When the owner of Trattoria Da Armandino tells you his fishermen head out at 2 a.m. and the catch lands on your plate that same night, you believe him. The restaurant has sat on the water in Praiano for over a hundred years, and it’s one of the few places on the Amalfi Coast that still runs its own fishing operation. That direct line from sea to table is exactly what I look for when I travel with my husband — and if you’re a couple who plans romantic getaways around exceptional seafood, you already know the feeling.
The Amalfi Coast gets most of the attention, and for good reason. But the Italian coastline is full of towns where seafood is central to daily life, not just a menu afterthought. Some are well-known and worth the hype. Others stay quiet, known mostly to Italians who’ve been going for years. Every one of them gives you a reason to linger over a long lunch and watch the sun hit the water.
Here are the coastal escapes that belong on your shortlist, especially if fresh catch and a table for two are what you’re after.
Four towns stand out for couples who travel for seafood: Praiano on the Amalfi Coast, Camogli in Liguria, Tropea in Calabria, and the Cilento coast south of Salerno. Each delivers a different kind of romance — glamorous sunsets, quiet fishing-village evenings, dramatic clifftop dinners, or the feeling of discovering a place most tourists haven’t found yet.
Praiano’s quiet coast is built for sunset dinners and squid caught at midnight
Praiano sits on the western side of the Amalfi Coast, between Positano and Amalfi, with a population of roughly 2,100 people. While Positano draws nearly 5 million visitors a year and can feel like a film set in July and August, Praiano stays calm. Locals call it the “sunset town,” and the evening light here is intense — especially in October, when the colors concentrate.
The real draw for seafood lovers is Trattoria Da Armandino. It’s been family-owned for more than a century, and its fishermen are out on the water while most of us are asleep. They catch totani — a local European squid — and bring it back in the morning. The signature dish, totani e patate, is simple: squid and potatoes sautéed with olive oil, tomatoes, and garlic. It’s what residents eat, not something invented for tourists. Between May and September, depending on sea and weather conditions, you can join a nighttime squid fishing expedition arranged through hotels like Casa Angelina.
Other restaurants worth your time include La Taverna del Leone, family-run since 1965, and Ristorante Km0, which focuses on hyper-local ingredients and offers cooking classes. For a meal with a view, Il Pirata Ristorante has terrace tables overlooking the water. And if you want to bring something home, La Bacheca sells handmade ceramics that make thoughtful gifts.
The town itself rewards wandering. A walking path leads down to Marina di Praia, a hidden cove where fishermen keep their boats and a small beach sits quietly — nothing like the packed beach clubs of Positano. The Path of the Gods hiking trail runs nearby, stretching about six kilometers from Bomerano to Nocelle, best done in spring or autumn when the weather is milder. To reach it from Praiano, you’ll climb nearly 1,000 stairs, so plan accordingly. I’ve written more about what that sunrise hike looks like when you skip the alarm if you’re considering it.
For accommodation, Casa Angelina offers a design-forward stay with an infinity pool and an hourly shuttle to Positano that takes less than 10 minutes. Many guests find they don’t want to stay long in Positano anyway. As one local put it, people go there, spend two hours, and have a very bad experience. Praiano, by contrast, feels like a place where you might actually live.
Note: Praiano gets busier in July and August, but the crowds don’t feel the same as Positano’s. For complete tranquility, visit in spring or autumn.
Camogli gives you Cinque Terre looks without the crowds, plus pesto that makes you slow down
Camogli sits on the Ligurian Riviera, a short distance from the Cinque Terre, and it shares the same pastel-colored houses stacked along the waterfront. What it doesn’t share is the crowds. This is a working fishing village, and the difference is immediate. Laundry hangs between buildings. Fishing boats bob in the harbor. And the restaurants serve just-caught seafood alongside the region’s other great contribution to Italian cooking: pesto alla Genovese.
The beaches here are smooth pebbles rather than sand, and the water is clear enough to make you forget about sand entirely. Shores and restaurants are significantly less crowded than those in the Cinque Terre towns, which means you can actually hear each other at dinner. The focaccia alone is worth the trip — light, salty, and nothing like the versions you find outside Liguria.
For a romantic stay, Hotel Cenobio Dei Dogi has a private beach and sea views that make the morning coffee ritual something to look forward to. The town works well for couples who want a slower pace — the kind of place where you spend the morning wandering, eat a long lunch, and let the afternoon drift.
Tropea’s cliffs drop into water that rivals the Caribbean, and the seafood knows it
Tropea sits on the Tyrrhenian coast of Calabria, perched dramatically on chalky cliffs above beaches that look like they belong somewhere tropical. It’s known as the “pearl of Calabria,” and the old town delivers: narrow cobbled streets, blooming bougainvillaea, cafes serving coffee and cornetti on sunlit piazzas. The medieval church of Santa Maria dell’Isola sits on a rocky outcrop, accessible by winding steps carved into the cliffside — one of those views you’ll remember for years.
