Matera, Italy, feels like stepping onto another planet, or perhaps into a different epoch. The cave dwellings, known as the Sassi, are piled on top of each other, creating a dramatic landscape carved into the sandstone. It’s a place that whispers tales of millennia, standing in stark contrast to the relatively youthful Rome. Matera, located in the Basilicata region, is an ancient settlement, with evidence of human habitation dating back over 8,000 years, even tracing its origins to the Paleolithic period.
A City of Caves and Culture
It’s easy to get lost, in the best way possible, exploring the Sassi. The narrow alleys and staircases wind through a landscape that once housed entire communities. These cave dwellings, literally meaning “the stones,” are now home to charming shops, cozy cafes, restaurants, and unique hotels. The sheer antiquity of Matera is astounding—it’s considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world. This remarkable preservation earned it a UNESCO World Heritage Site designation in 1993, celebrated for being an outstanding example of troglodyte settlements in the Mediterranean.
Matera was celebrated as a European Cultural Capital in 2019, drawing thousands of visitors for a year of cultural events.
The Sassi are divided into two main areas: Sasso Caveoso to the south and Sasso Barisano to the northwest. Venturing east from the Sassi, you’ll find the Parco della Murgia Materana, a dramatic natural park bisected by a river and laced with hiking paths. The views from this area, looking back at the ancient city, are simply breathtaking, especially as the sun begins to set.
Echoes of Humble Beginnings
Visiting the Vico Solitario museum offers a glimpse into the often harsh realities of life in the Sassi’s past. The museum recreates a typical cave dwelling, illustrating how families lived in incredibly cramped conditions. Imagine a space of about 540 square feet housing 12 people, with basic necessities like a bed and an iron pot for sanitation, but no running water, electricity, or proper drainage. It’s a powerful reminder of the extreme poverty and difficult living conditions that once defined this area.
By the mid-20th century, the squalor in the Sassi had become a national embarrassment. Malaria was prevalent, and infant mortality rates were alarmingly high. In 1948, Italy’s Justice Minister famously declared the Sassi a “national shame.” The impact of this poverty was deeply felt by the region’s residents.
⚡ Quick Tips
- Wear comfortable shoes for exploring the hilly and uneven terrain.
- Embrace walking; cars are impractical in many parts of the Sassi.
- Consider visiting in the shoulder seasons (spring or fall) for pleasant weather and fewer crowds.
In 1952, the Italian government relocated residents from the Sassi to new neighborhoods on the town’s outskirts. However, many yearned to return to their ancestral homes. By 1986, a policy change allowed those willing to personally fund the restoration of their cave dwellings the opportunity to do so. Today, these efforts have transformed Matera into a sought-after tourist destination, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors annually.
Exploring the Sassi’s Wonders
For a truly unique stay, consider lodging in a restored cave dwelling. Many offer modern comforts like air conditioning and Wi-Fi housed within historical stone walls. My stay at La Dolce Vita Bed and Breakfast in Sasso Caveoso was a comfortable and memorable experience, blending ancient architecture with contemporary amenities. The thoughtful owner, Vincenzo Altieri, spoke perfect English and shared fascinating insights into the city’s history.
Navigating Matera relies heavily on walking. The town’s main street, Via del Corso, functions as a pedestrian mall, lined with shops, restaurants, and cafes. Heading north on Madonna Delle Virtù offers stunning vistas of the Sassi on one side and the ravine on the other. It’s the kind of street where you can pause for a lengthy photography session.
📍 Getting lost in the Sassi’s maze-like alleys is an essential part of the Matera experience.
You’ll find many of Matera’s 170 churches scattered throughout the Sassi. The 12th-century Matera Cathedral, located in Piazza Duomo, is the city’s centerpiece, boasting a impressive 170-foot tower that provides panoramic views of the surrounding gorge. While some churches have an admission fee, the investment is often worthwhile for the historical and artistic treasures they contain.
Ancient Churches and Art
The 8th-century Santa Lucia alle Malve church is a must-see for its beautifully preserved frescoes. The ambient lighting within, with stone pillars illuminated from below, gives the space a uniquely haunting, almost spiritual, atmosphere. The darkened walls, a testament to age, add to its mystique.
Another distinctive site is the 12th-century San Pietro Barisano. Its history includes plundering in the 1960s and 70s, leaving its altar stripped and surrounding statues headless. Beneath the church, narrow underground passageways contain peculiar 4-foot niches carved into the walls—these were used for storing bodies during wet weather, a chilling but fascinating historical detail.
For a simpler yet equally beautiful experience, visit San Giovanni Battista. Its frescoes were removed in the 1920s, and it features just one stained-glass window above the altar, contributing to its serene simplicity. Each church tells a different story of Matera’s past.
A Taste of Basilicata’s Cuisine
The southern Italian culinary tradition of “cucina povera,” or poor man’s cooking, is anything but meager in flavor. It’s rich, hearty, and deeply satisfying. A local specialty you’ll encounter is the sweet and crunchy Senise pepper, often pounded into a powder and used to flavor cheeses, meats, and soups.
