When thinking of Italy, my mind conjures images of the familiar: the rolling hills of Tuscany, the canals of Venice, the ancient ruins of Rome. But on a recent trip, I discovered a region that captures the essence of Italy in a way I hadn’t anticipated – Abruzzo. Nestled on the Adriatic coast, east of Lazio, this central Italian gem offers a microcosm of the country’s diverse landscapes and deep-rooted traditions, far from the usual tourist crowds. Imagine journeying from craggy mountains, where whispers of bears and wolves still echo, down through verdant hills dotted with Renaissance towns and endless vineyards, all while the sparkling Adriatic Sea beckons in the distance. Abruzzo is a place where nature reigns supreme, a testament to resilience, with generations rebuilding settlements after centuries of earthquakes, their connection to the land unwavering.
Exploring Abruzzo’s Wild Heart
This region truly feels like stepping back in time, offering a chance to experience an Italy that holds onto its history and its distinct character. It’s a place where age-old food traditions are still practiced with pride, where local mountain flora is transformed into potent drinks, and where the adventure of spotting bears can seamlessly blend into wine tasting by the sea, often within the same day. My visit was inspired by a desire to see this less-trodden path, and Abruzzo did not disappoint.
L’Aquila A City Reborn
My journey began in L’Aquila, the regional capital, dramatically situated in a broad, mountain-embraced basin. Despite the visible signs of rebuilding after the devastating 2009 earthquake, L’Aquila stands as a powerful symbol of Abruzzo’s tenacious spirit. It’s a city that offers a profound understanding of central Italy’s resilience, especially in its earthquake-prone zones. The architecture tells a story of endurance, from the imposing Baroque Basilica di San Bernardino dominating the historic center to the Romanesque-Gothic Santa Maria di Collemaggio, found within a serene park. For art and history enthusiasts, the MUNDA museum, housed in L’Aquila’s former slaughterhouse, is a treasure trove. It displays an intriguing collection of medieval wood sculptures, terracotta statues, and Renaissance paintings, offering a unique glimpse into the region’s artistic heritage.
L’Aquila also holds a special charm for anyone with a sweet tooth. The city is renowned for its torrone tenero al cioccolato, a soft chocolate nougat. Invented in the 19th century by the Nurzia family, this delightful confection is a crumbly, honey-soft blend of chocolate and crunchy hazelnuts. I found myself enjoying this treat, and even a nougat-infused espresso, at the very same family-run bar on the Piazza Duomo, a delightful connection to a bygone era.
What is L’Aquila’s sweet specialty
The city is famously known for its torrone tenero al cioccolato, a soft chocolate nougat invented in the 19th century.
The Nurzia family’s bar on Piazza Duomo is still the place to taste this traditional confection and other nougat-inspired treats.
Santo Stefano di Sessanio Timeless Village Life
A scenic drive of about forty minutes east of L’Aquila leads to Santo Stefano di Sessanio. This ancient village, perched on a plateau that often seems to float above the clouds, transports you to another world. Known for its historical significance in wool production since the Renaissance, it represents many rural Italian towns that experienced depopulation as residents sought opportunities elsewhere in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
However, Santo Stefano di Sessanio is now vibrantly alive, thanks in large part to the albergo diffuso concept, or scattered hotel, called Sextantio. The owner, Daniele Kihlgren, meticulously researched the village’s ethnographic history before meticulously restoring many of its abandoned houses into unique accommodations. The local restaurant, Locanda Sotto gli Archi, is a culinary journey into the past, serving dishes based on traditional working-class recipes. I savored a dish of pork neck slow-cooked in a sweet fig sauce, and a portion of giant ravioli stuffed with local sheep ricotta, bathed in a delicate saffron sauce – a taste of Abruzzo’s mountain highlands.
Where to experience rural tradition
Santo Stefano di Sessanio offers an authentic glimpse into historical Italian village life through its restored buildings and traditional cuisine.
The Sextantio albergo diffuso and its restaurant, Locanda Sotto gli Archi, are central to experiencing these preserved traditions.
Abruzzo’s Evolving Wine Scene
For wine enthusiasts, the typical pilgrimage to Italy often leads to Tuscany or Piedmont. Yet, Abruzzo is rapidly emerging as a contender, having been named “region of the year” by Wine Enthusiast magazine in 2022. Its diverse terroir, stretching from the mountains to the Adriatic coast, produces distinctive wines. The region is particularly celebrated for its robust Montepulciano, also known as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and its heady Cerasuolo rosés, both made from the same grape. The Pecorino white wine is also gaining well-deserved popularity.
