I first heard about Matera from a friend who kept saying it felt older than Rome itself. She wasn’t exaggerating. The city’s Sassi districts contain cave dwellings carved into limestone cliffs that predate the Roman Republic by thousands of years, and the entire historic center holds UNESCO World Heritage status. I went expecting something interesting. I did not expect to be genuinely moved by a city built into rock.
Matera’s cave dwellings predate Rome by thousands of years, with the Sassi districts carved directly into limestone cliffs.
If you want to feel like you’ve discovered something real in Italy — not just another crowded piazza — skip the usual Florence-to-Rome circuit and head south. Matera, Procida, and the hill towns of Puglia and Umbria deliver the kind of travel that sticks with you long after you’re home.
Solo travelers
Couples
Slow travel enthusiasts
This guide covers the places I’d send my own friends — Matera, Procida, the Val d’Orcia hill towns, Lecce, and a few others that rarely make the standard two-week itinerary. I’ve focused on what actually matters when you go: how to see them well, what to skip, and when the crowds thin out enough that you can breathe.
Southern Italy
Matera: The cave city that rewrites history
Matera is not a pretty town you visit for an afternoon. It’s a place that changes how you think about human settlement.
The Sassi districts — Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisale — are exactly what they sound like: entire neighborhoods carved into the soft limestone of the Gravina ravine. People lived in these caves continuously from prehistoric times until the 1950s, when the Italian government forcibly relocated residents due to unsafe conditions. Today, many of those same caves have been converted into boutique hotels and restaurants, and the city has become a symbol of sustainable tourism done right.
You can sleep in a cave hotel here starting around €80 a night, which sounds gimmicky but is genuinely atmospheric. Dawn from the Murgia plateau across the ravine is worth the early wake-up — the light hits the Sassi in a way that makes the whole city look like it’s glowing from inside the rock.
Procida: The pastel island that skipped the crowds
Procida is what Capri used to be before the yachts took over.
This working fishing village in the Bay of Naples has pastel-colored houses stacked up the hillside, family-run restaurants serving fish caught that morning, and waterfront tables you can actually book without planning weeks ahead. The main beach, Spiaggia della Chiaia, requires climbing 186 steps to reach, which keeps the crowds manageable. Ferries from Naples take about 45 minutes and cost around €13 each way.
Terra Murata, the highest point on the island, offers sunset views across the bay that genuinely rival Santorini — without a single selfie stick in sight. The island’s small size means you can explore the entire thing on foot in a day, though I’d recommend staying overnight to experience the quiet after the day-trippers leave.
Book the first ferry of the morning from Naples Molo Beverello. You’ll arrive before the crowds and have the narrow streets mostly to yourself until around 11 AM.
Val d’Orcia’s lesser-known villages
Everyone knows the Val d’Orcia for its rolling hills and cypress trees. Few people visit the actual villages.
Castiglione d’Orcia sits on a hilltop with medieval towers above vineyards that produce Brunello wines at prices far lower than what you’d pay in Roman restaurants. San Quirico d’Orcia has Renaissance gardens and a quiet piazza where locals gather for evening passeggiata. Bagno Vignoni is the real surprise — a medieval square with thermal springs flowing directly into a stone pool, where you can soak while looking at buildings that have stood for centuries.
Agriturismos in this area offer family-style dinners with Chianti included, and many let you participate in harvest activities if you visit in September or October. The Tuscany wine harvest is one of the best times to visit, with festivals in medieval squares and dancing that goes late into the night.
Lecce and the Salento Peninsula
Lecce is called the Florence of the South, and for once the comparison holds up.
The entire historic center is built from honey-colored limestone that glows gold in the afternoon light. Baroque churches and palaces line narrow streets, and the food scene leans heavily on local ingredients — orecchiette pasta, olive oil from nearby estates, and seafood from both the Adriatic and Ionian coasts that flank the Salento Peninsula.
The masserie — fortified farmhouses that once protected against invaders — now operate as boutique hotels and restaurants. Wines like primitivo and negroamaro are produced locally and cost a fraction of what you’d pay in Milan or Rome. The beaches on both coasts are clean and rarely crowded, especially if you walk ten minutes past the main access points.
The Salento Peninsula is large enough that you’ll want a car. Public buses connect the main towns, but having your own wheels lets you reach the quieter beaches and smaller masserie that don’t appear on most maps.
