I stood on the arena floor of the Colosseum, looking up at the tiers where 50,000 spectators once roared, and I felt the weight of history in a way I hadn’t expected. The Colosseum, inaugurated in 80 AD, held a capacity of 50,000 spectators, and in September, average temperatures range from 17°C to 27°C — perfect for exploring with kids. This guide is for families planning a September 2026 trip to Rome, covering what to see, how to avoid the worst crowds, and where to find the moments that actually feel special.
The Colosseum, inaugurated in 80 AD with a capacity of 50,000 spectators, can be visited in September when average temperatures range from 17°C to 27°C.
Yes, September is one of the best months to bring your family to Rome. The weather is warm but not scorching, the crowds are thinner than July and August, and you can actually enjoy the outdoor sites without melting. But you still need a plan — especially for the Colosseum underground and the Vatican.
Families with kids 4–12
First-time visitors
History-loving parents
Skip-the-line tickets for the Colosseum cost €18 and include entry to the Roman Forum, located just 500 meters away. That single ticket covers your morning. But if you want to go deeper — literally — you need the underground tour.
Underground Rome
Colosseum Underground: What It’s Like and How to Book
The underground level of the Colosseum opened to limited public access a few years ago, and it changes everything about how you see the amphitheater.
We booked a private guide months ahead of time, and it was worth every euro. The underground corridors are where gladiators and animals waited before being lifted to the arena floor with elaborate elevators. Our guide showed us the animal storage areas that once held lions, tigers, and even elephants. There are still two flood corridors intact, used for the naval battles that the Romans staged by flooding the arena.
One detail that stuck with me: gladiators were rarely killed because they represented a significant investment for their owners. Successful ones were treated like celebrities. The oil scraped from their skin after a massage was collected and used as an aphrodisiac. Lily, my seven-year-old, found that both gross and fascinating — which is basically the perfect reaction for a kid in Rome.
Book your Colosseum underground tour at least two months ahead for September. The tours sell out quickly, and walk-up tickets for the underground level are almost never available. Use the official Coop Culture site or a reputable third-party tour operator.
Ancient Engineering
The Aqua Virgo and the Trevi Fountain’s Secret Underground
The Trevi Fountain is one of the most famous fountains in the world, but most people don’t know it’s still fed by an ancient Roman aqueduct.
The Aqua Virgo aqueduct was built in 19 BC and originally supplied the Trevi fountain. The modern fountain uses the reconstructed Acqua Vergine, which still relies on some of the original Roman channels. Unlike ancient times, the water is now supplemented and recycled using pumps. But underneath the Trevi fountain, the original distribution tank still functions as an overflow mechanism.
You can see this for yourself at the Vicus Caprarius, an underground excavation beneath a hotel and bar near the Trevi fountain. The site also includes the back of a Roman senator’s house, which had the luxury of flowing water even in ancient times. Another part of the aqueduct system was discovered during excavations to expand the Rinascente Via del Tritone shopping mall. They incorporated the archaeological site into the basement, complete with a video reconstruction.
The Vicus Caprarius requires a small entrance fee and has limited capacity. Book ahead if you can. The Rinascente mall’s archaeological basement is free to visit during mall hours — just take the escalator down to the lower level.
Vatican City
St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Grottoes
The Vatican Grottoes are one of the most overlooked parts of St. Peter’s Basilica, and they’re free to enter.
The Grottoes are located directly under the main altar of St. Peter’s Basilica. They contain the crypts of many popes, along with relics and memorabilia of saints. The tomb of St. Peter is visible through a glass partition, but direct access requires special permission. The most recent interment was Pope Emeritus Benedict XVI in 2023. His successor, Pope Francis, requested to be buried at the Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica upon his death in 2025.
We nearly missed the Grottoes entirely. They’re accessible through a side entrance near one of the altars on the left side of the Basilica. I only noticed because I saw people exiting from stairs beneath the ground on the opposite altar. Ethan, my four-year-old, was more interested in the mosaic of St. Pedro Calungsod than the papal tombs, but that’s fine — he’s four.
The Vatican Grottoes are free, but they can get crowded in the middle of the day. Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon. No photography is allowed in certain sections. Also, the Grottoes are not stroller-friendly — there are stairs and narrow passages.
Beyond the Big Three
Borghese Museum, Appian Way, and Catacombs
If you’ve already seen the Colosseum, Forum, and Vatican, these are the spots that make a second trip to Rome feel completely different.
The Borghese Museum is one of the best museums in Rome for families. It’s small, which means you won’t exhaust your kids. Only 360 people are allowed at a time, so you need to book ahead. The collection includes paintings by Caravaggio, Raphael, and Bellini, plus Bernini sculptures that are so lifelike they almost breathe. The museum is housed in the former palace of the powerful Borghese family, including Pope Paul V and Cardinal Scipione Borghese.
The Appian Way offers a completely different side of Rome. You can take a city bus out to walk on the original flagstones of the ancient road that led from Rome to the Adriatic Sea. You can also rent bikes near the bus stop to cover more ground. Right by the bus stop is the Catacombs of St. Sebastian, one of the oldest Christian cemeteries along the Appian Way. Originally a quarry, early Christians carved out a network of more than 7 miles of tunnels on three levels to bury their dead. The guided tour lasts about 30 minutes, and no photos are permitted.