Seafood here is a culinary staple, not an option. Regional specialties include spicy ‘nduja, a spreadable salami that shows up in everything from pasta to appetizers. The area is also famous for its sweet red onions, often made into jam or relish that pairs perfectly with grilled fish. It’s the kind of place where the food tells you something about where you are.
Tropea works well for couples who want a mix of beach time and town exploration. The beaches — sugar- cube soft — sit below the cliffs, and the water stays warm well into early autumn. It’s less known internationally than the Amalfi Coast, which means prices stay lower and tables are easier to book.
Cilento feels like the Amalfi Coast did forty years ago, and the fish tastes it
A few hours south of the Amalfi Coast, in the province of Salerno, lies Cilento — a stretch of coastline that’s part of a UNESCO-protected national park. It’s largely untouched by mass tourism, and seasoned Italian travelers say it feels like the Amalfi Coast did decades ago. The cliffs are rugged, the water is clear, and the pace of life hasn’t been optimized for visitors.
The beaches here are quieter than anything you’ll find further north. Cala Bianca, Buon Dormire, and Cala Degli Infreschi are the ones to know — each a small cove with water that doesn’t require a filter to look stunning. Inland, medieval hilltop villages like Agropoli and Acciaroli reward a day of wandering. Acciaroli is said to have inspired Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea, which makes sense once you see the fishing boats and the light on the water.
For couples, Cilento offers something the more famous stretches can’t: the feeling of discovering it yourself. There are farmhouses with views over olive groves, small hotels where the owners remember your name, and restaurants where the menu changes based on what came in that morning. It’s not the place for a glamorous, dressed-up dinner. It’s the place for a long afternoon with a bottle of local white wine and a plate of grilled fish, with nothing to do afterward but watch the sun go down.
Before you book your seafood-focused couples trip
Which of these towns is best for a honeymoon?
If you want glamour and a special dinner, Praiano offers luxury hotels like Casa Angelina with sunset views and exceptional seafood from Trattoria Da Armandino. For something quieter and more off-the-beaten-path, Tropea or Cilento give you more space and lower prices.
What’s the best time of year to visit for seafood and good weather?
Late spring (May to June) and early autumn (September to October) are ideal. The sea is warm, crowds are thinner, and the squid fishing expeditions in Praiano run from May through September. July and August are busier and more expensive across the board.
Are any of these towns too touristy for a romantic getaway?
Positano can feel overwhelming — nearly 12,000 day-trippers during peak season — which is why Praiano is the better Amalfi Coast choice for couples who want romance without the chaos. Camogli and Cilento stay quiet even in summer, while Tropea sees mostly Italian and European visitors rather than international crowds. If you’re curious about how food prices shift between these towns, it’s worth reading up before you go.
Can you visit more than one of these on a single trip?
You could combine Praiano with a day trip to Cilento since they’re both in the same region, but Camogli is in Liguria and Tropea is in Calabria — far apart. It makes more sense to pick one region and stay several nights. The Amalfi Coast area (with Praiano) pairs naturally with Cilento for a longer trip.
Is the seafood really that much better in these towns than in bigger cities?
Yes, because you’re eating it within hours of when it was caught. Restaurants like Trattoria Da Armandino in Praiano have their own fishermen, which means the squid and fish haven’t traveled or been frozen. That freshness changes the flavor in a way you notice immediately. I’ve covered which fish markets are worth setting an early alarm for if you want to see the catch come in yourself.
One last thing about eating seafood on the Italian coast
The best meals I’ve had in Italy weren’t at restaurants with white tablecloths and tasting menus. They were at places where the fisherman walked in through the kitchen door with the morning catch, and the cook didn’t have to do much besides put it on the grill. That kind of simplicity is what these coastal towns offer — and for couples who travel to eat well, it’s the whole point. Pick the town that matches your pace, go in the right season, and let the seafood lead the way.
Sources and further reading
Observer. “Praiano, Amalfi Coast: Authentic Travel Guide.” 2026. 🔗
Condé Nast Traveller. “Affordable Alternatives to the Amalfi Coast That Are Just as Stunning.” 2026. 🔗
UNESCO. “Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park.” 🔗
Trattoria Da Armandino. Official site. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Anchovies turned into something you never expected — One of the Amalfi Coast’s most surprising seafood traditions, and where to try it.
Food experiences worth putting on any traveler’s bucket list — A roundup of the best food-focused experiences along the coast, from cooking classes to boat-to-table lunches.