Rome is alive with a renewed energy, with development projects enhancing its iconic piazzas, cycling paths, and the meticulous cleaning of ancient monuments. Even finding a taxi is becoming easier, a welcome change for many. As someone who loves this city, I’ve gathered a few insider tips, especially when it comes to food. Instead of just pointing you to the most famous pizza, gelato, and coffee spots that dominate online lists, I want to share some of my favorite, less obvious places that I recommend to friends and colleagues.
Culinary Delights Beyond the Usual
Unforgettable Carbonara Experience
When considering Roman cuisine, carbonara stands out as a quintessential dish. Legend suggests its origins trace back to American soldiers in Rome after World War II, requesting a meal similar to bacon and eggs. While many trattorias like Da Carlone in Trastevere and Da Danilo in Esquilino offer delicious traditional versions, for a truly special occasion, I suggest Pipero Roma. This Michelin-starred restaurant provides a sublime carbonara that’s worth the splurge. It’s part of an elegant three-course lunch, and the chef’s technique is remarkable. He crisps large pieces of pork cheek, draining the fat to achieve a non-greasy, light texture that’s still wonderfully soft inside. The passion for this dish is clear; it’s considered more than just good food, but a “wow food” experience, perfect any time of day.
Sweet Treats in the Ghetto
Rome’s historic Jewish Ghetto has seen many changes, with a surge of restaurants aiming for an “authentic” feel lining its main street. Amidst this bustling scene, the small, unassuming Pasticceria Boccione remains a true gem, operated by the same family for five generations. This bakery is a step back in time, still serving its beloved ricotta and wild cherry cake, alongside hearty squares of slightly burnt scones studded with candied fruit, nuts, and raisins. Look for the building’s façade, which incorporates ancient Roman temple stones – it’s easy to overlook the entrance. I often visit early on a cold morning to enjoy the freshly baked goods and witness the loyal stream of locals, a sure sign of quality. It’s said that even Pope Benedict XVI was a fan and would send for these treats from the Vatican.
Exploring Rome’s Offal Tradition
For the adventurous palate, Rome’s offal dishes are a must-try, stemming from a historical practice where the best cuts of meat were often reserved for the Vatican. This led locals to develop creative and delicious ways to prepare the remaining ingredients. I find myself returning to La Campana, a restaurant with over 500 years of history. Its charming setting, with white tablecloths and handwritten menus, has hosted guests like Goethe and Picasso. They offer a standout dish called “animelle,” which translates to sweetbreads, specifically from lamb throats. Don’t let the name deter you; when seared on a hotplate, these creamy, scallop-like morsels, served on a bed of rocket, are delightfully singed on the outside and tender within. A simple dressing of oil, salt, and pepper allows the unique flavor to shine.
The Simple Delight of Pizza Bianca
Pizza al taglio, or pizza by the slice, is a popular and convenient option for Romans on the go. In the mornings, many opt for the minimalist yet delicious pizza bianca. This is essentially freshly baked pizza dough, often topped with just a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt, providing a light and flavorful base. While Roscioli near Campo dei Fiori is lauded for its version, I have a personal loyalty to L’Antico Forno Di Fontana Di Trevi. This bakery, located surprisingly close to the famously crowded Trevi Fountain, offers excellent value. I recommend heading to the counter at the back for slices topped with rosemary or sesame seeds. Alternatively, at the counter near the door, they’ll delightfully stuff slices with mortadella and crumbled pistachio for a more substantial bite.
Savoring the Maritozzo
For a quintessential Roman breakfast experience, you can’t miss the maritozzo. This sweet brioche bun, generously filled with whipped cream, has a history intertwined with local traditions, perhaps once offered to pilgrims or used by suitors to present rings. My go-to spot for the best maritozzo has long been Pasticceria Regoli, a small bakery on Via dello Statuto. It also has an adjoining café where you can enjoy your maritozzo with coffee. This place has been a local favorite since 1916, conveniently located between the magnificent Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore and Colle Oppio Park, which offers splendid views of the Colosseum.
Discovering Mercato Trionfale
If you’re looking to assemble a delightful picnic, perhaps with a hollowed-out rosetta roll, consider the vibrant markets in Rome. While Testaccio market offers a glimpse into an ancient Roman warehouse below and has growing gourmet food stands, for the “real deal” and a truly immersive experience, I head to Mercato Trionfale. This market, rumored to be Italy’s largest, is located near the Vatican and is a feast for the senses. Over 280 stands overflow with seasonal vegetables, fresh mozzarella, artisan pasta, and a wide variety of olive oils. You’ll hear butchers and fishmongers enthusiastically announcing their prices to local shoppers. While some sit-down food areas are emerging at the rear, offering specialties like arrosticini skewers from Abruzzo, porchetta slices, and fresh fish, the heart of the market remains its traditional produce and artisan offerings.