Heading to Italy for an extended trip offers a fantastic opportunity to explore diverse landscapes and cultures. My recent journey focused on combining the stunning beauty of the Italian Alps with the charm of its countryside villages. This itinerary is designed to give you a taste of adventure, relaxation, and authentic Italian life, perfect for families or any traveler seeking a deeper connection with the region.
Northern Italy Alpine Adventures
Our exploration began in the Piedmont region, specifically in the small, unadvertised village of Arboerio. It’s a place you likely won’t find in typical guidebooks, recommended by friends who own a vacation home there. This quiet village, with its handful of residents, offers a true escape from the tourist trail. We opted to rent an apartment neighboring our friends’ place, providing a comfortable and authentic base for our initial days.
For exploring the surrounding area, having a car is essential. We found a Fiat Panda and a Lancia Ypsilon were perfect for navigating the smaller roads. Mornings were a ritual of brewing strong espresso with a Moka pot and enjoying it by the window, overlooking the peaceful town of Varallo Sesia. The afternoons were dedicated to the exhilaration of swimming in the crystal-clear Mastallone river, a refreshing escape from the summer heat, where we’d occasionally watch brave teenagers take daring jumps from the rocky cliffs.
Mountain Trekking and Refuges
One of the highlights of this region is the opportunity for exhilarating mountain hikes. A trip to the village of Alagna Valsesia, a gateway to Monte Rosa, set the stage for an unforgettable overnight stay in a mountain refuge. While some of our group opted for a scenic gondola and tram ride, others, including myself, chose to tackle the challenging eight-mile trail upwards.
The ascent was steep, pushing our limits with over 5,000 feet of elevation gain in the first few miles. Stopping for a slice of leftover pizza at the halfway mark was a welcome break. The panoramic views that unfolded as we climbed were simply breathtaking, making every strenuous step worthwhile. We encountered only a few other hikers, a testament to the trail’s relative solitude.
Where do you stay overnight in the mountains
We reached Orestes Hutte, a mountain refuge, where we checked in at the bar. After trading our hiking boots for comfortable loaner Crocs in the boot room, we settled into our cozy private room. The hut offers both private rooms and communal dormitories, catering to different types of travelers.
The communal aspect of the mountain hut was truly special. After a day of hiking, we gathered for a vegetarian meal, which was surprisingly hearty and delicious. Everyone was apprehensive about not having enough food after such an active day, especially without the familiar comfort of cheesy pasta, but the generous portions and flavorful dishes, including a memorable pea soup, satisfied us all.
Exploring Historical and Architectural Wonders
Back in Arboerio and Varallo Sesia, we discovered a rich historical and spiritual site: Sacro Monte. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a 15th-century re-creation of Jerusalem, featuring 45 chapels and numerous statues depicting the final days of Christ. You can reach it via a winding cobblestone path or the steepest funicular in Europe.
While exploring the grounds, we stumbled upon Hostaria de Bricai, a Michelin-recommended restaurant hidden within an old residence overlooking Varallo. Dining here was a treat, renowned for its exceptional risotto and unique dishes like donkey ravioli. It’s a perfect spot for a celebratory meal after days of adventure.
Alto Adige: Alpine Charm and Relaxation
Transitioning from Piedmont, we drove west into the German-speaking autonomous province of Alto Adige, a region that beautifully blends Italian and Austrian influences. Our stay at Baumanhoff, a family-owned eight-room B&B, was a delightful introduction to the area. Surrounded by vineyards and greeted by friendly German shepherds, it felt like stepping into a fairytale.
The B&B’s tavern offered a fantastic spread of local specialties, including various dumplings, sausages, and a must-try funnel cake that the children absolutely adored. The atmosphere, complete with a neighboring table of guests in lederhosen, truly evoked a sense of being in Austria, yet with an undeniable Italian flair.
High-Alpine Pastures and Panoramic Views
A significant portion of our time in Alto Adige was spent exploring Alpe de Siusi, Europe’s largest high-Alpine pasture. Taking a gondola to the summit, we ambled across gently rolling trails, where the panoramic views of the Dolomites, a majestic mountain range with peaks exceeding 10,000 feet, were simply awe-inspiring. My daughter found endless fascination in quizzing me about Pokémon during our leisurely walks.