For the Appian Way, take bus 118 from the Colosseum area to the Catacombs of St. Sebastian stop. Rent a bike from the shop near the bus stop — it’s the easiest way to cover the 2–3 mile stretch of original road. Bring water and snacks; there aren’t many places to buy food along the way.
Food & Wine
Where to Eat: Renato e Luisa and Il Goccetto
A local Rome-based travel blogger recommended two spots that became the highlights of our trip.
Il Goccetto is a wine bar near Campo de’ Fiori at Via dei Bianchi Vecchi 14. It’s the kind of place where locals go after work. The wine list is all Italian, and the staff will help you pick based on what you’re eating. It’s not a full restaurant — think cured meats, cheeses, and small plates. Lily and Ethan shared a plate of prosciutto and mozzarella while Michael and I tried a few different reds.
Renato e Luisa is about a 10-minute walk from Il Goccetto. Our local contact called it his favorite restaurant in Rome, and I can see why. The pasta is handmade, the sauces are simple and perfect, and the atmosphere is relaxed enough that you don’t feel bad when your kid drops a breadstick on the floor. We went twice during our week in Rome.
Getting Around Rome in September: Walking, Taxis, and Public Transport
Rome is a walking city, but with kids, you need a backup plan.
The easiest way to explore Rome is on foot. Most of the major attractions are within a 20–30 minute walk of each other. But after a full day of sightseeing, your kids will be tired. Taxis are plentiful and can take you point to point. From the airport to the central historic district, expect to pay around $70 one way. Bus passes cost about $10 for a 24-hour pass, which also works on the subway.
We used Google Maps for public transport, but it wasn’t always accurate. The bus schedules can be unpredictable, especially on weekends. If you’re relying on public transport, give yourself extra time. The subway is simpler but doesn’t reach all the major sites.
| Transport Option | Cost | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Walking | Free | Short distances, central area |
| Taxi | $10–$70 per ride | Point-to-point, tired kids |
| 24-hour bus pass | ~$10 | Multiple stops, budget-friendly |
| Subway | ~$1.50 per ride | Longer distances, limited coverage |
Taxi drivers in Rome sometimes refuse short rides or try to charge a flat rate instead of using the meter. Always confirm that the meter is running before you get in. For airport transfers, pre-book a car service to avoid surprises.
Before You Go to Rome with Kids
Is September actually less crowded than summer?
Yes, but only slightly. September is still a busy month in Rome. The crowds thin out after the first week, when most European schools are back in session. The weather is much more comfortable than July and August, which makes the crowds feel more manageable.
What’s the biggest disappointment for families in Rome?
The Trevi Fountain is almost always packed, even in September. Go at 7:00 AM or after 10:00 PM to have a chance at a semi-quiet moment. Also, the Vatican Museums can feel overwhelming for young kids — the Sistine Chapel is crowded and hot, and there’s no seating.
Can I bring a stroller to the Colosseum?
Yes, but not to the underground level. The underground tour involves stairs and uneven surfaces. You can leave your stroller at the entrance or use a baby carrier for that part of the visit. The main Colosseum levels are stroller-friendly.
What should I pack for a September trip to Rome?
Light layers. Mornings and evenings can be cool (around 17°C), but afternoons reach 27°C. Comfortable walking shoes are non-negotiable. A reusable water bottle is essential — Rome has public water fountains (nasoni) all over the city with free, drinkable water.
Is the Colosseum underground tour worth the extra cost?
If your kids are old enough to appreciate it (around 7+), yes. The underground level is where the real history happened. For younger kids, the main Colosseum and the gladiator exhibits are enough. The underground tour adds about an hour to your visit.
Why Rome in September Feels Different
I’ve been to Rome in July, and I swore I’d never do it again. The heat, the crowds, the constant feeling of being herded. September is different. The light is softer, the air is cooler, and the city feels like it belongs to the people who live there — not just the tourists. We spent our last afternoon at the Capuchin Crypt, where the bones of some 3,000 monks are arranged in artful patterns. Lily asked if the monks were sleeping. I told her they were resting. She seemed satisfied with that answer.
For more on how to structure a longer trip that includes Rome, read our guide on ending your Italy trip in Rome after visiting Venice and Montepulciano.
Sources and further reading
Nick Turner. “Visiting Rome in September: Weather, Events & Must‑See Tips.” VisitRome.com, 2026. 🔗
John Henderson. “There’s plenty to see in Rome outside of the most popular attractions.” Anchorage Daily News, 2026. 🔗
“Discovering the many secrets of Rome.” Manila Bulletin, 2026. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Rome’s Best Eats Near Ancient Wonders — Where to grab a meal within walking distance of the Colosseum, Forum, and Pantheon, with kid-friendly options.
Rome vs. Paris: Where to Find Christmas Magic — A comparison of the two cities for a winter family trip, including crowd levels, weather, and festive activities.
Rome’s Best Bars for a Post-Sightseeing Drink — A roundup of wine bars and cocktail spots that welcome families during early evening hours.
Naples, Italy: A Guide to Timeless Discoveries — If you’re extending your trip south, this guide covers the best of Naples for families.