I stood at the edge of the ravine just before sunset, watching the pale limestone of Matera’s Sassi catch the last light. From across the gorge, the cave city looks like a honeycomb carved into the cliff — layers of dwellings stacked so tightly that the roof of one home forms the courtyard of the one above. People have lived in these caves for over 9,000 years, making Matera one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements on earth, confirmed by the UNESCO World Heritage Centre.
Matera recorded approximately 600,000 UNESCO site visitors in recent years.
Matera is worth visiting for anyone who wants to see a city that feels genuinely ancient — not restored into something polished, but preserved with its rough edges intact. The Sassi are unlike anything else in Italy, and staying overnight inside a cave hotel changes how you experience the place entirely.
History lovers
Solo travelers
Photographers
Matera sits in Basilicata, Italy’s poorest and most overlooked region, on the edge of a limestone gorge called the Gravina. The soft calcareous rock allowed early humans to carve homes, churches, cisterns, and storage rooms with simple tools. The settlement grew vertically, creating two districts — Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso — that cascade down the canyon wall in a dense, interconnected labyrinth. ENIT has made Basilicata and Matera explicit priority destinations in its 2026 strategy, actively directing traffic away from overtouristed Rome, Venice, and Florence, confirmed by Tourism Reporter International citing ENIT President Alessandra Priante’s official announcement.
What the Sassi Actually Feel Like
Walking through the Sassi districts is disorienting in the best possible way.
You step through a tunnel carved into the rock, climb a staircase cut into the cliff, and emerge on a rooftop that turns out to be someone else’s street. The natural caves of the Murgia plateau attracted the first human inhabitants approximately 9,000 years ago, predating cities like Jerusalem and Damascus, confirmed by the UNESCO World Heritage Centre’s official Matera listing. Sasso Barisano faces west, is more developed, and now houses boutique hotels, restaurants, and shops in former family caves. Sasso Caveoso faces east, is rawer and more austere, and has kept more of its ancient character.
Standing at the Belvedere di Murgia Timone — the free panoramic viewpoint across the gorge used in No Time to Die and The Passion of the Christ — you see the full scale of the cave city at sunset. The view is accessible by car or a short guided walk, and it’s where you understand why Matera has been a filming location for so many international productions. Mel Gibson filmed significant portions of The Passion of the Christ here in 2004, confirmed by Wikipedia.
Wear hiking boots or sturdy shoes with grip. The Sassi are steep, stepped, and slippery when wet. I saw multiple people in sandals struggling — don’t be that person.
From Shame to UNESCO: Matera’s Story
The history of Matera is not comfortable, and it’s worth understanding before you go.
In 1945, Carlo Levi published Christ Stopped at Eboli, exposing the poverty of the Mezzogiorno and describing Matera’s cave life. The Prime Minister, Alcide De Gasperi, visited Matera in 1950. By 1952, the Italian government began forcibly relocating approximately 15,000 cave-dwelling residents into modern housing. The Sassi were declared a national disgrace and partially sealed, left to decay for forty years as a ghost city of empty rooms and collapsing roofs.
The turning point came in 1993, when UNESCO inscribed the Sassi di Matera and the Park of the Rupestrian Churches as a World Heritage Site. Restoration began slowly. The Sassi were recognized as containing more than 150 rock churches carved into the cliff face, many with well-preserved Byzantine frescoes, confirmed by tourismattractions.net. In 2019, Matera was named European Capital of Culture, bringing renewed attention and investment.
Some former residents and descendants feel the renaissance has happened without them. Restoration created employment but also drove up property values. Visiting Casa Grotta — experiencing cave life before it was aestheticized — is essential to understanding the shame-to-pride arc.
The Rock Churches and Crypt of Original Sin
Matera’s cave churches are among the most surprising art experiences I’ve had in Italy.
