Matera, nestled in the Basilicata region of southern Italy, is a city that truly surprises you. It’s not just one place, but two distinct areas that come together to create something extraordinary. Imagine arriving and seeing a landscape that feels ancient, almost carved from the earth itself, and then turning to find a bright, elegant city that feels wonderfully alive.
The Ancient Sassi District
The heart of Matera’s ancient character lies within the Sassi districts. These are the cave dwellings, some dating back to the Paleolithic era, that have been inhabited for thousands of years. Wandering through the Sassi feels like stepping back in time. The stone facades and narrow alleys create a unique atmosphere, and it’s easy to understand why this ancient troglodyte settlement is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many of the caves, though historically significant, have been deemed unsafe and are now empty, giving the area a rough beauty, especially when viewed from above.
Matera’s Sassi districts are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for their exceptional preservation of a troglodyte settlement.
Within the Sassi, you’ll find Matera Cathedral, a striking 13th-century Romanesque structure. Scattered throughout are numerous smaller churches, many of which are carved directly into the rock faces. For those interested in art and history, the Museum of Sculpture and the Museum of National Art offer deeper insights into the region’s artistic heritage. It’s a place where history isn’t just in museums; it’s built into the very landscape.
📍 Exploring the Sassi involves a lot of walking up and down uneven steps, so comfortable shoes are a must for everyone.
A City of Two Halves
What struck me most during my recent visit was the incredible contrast between the Sassi and the “new” city across the Gravina River. While the Sassi offers a glimpse into Matera’s deep past, the other side reveals a vibrant, sun-drenched Baroque city that exudes a considerable amount of charm and historical wealth. This duality is what makes Matera so fascinating. You can spend a morning immersed in ancient cave dwellings and an afternoon strolling through elegant piazzas.
| Historic Area | Modern Area |
|---|---|
| Sassi (Cave Dwellings) | Baroque City |
| UNESCO World Heritage Site | Roman Origins, 19th/20th Century Buildings |
Exploring the Vibrant Baroque City
The main street here, Via Lucana, guides you through a remarkably open and modern city, despite its Roman roots. Cars are largely restricted from the center, allowing for pleasant walks along well-maintained streets. You’ll find buildings from the 19th and 20th centuries, alongside beautiful piazzas filled with inviting boutiques and trattorias. The architectural styles of the churches vary, but for a truly significant landmark, seek out the Basilica Pontificia Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant’Eustachio, dedicated to the city’s patron saints.
At the heart of this newer city is Piazza Vittorio Veneto. It’s a lively space, notable for its central fountain, which sits atop recently uncovered Roman cisterns. The piazza is bordered by impressive historic palazzos, including the 18th-century Annunziata and the Church of San Domenico. It’s a wonderful spot to people-watch and soak in the atmosphere of Matera’s more contemporary side.
What to see in the new city
Start your exploration at Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the energetic core of the Baroque city. Admire the central fountain and the impressive historic palazzos surrounding it, such as the Annunziata.
Wander along Via Lucana, enjoying the tree-lined streets and the mix of shops and cafes. Notice the distinct architecture of the 19th and 20th-century buildings.
Unique Stays in Matera
One of the most incredible aspects of visiting Matera is the opportunity to actually stay within its ancient cave dwellings. Several boutique hotels have masterfully transformed these historical spaces into unique accommodations. We stayed at the Caveoso Hotel, located on Piazza Caveoso in the Sassi, and it was an unforgettable experience to sleep within the cool, smooth limestone walls. Other notable options include the Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita, also in a cave setting, and Il Palazotto, a more recent 10-room hotel set within a 16th-century palace that even boasts its own winery. Depending on the season, you can often find these distinctive lodgings priced between 90€ and 130€ per night.
| Accommodation Type | Example Names |
|---|---|
| Cave Hotels | Caveoso Hotel, Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita |
| Historic Palace Hotels | Il Palazotto |
Culinary Delights in Matera
Matera’s culinary scene is a delightful exploration of the region’s rich agricultural heritage. The restaurants and trattorias offer a chance to savor genuine Basilicata cuisine. In the newer part of town, you’ll find a lively array of eateries. We discovered Da_Mó on Via Bruno Bozzi, a charming restaurant where chefs Paolo and Michaela prepare fantastic regional dishes. Their four-course dinner for 39€ and six-course for 49€ offers great value. Dishes like pasta with breadcrumbs and cruschi peppers, or veal cooked in Aglianico wine, showcase traditional flavors with a refined touch. This is exactly the kind of authentic, delicious food I look for when traveling.
For a taste of truly authentic regional fare, Trattoria Paolangelo on Via Duni in the old Sassi district is a must-visit. This place was just as busy and inviting as I remembered from my last trip. The sunlight streaming under the brick arches creates a warm, welcoming atmosphere, and the prices remain incredibly reasonable. You can enjoy a satisfying two-course meal for around €15 or a three-course menu for €22, with good local wines available by the carafe. I particularly enjoyed their generous plate of ten polpette (meatballs), and the ricotta cavatelli pasta with gorgonzola and walnuts is a standout dish.
At Trattoria Paolangelo, owner-chef Raphaele Paolangelo personally prepares every dish, ensuring a consistent and high-quality taste of Basilicata.
The menu at Paolangelo is a testament to fresh, seasonal ingredients. You might find dishes like grilled pork scented with sage or a refreshing selection of salads, which are surprisingly uncommon in many Italian restaurants. For dinner one evening, we chose Ristorante Francesca on Vico Bruno Buozzi. Set across two levels, it offers an impressive wine list featuring many excellent local Basilicata and Puglian wines at fair prices. The antipasti display is particularly enticing, filled with a colorful array of fresh vegetables, local cheeses, and cured meats. Trying local specialties like orecchiette pasta with fava beans during their season is a true highlight.
Where to eat in Matera
For traditional dishes in the Sassi, try Trattoria Paolangelo on Via Duni for its hearty, homemade fare at excellent prices.
In the newer city, Da_Mó on Via Bruno Bozzi offers refined regional cuisine with set menu options.
Ristorante Francesca on Vico Bruno Buozzi is recommended for its extensive wine list and fresh antipasti selections.
The Joy of Family Travel in Matera
Visiting Matera with Michael and the kids was a wonderful experience. Even though Lily, at seven, was fascinated by the cave dwellings, asking endless questions about how people lived there, it was the simple moments that stood out. Seeing her eyes light up as she tried a scoop of gelato from a small shop in Piazza Vittorio Veneto, or Michael enjoying a leisurely coffee while watching the world go by, added such warmth to our visit. Ethan, at four, was captivated by the fountains and the sheer novelty of the ancient streets. We even found a small playground near the park, which was a welcome break for him. It’s these everyday family moments, set against such an extraordinary backdrop, that make travel so memorable. For me, discovering the two Materas—the ancient Sassi and the elegant Baroque city—was a revelation, and sharing it with my family made it even more special.
Matera offers a travel experience unlike any other. The blend of its ancient, cave-dwelling past with its sophisticated, lively present creates a destination that is both historically profound and refreshingly current. Whether you choose to stay in a cave dug into the rock or dine in a bustling piazza, Matera promises an unforgettable journey through Italy’s captivating southern region.