Italy is a land of contrasts, and while many travelers flock to its famous cities, there’s an entire region at its southern tip that’s eager to welcome visitors seeking a different kind of Italian experience. Calabria, the toe of Italy’s boot, offers dramatic landscapes, rich history, and delicious, unpretentious food, with very few crowds to contend with. It’s a refreshing escape from the overtourism found elsewhere, a place where you can truly connect with the local culture and stunning natural beauty.
Exploring Historic Santa Severina
My journey began in Santa Severina, a town perched dramatically over 300 meters above sea level, offering breathtaking views of the Sila mountain range. Unlike the bustling squares of Tuscany or Puglia, Santa Severina’s main piazza was tranquil, dotted with charming cafes beneath the imposing walls of a Norman fortress and the historic dome of a Byzantine church. You can almost feel the centuries of history whispering around you. Even on a sunny weekday in early summer, it was peacefully quiet, a stark contrast to the crowded Italian landmarks I’d visited before.
While cruise ships occasionally dock in nearby Crotone, their passengers rarely venture inland. A few adventurous souls, predominantly Americans, do make the trek to Santa Severina for a taste of authentic Calabrian cuisine. Lunch at Le Puzelle, just outside the village, was a highlight. Chef Salvatore Vona serves up hearty, traditional Calabrian dishes that are both incredibly affordable and bursting with flavor. The farfalle pasta with yellow peppers and the region’s famous red onions from Tropea were a revelation – simple ingredients elevated to perfection.
It’s hard to believe that according to 2022 figures, only 57 UK tourists arrived in Crotone, with one choosing to stay in this beautiful corner of Italy. This lack of mass tourism contributes to the town’s genuine charm. I found myself with writer Niall Allsopp, an insightful resident and author of “Calabria: Travels in the Toe of Italy,” who offered a unique perspective on the region. He’s dedicated to dispelling the outdated stereotypes that label Calabria as the “arsehole of Italy,” a place of unsophistication and danger.
Understanding Calabria’s Past
Allsopp explained that the economic disparities after Italy’s unification in 1861 significantly impacted the south. Regions that had a rich history of being colonized, like Calabria, didn’t benefit from the industrial boom in the north in the same way. The wealth generated in the south was heavily transferred northward, leading to considerable resentment and contributing to historical phenomena like brigandage. It was during this period that organized crime syndicates, including the mafia, gained a foothold.
While Calabria is indeed the historical home of the ‘Ndrangheta, it’s important to note that not all of its towns bear this association. Santa Severina proudly displays a sign that translates to: “Here the ’Ndrangheta does not enter. Calabrian municipalities repudiate the mafia in all its forms.” This sentiment showcases the town’s strong stance against organized crime. Allsopp believes you can often identify towns free from such influence by their lack of superficiality and their welcoming atmosphere; the drab, unwelcoming places are often the ones with deeper issues.
Discovering Tropea’s Coastal Beauty
A couple of hours west along the Tyrrhenian Sea lies Tropea, a town that stands out as Calabria’s undisputed success story. Looking out towards Sicily and the Aeolian Islands, Tropea offers a different, yet equally captivating, Calabrian experience. The drive from the north is dramatic, with sheer cliffs and hidden coves leading you along a winding coastal road before you ascend to the historic old town center.
From the cliffs above, you’re rewarded with an absolutely stunning panorama of pale sand meeting crystal-clear emerald waters – arguably one of the most perfect town beaches you’ll ever see. Tropea itself is a classic southern Italian town, characterized by its elegant architecture, lively piazzas, and cool, shaded side streets. It’s a town that is decidedly busy and cheerful, but thankfully, it lacks the overt commercialism or flashy tourist traps found in places like Sorrento or Portofino. It feels authentically Italian.
For those seeking sun and sand without the exorbitant prices, accommodations are readily available slightly outside the town center. Hotels offering similar amenities to those found on the Amalfi Coast are a fraction of the cost. Baia del Sol, for instance, provides comfortable family-friendly options, while the luxurious Capovaticano Spa Thalassotherapy caters to couples seeking a more indulgent escape. During my stay, I noticed a distinct lack of English spoken, with clusters of German, French, and Danish visitors enjoying the region’s charms – a testament to its less-trodden path.
Epic Sunsets at Capo Vaticano
Just a short distance down the coast, Capo Vaticano offers sunset views that are nothing short of epic. As the sun begins to dip below the horizon, the view is dominated by the volcanic island of Stromboli, its silhouette often wreathed in smoke and clouds. To the south, the iconic peak of Mount Etna in Sicily stands as a majestic backdrop. The lush vegetation and the somewhat rugged infrastructure of the coastline here evoke a feeling of the less developed, more natural beauty of some Caribbean islands.
What are the best sunset spots in Calabria?
