Italy’s Dolomites offer a breathtaking winter escape, blending natural beauty with elegant charm. The region around Cortina d’Ampezzo, often dubbed the “Queen of the Dolomites,” is a prime example, presenting a sophisticated atmosphere alongside dramatic mountain landscapes.
Dolomite Majesty and Alpine Glamour
Cortina d’Ampezzo, situated in the Veneto region, exudes an old-world glamour that draws many visitors. The pedestrianized Corso Italia serves as a social hub, perfect for strolling and soaking in the sophisticated ambiance. However, the true stars are the immense Dolomites themselves, towering limestone formations that paint the sky in shades of pink as the sun sets.
While some come for the shopping and fine dining, the mountains offer ample space for outdoor pursuits. Cable cars and gondolas ascend to impressive heights, including Tofana di Mezzo, which stands at 3,244 meters and was famously featured in the James Bond film “For Your Eyes Only.” The observation deck offers panoramic views that are truly awe-inspiring.
A stop at Ra Valles, accessible via cable car, provided an opportunity to enjoy a hot chocolate with a view. Billing itself as Europe’s highest pizzeria, at 2,470 meters, it offers a unique vantage point to appreciate the surrounding peaks. For skiers, the Super 8 circuit is a popular route for intermediates and above. For those who prefer a less adrenaline-fueled experience, a chairlift from Bai de Dones to Cinque Torri provides access to stunning scenery, including 11 rocky columns.
Here, a snowshoe trail winds through the snowy expanse. Nearby, Rifugio Scoiattoli offers a unique amenity: an outdoor hot tub with mountain views. For an even more immersive wellness experience, Rifugio Lagazuoi, reached by gondola, boasts one of Europe’s highest outdoor saunas. This area also holds historical significance, having been a site of World War I battles between Austro-Hungarian and Italian armies, with restored tunnels and trenches now serving as open-air museums.
Chic Accommodation Options
When considering a stay in Cortina d’Ampezzo, Hotel Columbia offers a taste of the town’s classic style. Doubles here start from €175 per night, providing a comfortable base for exploring the region.
A Gastein Valley Wellness Retreat
Further afield, the Gastein valley in Austria presents a different kind of winter appeal, focusing on relaxation and rejuvenation amidst dramatic alpine scenery. The valley, cradled by the Hohe Tauern mountains, transforms into a picturesque setting with fresh snowfall.
My stay for this region was at Haus Hirt in Bad Gastein, an intimate hotel perched high above the treeline. The views from my room were spectacular, offering sweeping vistas of the snow-covered landscape. The hotel’s design, a blend of natural materials like larch wood and granite with a modern aesthetic, creates a serene environment. The days were filled with activities like yoga and dips in the mountain-facing Aveda spa, followed by quiet dinners.
Bad Gastein has long been renowned for its thermal waters, known for their healing properties. These waters, filtered through deep rock layers, emerge from numerous springs daily. In the 19th century, the town was a popular destination for health cures, attracting notable figures from the arts and royalty. The experience of floating in the warm thermal pools of Felsentherme Gastein as steam rises into the evening air, with the mountains glowing in the twilight, is profoundly peaceful.
Even without skis, the beauty of Bad Gastein is accessible. Snowshoeing through the Angertal valley offers a chance to connect with the quiet winter landscape. The combination of the crisp mountain air and the soothing thermal waters creates a uniquely revitalizing experience. It’s a destination that invites you to slow down and appreciate the tranquility of the season.
Finding Serenity and Comfort
Haus Hirt offers full-board accommodation, with small doubles starting from €220 per night, providing a comprehensive wellness experience for guests.
Appenzell’s Picturesque Alpine Charm
Switzerland’s Appenzell region, particularly the Alpstein massif, offers a visual experience akin to a storybook. Steep, steeple-like peaks and snow-capped barns characterize the landscape, creating a charmingly rustic atmosphere that feels wonderfully removed from the everyday.
This area is perfect for those seeking “micro adventures,” a concept I find particularly appealing when traveling with my children. The Alpstein, crowned by Säntis at 2,501 meters, provides a dramatic backdrop for activities like skiing, snowshoeing, and enjoying hearty local cuisine. Opting for a mountain guesthouse, such as Hoher Hirschberg, offers an authentic experience. This cozy wooden establishment feels as though it has remained unchanged for centuries, with a welcoming pine-clad restaurant.
The rooms here are simply furnished but offer stunning views of the Alpstein’s ridged peaks. Reaching the guesthouse in deep snow involves a short, uphill snowshoe trek, which adds to the sense of arrival and adventure, especially for the kids who love the idea of a “secret path.” For a longer journey, a four-mile trail from near Appenzell leads directly to the guesthouse, offering a fun opportunity to sledge back down.
Another delightful excursion is the snowshoe hike to Eggli, a historical working farm, for lunch. The hearty meals, featuring local specialties, are a perfect reward after a morning in the snow. The cable car to Ebenalp provides access to the main ski area. For expansive views, the cable car to the summit of Hoher Kasten features a revolving restaurant. I particularly enjoyed the snowshoe circuit from the cable car base station to Plattenbödeli mountain guesthouse, which overlooks the serene Sämtisersee Lake.
Culinary Delights and Mountain Views
The restaurant at Plattenbödeli serves generous portions of rösti and a memorable chocolate cake drizzled with Säntis Malt whisky, a local specialty. Accommodation at Plattenbödeli is available from £134 B&B, with weekend stays in January, February, and April. Hoher Hirschberg also offers doubles from £134 B&B, providing excellent value for such a unique experience.
Arctic Norway’s Winter Magic
Venturing even further north, the Vesterålen archipelago in Norway offers a different, yet equally compelling, winter experience. This region, known for its dramatic coastal landscapes and the possibility of witnessing the Northern Lights, provides a true escape into the wild.
My stay at Vesterålen Apartments, located near Klakksjorda, provided a cozy base for exploring this remote corner of Norway. The apartments offer “calm luxury in the wilderness,” complementing the rugged beauty of the surroundings. One of the most memorable experiences was relaxing in a wood-barrel sauna, looking out over a frozen fjord as the afternoon sun illuminated the snow-covered mountains. The idea of a chilly dip in the ice bath afterward was invigorating, embodying the Norwegian concept of “kos”—a blend of coldness and coziness.
North of the Arctic Circle, the polar night brings unique light conditions, creating a lavender-hued daylight perfect for activities like snowshoeing and moose safaris. The chance to see the aurora borealis is a significant draw for visitors. The owner of the apartments, Henrik Hvashøj, offers unique excursions, including boat trips to feed white-tailed sea eagles, a breathtaking experience for my children who were captivated by these magnificent birds.
A drive north to the hamlet of Nyksund revealed a village slowly being revived by a small community. This car-free village offers a unique atmosphere, especially after dark when the sky becomes a canvas for the aurora. Spending time here allows for a deeper connection with the local culture, enjoying coffee in a cozy café, exploring local art, and embarking on hikes along routes like the Queen’s Trail. This trip provided a profound sense of peace and connection with nature, solidifying my appreciation for the stark beauty of the Arctic winter.
Wilderness Accommodation
The Vesterålen Apartments offer a comfortable and stylish base in the heart of the wilderness. The cost for the 7-night Around Vesterålen trip, including stays in Nyksund and Vesterålen Apartments, starts from £1,451 per person, offering a comprehensive Arctic adventure.