In the northern hills around Controguerra and Colonnella, the landscape resembles a miniature Tuscany, with rolling vineyards offering affordable wine tasting opportunities. Wineries like Biagi, Illuminati (a long-standing producer since 1890), and Montori are excellent places to explore. Montori holds the distinction of being the first to produce sparkling Trebbiano and Pecorino whites. The true heart of Abruzzo’s wine production, however, lies in the Chieti province, inland from Pescara, where roughly 80 percent of the region’s vineyards are cultivated. The Di Nunzio family at La Vinarte have been crafting wines for four generations and offer tastings, as well as delightful picnics amidst their olive groves.
What wines define Abruzzo
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo reds and Cerasuolo rosés are the region’s signature wines, with Pecorino whites also gaining prominence.
Northern areas like Controguerra and Chieti province are key wine regions for exploration.
Venturing into Abruzzo’s National Parks
A remarkable feature of Abruzzo is its commitment to nature conservation. Approximately one-third of the region is designated as national parks and nature reserves, seamlessly integrating human settlements into pristine natural beauty. From the imposing mountain ranges of the Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga to the fauna-rich Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise, there’s a profound sense of wilderness.
The human relationship with nature here is deeply ingrained, evident in the origins of Abruzzo’s famous cheeses and sheep dishes, which sprung from the mountainous terrain. At Campo Imperatore, a vast mountain plateau above L’Aquila, I witnessed cowboys herding their flocks across expansive plains, a scene straight out of a painting. For a truly immersive experience, I joined a guided hike with Camminare in Abruzzo. This half-day trek through the Parco Nazionale della Maiella led to an agriturismo and dairy farm where I learned the traditional method of making cacio morra, a cheese crafted from sheep and goat’s milk by generations of shepherd families.
How to connect with nature in Abruzzo
Explore Abruzzo’s vast protected areas like Gran Sasso and the National Park of Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise.
Participate in guided hikes focusing on cheesemaking or wildlife spotting.
Genziana A Taste of Mountain Tradition
Forget about conventional after-dinner drinks; in Abruzzo, the meal is often concluded with a shot of genziana. This digestif, made from the roots of the gentian flower that grows abundantly on the mountainsides, offers a wonderfully bitter yet refreshing taste. It’s readily available in local restaurants and bars, but for a true understanding of its origins, visiting a producer is a must.
In the hills near the Silente-Velino nature reserve, south of L’Aquila, Liquorificio d’Abruzzo brews genziana and other liqueurs using various local herbs and roots. A visit to their distillery allows you to sample their creations. I was particularly intrigued by the santoreggia liqueur, made from a herb similar to thyme. It was a unique and flavorful way to end an evening, tasting the essence of the Abruzzo mountains.
What is the local digestif
Genziana, a bitter yet refreshing digestif, is made from the roots of the gentian flower.
Liquorificio d’Abruzzo offers tastings of genziana and other herbal liqueurs.
Trabocchi Coast Dining with Sea Views
The 24-mile crescent of coastline between Ortona and Vasto is known as the Trabocchi Coast, named after the extraordinary fishing platforms that extend over the rocky waters. These unique structures, adorned with nets and fishing gear, resemble spiders crafting their webs. Built from the 18th century onwards by local fishing families to cast their nets beyond the shore, many trabocchi have now been transformed into atmospheric restaurants.
Crossing a rickety catwalk to reach these cantilevered dining rooms offers an unforgettable experience. Here, you can savor the freshest seafood while the waves crash below, with seagulls circling overhead. Sasso della Cajana is one of the most enchanting spots, illuminated by fairy lights. The Verì family serves local specialties, from anchovies with chili flakes to pasta dishes featuring the day’s catch. After indulging, a walk or a bike ride along the coastal path that stretches the length of the Trabocchi Coast provides a perfect way to appreciate the scenery.
Unique dining experiences on the coast
The Trabocchi Coast features converted fishing platforms offering dining over the sea.
Enjoy fresh seafood at places like Sasso della Cajana for a memorable meal.
In Search of Europe’s Last Bears
Europe’s bear populations have faced significant decline, but Abruzzo remains a sanctuary for some of the continent’s last remaining Marsican brown bears. Approximately 50 of these magnificent animals inhabit the vast mountain wilderness of the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise. The Abruzzo side of this park provides the best opportunities for spotting them.
Wildlife Adventures, a local operator involved in rewilding projects, leads bear-watching trips from April to September. For a truly off-the-beaten-path adventure, their five-night “Italy’s Big Five” trek encompasses mountain villages, breathtaking landscapes, and the chance to track bears, wolves, boar, deer, and Apennine chamois. Seeing these animals in their natural habitat is a profound experience, a stark reminder of the importance of conservation efforts.