Over 150 rupestrian (rock-cut) churches exist within the Matera UNESCO property. The Cripta del Peccato Originale (Crypt of Original Sin) near Pietrapentrata contains early medieval frescoes dating to the 8th or 9th century, discovered in 1963. It’s nicknamed the “Sistine Chapel of cave art” and requires a guide to visit. The frescoes depict the Archangel Michael and the Madonna in remarkably vivid pigments that have survived over a thousand years in the cave environment.
Santa Maria de Idris is carved into a rocky outcrop above Sasso Caveoso and is accessible on foot. Santa Lucia alle Malve houses 12th-century Byzantine frescoes. The Crypt of the Original Sin is located just outside the city centre, approximately 20 minutes away by car or guided tour. A guide is required for entry, and it’s worth booking ahead.
The Underground Cistern: Palombaro Lungo
Beneath Matera lies a hidden water network that rivals anything above ground.
The Palombaro Lungo, built in 1832 beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto, is a massive underground cistern with stone pillars carved from bedrock supporting a barrel-vaulted ceiling more than 15 meters high. It held up to five million litres of rainwater collected through channels and filters built into the rock, confirmed by Wikipedia. The cistern is navigable by boat, and guided tours take you through the water system that supplied the Sassi for centuries.
The cave system was sophisticated: an ingenious water management network captured rainfall, channeled it through carved tunnels, and stored it in underground cisterns. The same principles that supplied water in 3000 BC were still functioning in the 20th century. The Palombaro Lungo tour takes about 30 minutes and costs around 5 EUR.
Sleeping in a Cave: Where to Stay in the Sassi
Staying inside the Sassi districts is the most impactful decision for your visit.
Cave hotels span a wide range. Dorm beds in cave hostels start at approximately 20 to 35 EUR per night. Boutique cave hotels run 100 to 200 EUR per night. Luxury cave hotels like Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita cost from 250 EUR per night and feature original stone walls and carved niches. The hotel pioneered the “albergo diffuso” concept, converting medieval grottoes into rooms with modern plumbing but original stone walls.
More affordable cave guesthouses line Sasso Barisano from 80 EUR per night. Budget travelers can choose hostels just outside the historic centre. The key is to book well in advance during peak season from April through October, confirmed by takeyourbackpack.com.
Booking a cave hotel on a budget site without checking the actual location. Some “cave rooms” are in the modern town above the Sassi, not in the historic cave district. Verify the address is inside Sasso Barisano or Sasso Caveoso before booking.
Getting to Matera in 2026
Matera is not on a main rail line, which keeps crowds manageable but requires planning.
Fly into Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI), approximately 65 kilometers from Matera, reachable in under an hour by car or direct shuttle bus, confirmed by visititaly.eu. Direct shuttle buses depart from Bari Airport to Matera daily. From Bari city center, FlixBus and MarinoBus offer direct bus services taking approximately 1 hour 15 minutes with tickets starting from around 9 EUR.
From Naples, direct buses take approximately 3 hours 45 minutes with tickets from around 10 to 35 USD, confirmed by Rome2Rio. From Rome, the journey is approximately 6.5 hours by bus or train with connection, making Matera a destination requiring at minimum an overnight stay. Matera is approximately 400 kilometers from Rome, 650 kilometers from Florence, and 850 kilometers from Venice. By car, the drive from Bari airport to Matera along the SS96 takes approximately one hour.
Bari Airport is the closest major international airport. Check Aeroporti di Puglia for flight options and shuttle schedules.
Pugliairbus operates a direct shuttle from Bari Airport to Matera taking about 70 minutes. Tickets cost around 5 EUR. The bus drops you at the edge of the Sassi.
The Sassi are pedestrian-only. Pack light because you’ll be carrying your luggage over stone steps and uneven paths. Leave large suitcases in Bari if possible.
Matera’s Food Scene: What to Eat
The food in Basilicata is simple, rustic, and deeply satisfying.
