truest luxury left. For more hidden corners of the Amalfi Coast, see my guide to exploring Italy’s stunning Amalfi Coast and its hidden gems.
Sources and further reading
Amalfi Experience. “Cetara takes centre stage at Alimentaria 2026.” 2026. 🔗
Marky’s. “Cetara Anchovies: Italy’s Oldest Sea-to-Salt Tradition.” 🔗
Amalfi Coast Lovers. “Cetara nominated as Italian Capital of the Sea 2026.” 2026. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Amalfi Coast Hotels Offer Storybook Europe Views — Roundup of coastal stays with character, useful if you’re planning to base yourself near Cetara.
Italy Adventures: A Content Creator’s Journey — Tips for filming and photographing Italy’s coast, including gear recommendations.
Greece or Italy: Land-Based vs Sailing Exploration — Comparison that helps decide whether to cruise the Amalfi Coast or stay on land.
Italy’s Amalfi Coast Drive Offers Breathtaking Views — Another driving perspective, with route suggestions that include Cetara as a stop.