The Dolomites mountains in northern Italy offer a stunning landscape that feels like it exploded in popularity, and I recently had the chance to explore them with my husband, Michael. What struck me immediately was the sense of awe the scenery inspires, a feeling that stops you mid-scroll and makes you truly pay attention. Even with the popularity, we found the hiking trails surprisingly uncrowded, which we attributed partly to our early September visit and our choice of routes.
Hiking the Italian Alps
We opted for a self-guided eight-day itinerary, which meant we could set our own pace and enjoy the flexibility of independent travel while still having support. The plan was to walk from Fiè allo Scillar to Cortina d’Ampezzo, with all our baggage transfers and some taxi rides arranged for us. This allowed us to carry only daypacks, which made a huge difference on longer hikes.
The journey began after flying into Venice and then taking a three-hour drive into the mountains. Our first accommodation was the Romantik Hotel Turm in Fiè allo Scillar. While its website initially made us a bit nervous, it turned out to be a delightful surprise with lovely views and unique features, including an impressive art collection.
Discovering Mountain Refuges
One of the biggest discoveries of the trip was the prevalence of rifugios, mountain restaurants located in scenic natural settings. After a few hours of hiking, stumbling upon one of these refuges for a civilized lunch experience felt like a true reward. The food at these places tends to be hearty and just what you need after a morning on the trails.
Our second day involved a combination of a short taxi ride, a gondola, and a chairlift to reach the Alpe di Siusi. The initial walking was easy and incredibly scenic, with open meadows dotted with grazing animals. However, the ascent towards the Sciliar peak proved to be more challenging, with exposed trails under the sun. While we were fortunate to avoid rain, I found myself wishing for clouds at times. Even with the demanding sections, we never felt the need for a guide, thanks to the excellent navigation app provided.
Where to find stunning mountain views
The Alpe di Siusi offers some of the most breathtaking panoramas in the Dolomites, a vast high-alpine meadow that is a hiker’s paradise.
You can find numerous trails ranging from gentle strolls to challenging ascents, each rewarding you with unforgettable vistas.
Lunch was at Rifugio Bolzano, a place that truly felt like a mirage appearing in the wilderness. The logistics of getting supplies to such a remote location, via cable car or helicopter, added to its mystique.
We continued our trek across the Altipiano dello Sciliar before arriving at the Tierser Alp/Rifugio Alpe di Tires, our accommodation for the night. The approach to this rifugio was nothing short of spectacular, offering dramatic views.
The Rifugio Experience
Staying at rifugios can be an extraordinary experience, but it does require a willingness to forgo some creature comforts. We had requested private rooms and were fortunate to have showers and sinks, but shared toilet facilities and the potential for communal sleeping during busy periods were realities we had to accept. Despite the spartan accommodations, the rifugio staff did an excellent job, and I was thrilled to have experienced it, even if I was equally delighted to move on the following morning.
Ryder-Walker offers different routes each day, and their more challenging options often involve significant elevation changes. For day three, we chose an easier route to the town of Selva di Val Gardena. While the more strenuous path sounded incredible, our legs needed a rest, and the weather forecast was a bit uncertain. Nevertheless, the route we took was far from disappointing.
Along the way, we encountered amusing sights like marmots poking their heads out of their burrows. Less charming was a cow blocking our path. Having recently read about a hiker being trampled by cows, we gave it a wide berth.
What to expect at mountain rifugios
Rifugios offer a unique alpine lodging experience, often with shared facilities and hearty food.
It’s a great way to immerse yourself in the mountain environment, but pack accordingly and be prepared for rustic charm.
As we approached a different rifugio for lunch, we noticed a shift in the predominant language spoken by hikers, moving from German to Italian. This transition often coincided with a change in the atmosphere, with German speakers tending to be more reserved and Italian groups being more lively and expansive with their walking poles.
The lunch spot felt more like a chic ski resort than a traditional rifugio, but it was very satisfying. We discovered a popular Italian canned drink called Lemonsoda, which quickly became a favorite.
From there, a short hike led us to a bus that took us to Selva di Val Gardena. The town itself was pleasant, but our exploration was cut short by rain that started as soon as we arrived at our hotel.
A Favorite Alpine Hotel
Our accommodation in Selva di Val Gardena, the Hotel Tyrol, quickly became my favorite of the trip. While being back in a proper hotel room with indoor plumbing was certainly a relief, I also got the sense that the management truly cared about their guests. I found myself wishing we could have stayed an extra night to simply relax and soak in the atmosphere.
The hotel bar had a particularly appealing vibe. Breakfasts nearly every day were a highlight, with European buffets far exceeding what we typically find. The Hotel Tyrol went above and beyond, offering decadent cakes, local cheeses, and even a large slab of chocolate that you could cut chunks from.
Walking Between Hotels
Day four was the only day we completed the entire hike from one hotel to another without any assistance from taxis, gondolas, or buses. The hike began in a chilly, shaded valley with frost on the grass, then ascended steeply, often via stairs, to reach Rifugio Puez for lunch.
The descent into a different valley was breathtaking, although it passed through a ski resort area, where the infrastructure detracted somewhat from the natural mood.
This was also where I first noticed the local Ladin culture. The sign for “Parch natural” was neither German nor Italian, but Ladin, a unique Romance language spoken in the region.
Ryder-Walker had strongly recommended using their app’s GPS over other navigation tools, and this proved to be absolutely true as we entered Corvara via shortcuts that other apps were unaware of.