Ristorante del Caveoso became a personal favorite for its authentic Basilicata dishes. The local cheese plate was exceptional, showcasing regional flavors. I particularly enjoyed the tortellini filled with pork and caciocavallo cheese, a salty, curd-like cheese that perfectly complemented the pasta. Mopping up the rich sauce with Matera’s characteristic heavy-crusted bread was an absolute delight. Pairing it with a glass of Primitivo wine enhanced the entire meal.
During a recent visit, I explored ‘900 Restaurant, which aims to offer “a taste of the 20th century” within a reconstructed Sasso dwelling. I savored their specialty, brasato di capocollo all’aglianico, a tender beef dish slow-cooked in local Aglianico wine. The flavors were deep and comforting, representative of the region’s agricultural bounty.
| Key Dining Experiences in Matera | Signature Dishes & Vibe |
|---|---|
| Ristorante del Caveoso | Authentic Basilicata cuisine, local cheese plates, tortellini, regional wines. Cozy atmosphere. |
| ‘900 Restaurant | Matera-inspired dishes with a 20th-century twist, beef in Aglianico wine, reconstructed Sasso setting. |
After dinner, a moonlit walk back to our accommodation offered a peaceful reflection of Matera’s remarkable transformation. The city, now illuminated and revitalized, continues to emerge from its past challenges, showcasing its enduring spirit.
Matera 2019 Cultural Capital Highlights
Matera’s designation as a European Cultural Capital in 2019 was more than just a title; it was a strategic initiative aimed at boosting the quality of culture and fostering citizen involvement in the city’s artistic base. This focus is designed to ensure Matera maintains its significant place on the world map for years to come.
Featured Cultural Events (Past & Recurring)
The “Renaissance as Seen From the South” exhibition showcased masterpieces from southern Italy, including works by Raphael and Caravaggio, alongside 180 pieces from various museums. Such large-scale art exhibits highlight Matera’s commitment to presenting significant cultural offerings.
The performance of Pietro Mascagni’s opera “Cavalleria Rusticana” in Sasso Caveoso was a notable event, bringing world-class opera to the ancient cave setting. Events like these aim to integrate cultural experiences directly into the unique historical fabric of the city.
“Meteradio: The Festival of Rai Radio 3” typically features live concerts, theatrical performances, dance, and discussions centered around radio. Such multi-disciplinary festivals further enrich Matera’s cultural calendar, offering diverse programming throughout the year.
The exhibition “The Poetry of Primes: From Pitagora to Algorithms” explored the connection between ancient mathematics and modern art, linking the philosopher Pythagoras to the artist M.C. Escher. This type of exhibit demonstrates Matera’s ability to bridge historical concepts with contemporary interests.
An annual Passport offers access to many cultural events, providing an affordable way for visitors to engage with Matera’s extensive cultural program.
While specific events may change year to year, the spirit of Matera as a cultural hub remains constant, continuously drawing visitors interested in art, history, and performance.
Planning Your Visit to Matera
Reaching Matera typically involves flying into Rome and then taking a bus or train. For instance, a seven-hour bus ride from Rome offers a scenic journey through Italy’s agricultural heartland, passing wheat fields, olive groves, and vineyards. While longer than the train, it’s a more budget-friendly option and allows you to appreciate the changing landscapes.
Alternatively, flying into Bari, a city closer to Matera, presents another convenient travel option. From Bari airport, you can find direct bus services that take you into Matera, making transit relatively simple.
| Travel Options to Matera | Estimated Cost & Time |
|---|---|
| Bus from Rome (Flixbus) | Starts at $20 one way; approx. 7-8 hours. |
| Train from Rome to Ferrandina, then bus | Train around $70, approx. 4 hours; bus $2.60, 35 mins. |
| Bus from Bari Airport | Approx. $3 one way; timings vary. |
Where to Stay
Matera offers a range of accommodations, from charming B&Bs to luxury cave hotels. La Dolce Vita B&B provides rooms built into caves, offering around $100 per night. Le Dimore Dell’Acqua B&B offers airy, modern rooms in an 1870s building for $85-$190 depending on the season. For a more upscale experience, the Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa provides luxurious cave rooms and a spa, with prices around $250-$260 per night.
Where to Eat
Beyond Ristorante del Caveoso and ‘900 Restaurant, Soul Kitchen offers elegant dining with outdoor seating, presenting creative takes on traditional dishes. Their saltimbocca with lemon and pistachio sauce is a delightful innovation on a classic. Main courses generally start around $11 in many local restaurants, offering good value for the quality of food.
Is Matera truly walkable?
Yes, Matera is a city best explored on foot. Its unique layout of narrow alleys and staircases connects the various parts of the Sassi. While hilly at times, the experience of walking through these ancient streets is incredibly rewarding.
What is the best time to visit Matera?
Spring (April-June) and Autumn (September-October) generally offer the most pleasant weather. You can expect fewer crowds compared to the peak summer months, allowing for a more relaxed exploration of the Sassi.
Matera is a destination that truly captures the imagination. Its ancient stone dwellings, rich history, and vibrant cultural scene create an unforgettable travel experience that continues to unfold with every visit.