Capo Vaticano is renowned for its spectacular sunset vistas, particularly those looking towards the volcanic island of Stromboli. The dramatic coastline and the expansive sea views make it a prime location for evening photography.
You can also find beautiful sunset opportunities along the coast near Tropea, offering views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the distant islands. The elevated position of many restaurants and hotels in Tropea provides excellent vantage points.
Reggio Calabria’s Artistic Treasures
Venturing further south, about a 90-minute drive along sometimes challenging roads, brings you to the city of Reggio Calabria. Its National Archaeological Museum houses one of the region’s most significant treasures: the celebrated Riace Bronzes. These magnificent ancient Greek sculptures, dating back to approximately 450 BC, are currently undergoing intensive study by archaeologists, and visitors can observe their progress through glass panes. It’s a fascinating glimpse into ongoing historical research.
Even with the current research, the museum is undoubtedly worth a visit. Equally impressive is the city’s beautifully restored seafront, a project initiated in the 1990s by Mayor Italo Falcomatà. This revitalization, known as the “Reggio spring,” transformed the city center and stands as a testament to its resilience and defiance against the influence of organized crime. Walking along the palm-lined promenade, you can appreciate the city’s resurgence and its embrace of a brighter future.
Experiencing Local Life and Flavors
For a truly authentic and unique experience, I ventured inland for two hours via the imperfect A3 motorway to the mountainous Pollino National Park and discovered the Locanda del Parco agriturismo. This place is far from your average farm stay. The owner, Gaetano, has a penchant for the unexpected; a dusty London taxi, its boot now a charming flower bed, sits near the chicken coop – a quirky memento of a cab ride he took in England.
The agriturismo itself is a delightful, relaxed, and wonderfully eccentric establishment. Adorned with rustic wooden signs and antique tools, it’s run with immense warmth by co-owner Adriana. She immediately welcomed us and whisked us off to pick fresh courgettes for our lunch. The guest rooms are intentionally un-modernized, filled with a charming clutter of old family photos, mismatched furniture, and personal mementos, offering a genuine sense of home.
For those seeking a touch more comfort, a spacious suite with a sitting room and a terrace overlooking the swimming pool is available, starting at a reasonable €160 per night. Rooms in the farmhouse or in a cozy cottage set amongst olive groves and vegetable patches are priced from €106. Every meal served at the Locanda del Parco is prepared using ingredients sourced directly from the property, reinforcing the farm-to-table ethos. The owners also offer fantastic cookery classes, which I highly recommend as a reason to visit.
What is the signature dish of Calabria?
The spreadable salami known as ‘nduja is the signature taste of Calabria. It’s a spicy, intensely flavorful condiment that appears in many local dishes.
Another key ingredient is the revered red onion from Tropea, celebrated for its sweetness and used extensively in salads, sauces, and as a topping.
Culinary Adventures and Hilltop Towns
My cooking class was held in a small room off the main kitchen, centered around a large table adorned with bunches of dried chilies hanging from the ceiling. A flipchart outlined our culinary journey for the day. We started with polenta tipica, a hearty dish enriched with sweet peppers and seasonal vegetables. Next, we prepared courgette flowers, lightly fried and stuffed with creamy ricotta – a cheese that Calabrians clearly adore. Finally, we learned to make “pipazzo,” a sun-dried tomato paste that’s a ubiquitous condiment in Calabria, used on everything from pasta to pizza.
The capstone of our cooking session was making pasta, which we then slathered with spicy ‘nduja. This spreadable salami is the quintessential flavor of Calabria – a little exotic, undeniably bold, and quite like the region itself. It’s an experience that truly immerses you in the local gastronomic traditions.
Nearby, the hilltop town of Morano Calabro, crowned with a Norman castle, offers a dramatically picturesque vista that would surely charm any visitor. It’s a reminder of the region’s deep historical roots; the Normans established their presence in Calabria decades before the Battle of Hastings. Reflecting on the sheer beauty and historical depth, I couldn’t help but think that 11th-century Calabria might have been a more appealing posting than 11th-century North Wales.
As my visit concluded, I left with the strong impression that Calabria is as much a country as it is a region of Italy. It’s a place that demands more than just one trip to truly appreciate its multifaceted charm. Thankfully, for now, there’s no need to worry about overtourism here; it remains a delightful escape waiting to be discovered.
Calabria offers a refreshing and authentic Italian experience, far from the crowds. From its historic hilltop towns to its stunning coastline and delicious food, it’s a region that truly captures the heart. You might find yourself inspired to explore its depths, perhaps even planning a return visit to uncover more of its secrets. For families, the genuine warmth and slower pace can create lasting memories, as my own children, Lily and Ethan, enjoyed discovering the unique tastes and sights that made this trip so special.