The downside to hiking directly from hotel to hotel is arriving a bit disheveled compared to guests who have driven. La Perla, our next accommodation, had a rather high opinion of itself, and while it was a fine hotel, it didn’t quite match the charm of the Hotel Tyrol. A loud wedding on the premises also added to the less-than-ideal atmosphere.
Navigating the Dolomites trails
The hiking trails in the Dolomites offer a diverse range of experiences, from panoramic meadows to challenging rocky ascents.
Always check weather conditions and trail difficulty before setting out, and consider a navigation app for assistance.
To La Perla’s credit, the owner was present and made a point of introducing himself. He was clearly a music enthusiast, and the tour of the wine cellar was a unique experience that went beyond just the wine itself.
We had a full day in Corvara, and the hike took us across the plateau of a ski resort that felt overly crowded with people walking, biking, and even driving cars. Craving some solitude, I walked back to town and enjoyed lunch at a local café, followed by dinner at a pizzeria. These meals provided a welcome change from hotel dining and reinforced the idea that this kind of trip is more about the daily journey than the final destinations.
The Final Dolomites Trek
By this point in the trip, the prospect of putting on hiking boots yet again was beginning to feel a bit tiring. Fortunately, our last hike was a spectacular one. After a demanding ascent right out of the gate, passing remnants of World War I fortifications, we descended into a stunning valley and traversed varied terrain.
I finally remembered to take a photo of the menu at Rifugio Angelo Dibona, our designated lunch spot and pickup point. While more ambitious than at other rifugios, it gave a good sense of the culinary offerings.
Several restaurants along the way featured a delightful dessert of vanilla ice cream with warm raspberries, which we enjoyed immensely. I later learned this dish is called heisseliebe, meaning “hot love” in German.
Our Dolomites hiking adventure concluded at the Faloria Mountain Spa Resort outside Cortina d’Ampezzo. While it was the least interesting of the hotels, by that point we were ready for relaxation, and the large indoor pool and hot tub felt incredibly blissful.
I highly recommend considering a self-guided trip with a service like Ryder-Walker for exploring the Alps or other scenic regions. For future trips involving luggage transfers, I would definitely use Apple Air Tags inside my bags; it’s a simple way to track their whereabouts. We learned this firsthand when our luggage appeared to be stuck, prompting us to check with the taxi company, which had indeed forgotten to pick them up.
Exploring Milan’s Sophistication
After our time in the mountains, we made our way to Milan for a few days. My husband, Michael, suggested that I liked Milan because others tended to overlook it, and I have to admit, there’s a truth to that. Milan felt like a busy, sophisticated city that hasn’t been overwhelmed by mass tourism in the way Florence and Venice have.
I was drawn to the city’s brawny, masculine architecture and interiors, the grand doors and entry courtyards, and even the enthusiastic approach to parking. The streetcars and the metro system made getting around easy, and the formal attire of waiters, coupled with the aperitivo snacks, added to the experience.
There was a sexy, blasé quality to Milan that I found very appealing. However, an all-business attitude from a waiter at Rovello did mar an otherwise delicious meal. The server at Denis pizzeria, on the other hand, was quite open about his past as a drag performer in San Francisco.
We also had terrific gelato at Artico, a discovery from a helpful blog post.
Accommodation Challenges in Milan
When looking for a hotel in Milan, we were surprised by the skyrocketing rates. Upon check-in, we were told we were there during a lull between Formula One and fashion week, which made us question why we had paid so much for Casa Baglioni. While it was acceptable, it wasn’t a place we’d rush back to. Two memorable aspects of our stay were trying on an extremely short robe and Michael insisting that someone confirm the room’s temperature of 16° Celsius.
What to know before visiting Milan
Milan offers a sophisticated urban experience with impressive architecture and a vibrant cultural scene.
Plan your visit and book accommodations in advance, especially during peak seasons for events like fashion week.
My visit to Milan wouldn’t have been complete without seeing the Duomo, and the floor of the cathedral was particularly striking. While waiting for our Duomo visit, we had coffee and a pastry at Pasticceria Marchesi, located on the second floor of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. I was surprised by how many locals were also patronizing the cafe.
I also made sure to visit the Fondazione Prada, a bit outside the city center. While the art itself was less impactful for me, the architecture by OMA was wonderful. I especially admired the double-helix staircase, the locator maps embedded in the ground, and the concrete pavers designed to resemble wood.
The modern art gallery provided a stark contrast to the exquisite Villa Necchi Campiglio, a 1935 villa featured in the film “I Am Love.” Lunch at the villa’s café was a bit disappointing, but the view of preparations for an ExxonMobil event across the street was interesting.
Best time to visit Milan
Spring and fall generally offer pleasant weather for exploring Milan’s attractions.
Be aware of major events like fashion week and the Grand Prix, which can impact crowds and hotel prices.
I’m not a big shopper, but I do love Acqua di Parma products, which I first discovered years ago. Michael bought me a candle as an early birthday gift, a thoughtful gesture considering we were traveling carry-on only.
Instead of heading straight home, we stopped in New York City for a few days, flying from Milan on La Compagnie, an all-business-class airline. The experience was far superior to flying on legacy carriers, with everyone boarding at once and a more civilized atmosphere, reminiscent of air travel from years past.
The Dolomites provided an incredible backdrop for an active vacation, blending breathtaking scenery with challenging yet rewarding hikes. Milan offered a sophisticated urban counterpoint, showcasing a different facet of Italian culture. It was a trip that offered both invigorating adventure and insightful city exploration.