We enjoyed casual lunches at mountain lodges like Alpenhotel Panorama, savoring sausages and fries while the children reveled in oversized swings. These high-alpine settings offer a perfect blend of active exploration and moments of pure relaxation, with opportunities for photography at every turn.
Fitness and Outdoor Activities
For those who enjoy staying active, finding a local CrossFit gym was a priority. CrossFit Bolzano provided a welcoming environment, and despite the class being taught in Italian, we managed to participate with ease. The main challenge was converting kilograms to pounds, a small hurdle in an otherwise great workout experience.
For a different kind of thrill, we visited Salewa’s climbing gym in Bolzano. It offered a fantastic indoor climbing experience for the kids, complete with auto belay systems. While they climbed, we enjoyed refreshing shaken espressos from a nearby bistro, soaking in the chic atmosphere of the locals despite the heatwave.
Spa Towns and Castle Stays
The spa town of Merano offered a luxurious change of pace. We opted to stay in the north wing of a 12th-century castle, which exceeded all expectations. With its soaring ceilings, well-equipped kitchen, and the surrounding apple orchards, it was an unforgettable experience. The property’s location along the Maiser Waalweg, a scenic trail, provided excellent opportunities for morning runs through vineyards and forests.
Terme Merano, a sprawling spa complex, became a favorite family destination. With 15 indoor and 11 outdoor pools, including a chemical-free ‘Bio Nature Pool,’ it was pure bliss. We spent hours hopping between pools, enjoying snacks from the bar on the sunbathing lawn. The sheer variety of pools ensured that everyone found their favorite spot.
Family Fun and Scenic Rides
Another highlight in Merano was Merano 2000, a mountain resort offering a family fun area at the summit. It featured in-ground trampolines, a zip line, and the ever-popular Fun Bob, which we rode multiple times. The gondola ride up offered stunning vistas, and strategizing for a forward seat on the descent made for a smoother, more scenic journey.
A visit to Trauttmansdorff, a castle boasting 80 gardens, was a captivating experience for all ages. The “Garden for Lovers” provided a playful setting for the children, and they were enthralled by the diverse attractions, from the mini Palm Beach to the intriguing Botanical Underworld. Our evenings often concluded with delicious meals at local restaurants, followed by gelato, and many, many steps recorded on our fitness trackers.
Concluding the Italian Alpine Journey
Our final destination was the storybook village of Sulden, a short drive west of Merano. We chose to stay at the four-star Hotel die Post, enjoying the incredible value of an all-inclusive experience, from breakfast and lunch buffets to an elaborate eight-course dinner. After two weeks of self-catering in Italy, the abundance of kid-friendly options at every meal was a true godsend.
The hotel’s location allowed for car-free exploration. We hiked to a breathtaking suspension bridge, enjoyed a casual round of mini-golf, and let the children loose in a charming, Hobbit-esque wooden playground. Even rainy afternoons were made enjoyable with board games in the lobby, complete with negronis for the adults.
Adult Retreats and Family Dinners
While the children were entertained, we adults found moments for ourselves. Hiking through the scenic landscape with friends offered stunning views, and a visit to the adults-only spa provided ultimate relaxation with its multiple steam rooms and mountain vistas. For our final nights, we discovered the delightful strategy of ordering the children just one course at dinner, allowing them to retreat to watch cartoons while we savored a leisurely meal.
The four-hour drive from Sulden to Milan, traversing the iconic Stelvio Pass with its 60 hairpin turns, was an adventure in itself, made smoother by Dramamine for the kids. We settled into an Airbnb in Milan’s Navigli district, a vibrant area along a canal, appreciating the modern comforts of air-conditioning and a spacious shower.
Milanese Highlights and Departure
Our final day in Milan was a whirlwind of iconic sights and spirited shopping. A glimpse of the Duomo from the outside was sufficient to impress the children, saving us time and money. We also indulged in some retail therapy, with a visit to the impressive Ferrari store. Although many businesses were closed due to the August holiday, we noted potential spots for future exploration.
Our journey concluded with a final indulgence of authentic Italian gelato before our early morning flight home, filled with memories of diverse landscapes, delicious food, and cherished family moments. Italy continues to offer endless discovery, and this trip was a testament to its multifaceted beauty.