How to see wildlife in Abruzzo
Vast national parks are home to some of Europe’s last Marsican brown bears.
Specialized tours offer opportunities for bear and other wildlife spotting.
Vasto A Stately Renaissance Town
Perched on a hillside overlooking the Adriatic, Vasto was once the seat of the powerful d’Avalos family during the Renaissance. Today, it retains its stately atmosphere, with echoes of its noble past visible everywhere. The Palazzo d’Avalos, the family’s former stronghold, now houses the city’s museums. Exploring its cloister and Neapolitan-style gardens offers breathtaking views and a tangible connection to figures like Vittoria Colonna, a renowned Renaissance poet who spent time here.
Vasto is also celebrated for its food, particularly brodetto alla Vastese, a rich fish soup. This local delicacy combines seafood broth with bell peppers, onions, garlic, and tomatoes. I enjoyed an excellent version at Cibo Matto in the town center, and another at Ristorante Da Micchele down by the port. Exploring Vasto feels like a delightful step back into a more elegant era.
What to experience in Vasto
Explore the historic Palazzo d’Avalos and its gardens.
Savor the local specialty, brodetto alla Vastese, a flavorful fish soup.
Sulmona’s Sweet Almond Delights
About an hour southwest of Pescara lies Sulmona, a mountain-wrapped town with ancient ties. It’s the birthplace of the Roman poet Ovid, and his contemporaries are credited with inventing Sulmona’s most famous product: confetti, or sugared almonds.
The town’s medieval nuns elevated this simple treat to an art form. In the 15th century, residents of the Santa Chiara convent began crafting intricate ‘flowers,’ ‘fruits,’ and even sweet rosaries from sugared almonds. Today, Sulmona boasts numerous shops selling these colorful concoctions, often shaped into flowers with individually sugared almonds forming petals and pistils. The Museo dell’Arte e della Tecnologia Confettiera, privately owned by the Pelino family (who have been making confetti since 1783), offers fascinating insights into the history and artistry of this tradition. Sulmona’s other medieval marvel is its impressive, still-functioning aqueduct, dating back to 1256. Refilling my water bottle at the Renaissance-built Fontana del Vecchio was a refreshing pause.
What is the famous treat from Sulmona
Sulmona is renowned for its confetti, or sugared almonds, often crafted into intricate shapes.
The Pelino Confetti Museum details the history and production of this sweet.
Arrosticini Abruzzo’s Comfort Food
One of Italy’s most beloved street foods has its roots in the Abruzzo mountains: arrosticini. These are skewers of sheep meat, interspersed with small fatty pieces, grilled over hot coals to a perfect sizzle. Sold in handfuls, you’ll find arrosticini vendors everywhere, especially near national park entrances.
For a more relaxed dining experience, I visited Ristorante Il Fungarolo, a mountain lodge specializing in hearty mushroom dishes, truffles, and meats sourced from the surrounding peaks. Enjoying these delicious, simple skewers felt like a true taste of Abruzzo’s culinary soul. They are incredibly satisfying after a day of hiking and exploring.
What are arrosticini
Arrosticini are skewers of grilled sheep meat, a popular street food originating from Abruzzo.
They are a simple yet delicious way to experience local flavors, often found near parks.
Navigating Abruzzo
Reaching Abruzzo might require a little planning, as Pescara Airport mainly serves budget European routes. Flying into Rome or Naples, both about a three-hour drive away, is often more convenient. Trains from Rome connect to Pescara or L’Aquila, though slower regional trains can surprisingly offer faster direct routes. The coastal train line along the Trabocchi Coast, from Pescara to Vasto, is a scenic option. However, renting a car is highly recommended for exploring the region’s diverse landscapes and smaller villages at your own pace.
Where to Stay in Abruzzo
For an immersive introduction to Abruzzo, the Sextantio Santo Stefano di Sessanio is exceptional. Located high in the mountains, its rooms, carved from long-abandoned houses, and its thoughtfully prepared menus offer a deep dive into the region’s traditions. Wine lovers might find their haven at Tema Relais, part of Tenuta Masciangelo, nestled between the Maiella National Park and the beaches of Francavilla al Mare. This estate produces high-quality wine and olive oil. For a culinary-focused escape, Palazzo Tour d’Eau, a 17th-century mansion in Carunchio, offers six-day gastro-tours and cooking classes at its in-house school, Abruzzo Cibus.
This region offers a chance to connect with a more authentic Italy, one where nature’s grandeur and centuries-old traditions are not just preserved but lived. I found Abruzzo to be a place that truly captures the heart of Italy, and I encourage you to discover its unique charm for yourself.