Marmore Waterfall: A Roman engineering marvel
Not every hidden gem is a town. Some are waterfalls built by Romans.
The Cascata delle Marmore near Terni was created in 271 BC when the Romans needed to drain marshlands. The flow is still controlled today for hydroelectric power and flood prevention, which means you need to check the official release schedule before you go. When the water is running at full force, the spray can soak you from fifty meters away.
Multiple trails wind through the park, and you can take a train from Rome with a discount on entry. A separate parking pass is required if you drive. The heavy flow makes photography challenging — you’ll want a camera with good stabilization or a waterproof housing — but the spectacle is worth the wet clothes.
When to go and how to budget
Timing matters more for these places than for the big cities.
May and September are the sweet spots — temperatures between 20–28°C, minimal crowds, and harvest season activities in full swing. A 14-day road trip covering Matera, Procida, Lecce, and the Val d’Orcia runs roughly €1,160–1,950 on a budget or €1,900–3,130 for mid-range, including accommodation, meals, fuel, and entry fees.
| Destination | Best time to visit | Typical hotel cost/night |
|---|---|---|
| Matera | April–June, September–October | €80–150 |
| Procida | May–June, September | €70–120 |
| Val d’Orcia villages | May, September–October (harvest) | €50–100 (agriturismo) |
| Lecce / Salento | May–June, September | €60–130 |
- Book accommodation in Matera’s Sassi at least two months ahead for cave hotels under €100/night.
- Visit Procida on a weekday and take the first ferry from Naples to avoid the midday rush.
- Rent a car for the Salento Peninsula — the best beaches and masserie require driving.
Before you visit Italy’s hidden gems
Is Matera safe to visit with kids?
Yes, but the Sassi districts involve steep stairs and uneven stone paths. Strollers are difficult. Lily and Ethan managed fine at ages 7 and 4, but we carried Ethan on my shoulders for the steeper sections.
Do I need to speak Italian in these smaller towns?
English is less common than in Rome or Florence. Learn basic phrases — “buongiorno,” “grazie,” “il conto, per favore” — and download Google Translate offline. Most restaurant staff in Matera and Lecce speak enough English for ordering.
Are any of these places overrated or disappointing?
Alberobello in Puglia is the one I’d skip. The trulli houses are genuinely unique, but the town has become a souvenir market during the day. Stay overnight if you go — the crowds leave by 5 PM and the empty streets are worth seeing.
How many days should I spend in Matera?
Two nights minimum. One full day lets you explore both Sassi districts, visit a cave church, and watch sunset from the Murgia plateau. Three nights if you want to add a day trip to the nearby Gravina di Matera park.
What’s the best way to get between these destinations?
A rental car gives you the most flexibility, especially for the Val d’Orcia and Salento. Trains connect Matera, Lecce, and Naples (for Procida ferries), but you’ll miss the smaller villages. Budget for ZTL (limited traffic zone) fines in historic centers — park outside the walls and walk in.
Why these places stay with you
I’ve been to Italy more times than I can count, and the moments I replay most aren’t from the Colosseum or the Uffizi. They’re from standing on the Murgia plateau at dawn, eating grilled fish on Procida’s waterfront, and watching my kids run through the empty streets of Castiglione d’Orcia after the last tour bus left. These places don’t try to impress you. They just exist, and that’s exactly why they do. For more ideas on where to go beyond the usual spots, read our guide to Italy’s lesser-known UNESCO World Heritage gems.
Sources and further reading
City Lifestyle. “Beyond the Crowds: An Insider’s Guide to Italy’s Hidden Gems.” 🔗
Max Haase. “Italy’s Insider Tips: Places Off the Beaten Track.” 🔗
Revel in Roaming. “Beyond Crowds: Uncovering Italy’s Gems.” 🔗
TGM Compass. “Hidden UNESCO Sites in Italy.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
A Month in Italy’s Alps: From Hiking to Village Life — Covers the quieter side of the Italian Alps with practical advice for slow travel and outdoor activities.
Florence’s Seasonal Food Through the Year — A month-by-month guide to eating well in Florence, with tips on markets and dishes that change with the seasons.
La Ciambella: Rome’s Secret Menu with a Twist — A deep dive into one of Rome’s most creative restaurants, perfect for food lovers looking beyond tourist traps.
Find the Best Hotels in Italy’s Cinque Terre Region — Practical hotel recommendations for the Cinque Terre, including options in quieter towns outside the main five villages.