Pane di Matera has IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) status for its dense, chewy texture from ancient grain varieties. A loaf costs 2 to 3 EUR and pairs perfectly with local olive oil for a simple meal. Visit Panificio Perrone or Forno Antico Comunale to watch traditional baking. Peperoni cruschi (sweet dried peppers) are the regional signature — they’re crisp, slightly sweet, and appear in pasta dishes, on pizza, and as a topping for antipasti.
Trattoria Lucana and Oi Mari offer the best value for local dishes. Orecchiette with cime di rapa costs 10 to 12 EUR. Aglianico del Vulture wine is the local red, typically 3 to 5 EUR per glass. La Fedda Rossa in the Sassi serves cavatelli pasta with breadcrumbs and peppers, or orecchiette with turnip tops, paired with local wine.
- Stay inside the Sassi districts — a cave hotel in Sasso Barisano or Sasso Caveoso changes how you experience the city.
- Visit the Cripta del Peccato Originale with a guide — the 8th-century frescoes are the best preserved cave paintings in southern Italy.
- Plan for at least two nights — Matera is too far from major cities for a day trip, and the evening light on the Sassi is worth a full day of exploration.
Before You Visit Matera
How many days do I need in Matera?
Two days covers the main Sassi districts and several rock churches. Three days allows for the Cripta del Peccato Originale and guided evening walks. Matera is not a day trip destination — the journey from Rome takes 6.5 hours each way.
Is Matera overhyped or worth the trip?
Matera is genuinely worth the trip, but the overtourism concerns are real. The same caves where families suffered now charge 200 EUR per night. Visiting in shoulder season (April, May, September, October) keeps crowds manageable and prices lower.
What is the best time of year to visit?
April through June and September through October offer comfortable temperatures between 15°C and 22°C. July and August often exceed 38°C — the stone absorbs heat and radiates it at night. Winter is quiet and cold, with the cave city taking on a striking quality in low light.
Can I visit Matera on a budget?
Yes. Dorm beds in cave hostels start at 20 to 35 EUR per night. The first Sunday of every month, state museums and archaeological sites including the Matera caves are free, confirmed by Tourism Reporter International. Pane di Matera and local cheese make a cheap, authentic meal.
Is Matera disappointing for anyone?
If you expect a polished, Instagram-friendly destination, Matera might surprise you. The Sassi are rough, uneven, and steep. Some restoration work is still ongoing. The city’s history of poverty and forced displacement is visible everywhere. That authenticity is the point, but it’s not for everyone.
Why Matera Stays With You
I’ve been to dozens of Italian cities, and Matera is the only one that made me reconsider what a city can be. The Sassi are not a historical site you visit — they’re a place where people still live, eat, sleep, and argue about the same things people have argued about for 9,000 years. The tension between the shame of the past and the pride of the present is written into every stone. For a guide to other Italian destinations that reward slow, thoughtful travel, read Explore Italy’s Hidden Gems and Avoid Crowds.
Sources and further reading
UNESCO World Heritage Centre. “Sassi di Matera.” 🔗
Gitnux. “Italy Tourism Statistics 2026.” 🔗
Tourism Reporter International. “ENIT 2026 Strategy: Basilicata and Matera as Priority Destinations.” 🔗
visititaly.eu. “Getting to Matera from Bari.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Bordighera: A Pastel Gem for Art Lovers — A guide to another lesser-known Italian destination with a slower pace, perfect for travelers who want to avoid crowds.
Florence: Renaissance Treasures and Artistry — A comprehensive look at Florence’s art and food scene, useful for planning a northern Italy itinerary that contrasts with Matera’s cave-city experience.
Experience Italy’s Ultimate Christmas Magic and Festivities in 2025 — A seasonal guide that includes Matera’s candlelit presepe carvings in the caves during winter.
Bologna: Taste World-Famous Lasagna alla Bolognese — A food-focused guide to Emilia-Romagna, useful for understanding Italy’s regional food traditions alongside Basilicata’s rustic cuisine.