Our trip to Matera was an unforgettable journey into Italy’s deep past, a place where history whispers from ancient caves and echoes through charming streets. This city in the Basilicata region feels like stepping back in time, yet it’s alive with modern energy and delicious food. It’s a destination that truly surprises and delights at every turn.
Exploring Matera’s Ancient Heart
Matera is famously divided into two parts: the historical Sassi districts, which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and the newer section of the city where residents were relocated after World War II. We stayed in the newer part, which offered lovely views, but our focus was always on exploring the incredible Sassi. Waking up early allowed us to witness the quiet beauty of the city before the main crowds arrived.
The early morning air was cool and still. As we walked towards Piazzetta Pascoli, we saw sweepers cleaning the streets and the early signs of cafes preparing for the day. The scent of freshly brewed espresso filled the air, a familiar and comforting start to an Italian morning. The combination of bread and cheese is a simple yet perfect way to begin, fueling us for our explorations.
The Timeless Sassi Districts
Reaching Piazzetta Pascoli at dawn revealed why photographers and early risers flock here. The Sassi, meaning “stones,” are two districts, Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso. These are not just old buildings; they are cave dwellings that have been continuously inhabited since the Paleolithic era. It’s hard to grasp the sheer age of this place, which has grown organically over thousands of years.
Stone stairways wind their way up and down, connecting cave-like homes that seem to have been carved into the very hillsides. The architecture is a fascinating and seemingly unplanned accumulation of centuries. When the sun rises, casting hues of orange and pink against a violet sky, the Sassi look like a scene from a movie. This cinematic quality isn’t an accident; Matera has been a popular filming location for many years, adding to its magical atmosphere.
A City of Merged Identities
Walking through Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the central square, you can see how Matera has expertly blended its distinct halves. The imposing library and the Church of Saint Dominic stand as anchors in the modern part of the city. While the Sassi were once abandoned for more modern living, they have undergone a remarkable transformation in the last couple of decades.
Today, these ancient cave dwellings are buzzing with life. They are home to a wonderful array of restaurants, hotels, and bars. Wandering through the old city, you’ll constantly be tempted by the sight of gelaterias, cafes, and wine bars, each promising a taste of “la dolce vita.” It feels like every corner offers a new delightful discovery.
Culinary Delights in Historic Caves
Our walks through the historic district were a delicious adventure. On Via Casale, we found Osteria al Casale, a place that serves simple Italian meals packed with incredible flavor. Their pasta and pizzas are made with the freshest local ingredients, allowing them to truly shine. It’s the kind of honest, tasty food that makes Italian cuisine so beloved.
A must-visit for bread lovers is Casa del Pane, a bakery renowned for its pane di Matera. This local bread, made from semolina grain, has a signature crust that gives way to a lovely yellow crumb. Their focaccia is also excellent, offering a familiar comfort. For a truly unique dining experience, we tried La Talpa. Here, the ancient stone walls seem to block out the digital world, forcing you to focus on the fantastic Italian classics and local wines they serve.
The owner was incredibly helpful, offering seasonal recommendations and perfect wine pairings. We savored a dish of spaghetti in lemon sauce, generously topped with fresh truffle shavings, a simple yet decadent treat. It was a meal that stayed with us long after we left.
Art, Artisans, and Local Flavors
Matera’s recognition as a European Capital of Culture in 2019 brought a surge of cultural programming, though the pandemic did impact some plans. Still, the city’s artistic spirit is evident everywhere. Musma offers a chance to see contemporary sculptures housed within ancient caves, a striking juxtaposition of old and new.
The artisanal heritage is strong here. We visited Il Bottegaccio Daddiego, the workshop of master craftsman Mario Daddiego. He creates a beautiful range of items, from intricate terracotta bas-reliefs to decorated plates and charming nativity scenes. This dedication to craft extends beyond traditional art forms.
Craft Beer and Local Produce
The spirit of entrepreneurship is alive in Matera’s food and drink scene. We discovered AB beer, a local craft brewery based in nearby Altamura. Their refreshing blond beer was a perfect light drink. Cheesemakers are also encouraging visitors to explore beyond the usual suspects, while historic olive oil producers are celebrated with the same reverence as winemakers, highlighting the nuances of terroir and varietal.
There’s even a museum dedicated to olive oil! If you’re looking for a special bottle to take home, the Maiatica di Ferrandina extra virgin olive oil is a wonderful choice, showcasing the region’s dedication to quality produce. It’s inspiring to see how much pride goes into these local creations.
Experiencing Matera’s Scale and Serenity
Matera commands a sense of immense scale, not just in its physical presence but in its deep history, stretching back to around 7000 BC when it was first inhabited. A visit to the Parco Scultura La Palomba is a must for experiencing this scale differently. This vast sculpture park occupies six hectares of an old tufa-stone quarry.
The dramatic, vertical landscape of the quarry provides a rugged setting for a series of metal sculptures that are intentionally dwarfed by their surroundings. It’s a powerful reminder of nature’s artistry and human intervention. Evenings in Matera are best spent in quiet reflection, perhaps with a cup of hot chocolate at a cafe overlooking the Sassi, soaking in the magical atmosphere. The Quarry Lounge Terrace is a wonderful spot for this, offering a relaxed setting to enjoy a glass of wine or a comforting hot chocolate.
For those seeking something traditional and wholesome, the crapiata is a highly recommended soup made with a hearty mix of legumes and cereals. It’s a taste of the region’s simple, nourishing cuisine.
A Return to the Timeless Morning
Our second day began much like the first – with an early start to experience the Sassi in the soft morning light. Joined by other photographers and film enthusiasts, we sought out more of the traditional pane di Matera. Paired with freshly made cheese and charcuterie, it was another transcendental morning. The food in Matera truly takes center stage, offering authentic flavors that connect you directly to the region’s rich heritage.
It was a beautiful moment when Michael pointed out the perfect light on the ancient stones, and Lily was thrilled to see the little caves up close, asking if people still lived in them. Ethan, meanwhile, was more interested in trying to mimic the sounds of church bells we could hear echoing through the valley. These small family moments amidst such grand history made the trip even more special.
Planning Your Visit to Matera
Getting to Matera is straightforward, with Turkish Airlines offering many connections through Istanbul. The closest international airport to Matera is Bari. Once you arrive, you’ll find a range of accommodations to suit different preferences. If you prefer modern comfort away from the cave dwellings, La Suite Matera Hotel & Spa is an excellent choice.
For a more unique experience, consider a boutique property like Le Dimore dell’Idris. These family-run places, often within the Sassi, offer a charming and intimate stay. Be prepared for stairs and uneven ground, but the hospitality and the unique atmosphere are well worth it. Imagine sharing a glass of wine with the owners as the sun sets over the ancient city.
Immerse Yourself in Matera
Matera offers a travel experience unlike any other. It’s a destination that engages all your senses, from the stunning visuals of its ancient landscapes to the mouthwatering tastes of its local cuisine. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, or simply someone who appreciates beauty and authenticity, Matera will capture your heart. We hope to return again someday, perhaps to explore more of the surrounding Basilicata region.