If you’re looking for an authentic taste of Rome, diving into its street food scene is an absolute must. Imagine wandering through historic neighborhoods, guided by someone who knows all the local secrets, and tasting incredible dishes you might otherwise miss. We recently experienced just that on a fantastic street food tour that took us through Rome’s Jewish Ghetto and historic center, uncovering some truly delicious bites.
Exploring the Jewish Ghetto
Our journey began at the Portico D’ottavia, a structure with nearly 2,000 years of history that once served as Rome’s fish market. This area is rich with stories of community, governance, and a long and sometimes difficult past for Rome’s Jewish population.
The Jewish Ghetto itself is a living neighborhood, and you can still feel the echoes of its once large and active Jewish community. This history is deeply intertwined with the food that has become central to Roman street food traditions. It’s a place where you can see the brass ‘stumbling stones’ embedded in the sidewalks, a poignant reminder of those deported during the Holocaust.
We learned about how Jews were segregated in the Ghetto starting in 1555 and how certain professions, like selling fried foods, became essential for survival and gave rise to many of the dishes we enjoy today. Even on a Friday evening, the Sabbath, when some businesses were closed, the aroma of food and the promise of delicious tastings filled the air. We were on the lookout for carciofi alla giudia, fried artichokes that are a true Roman specialty originating right here.
A Delicious Beginning Carciofi alla Giudia
Our first tasting was at Bona Pizza Romana In Teglia, a place near the Portico D’ottavia that’s known for its Roman-style pizza by the slice but also makes an exceptional version of carciofi alla giudia. These aren’t just any fried artichokes; they are double-fried until the leaves are golden and crispy, and the heart is tender and flavorful. This treat is an absolute must-try when you’re in Rome, especially if you can visit between February and April when they are in peak season.
Seeing Lily’s eyes light up as she took her first bite of the crispy artichoke was a highlight. She’s usually a bit hesitant with new vegetables, but the magic of being in Rome and the delicious preparation won her over instantly. It’s moments like these that make travel so rewarding.
Salt Cod a Roman Staple
Next, we moved on to a spot famous for another Roman street food classic: filetto di baccalà, or fried salt cod fillets. The place itself, Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara, is unpretentious, located just steps from the Santa Barbara church. It’s a quintessential Roman eatery where they focus on doing one thing and doing it exceptionally well.
The staff here are masters at preparing salt cod. They wash the fillets for about 18 hours to get them just right before frying them to a perfect crisp. Served simply, wrapped in paper, and often enjoyed with a crisp white wine, it’s a surprisingly delightful and satisfying snack that speaks to the resourcefulness and culinary skill found in Roman street food.
Michael was really impressed by the simplicity and flavor of the salt cod. He’d heard about it but hadn’t expected it to be so utterly delicious and satisfying. It’s the kind of food that makes you pause and appreciate the quality of ingredients and preparation.
Breads and Beers of the City
Iconic Roman Breads
Our tour continued to Forno Campo de’ Fiori, a well-known bakery situated on the edge of the Campo de’ Fiori market. This bakery is legendary for its pizza bianca and pizza rossa – two fundamental Roman breads that are a delight to experience.
The pizza bianca is a simple, focaccia-like bread, often flavored with just olive oil, making it perfect for stuffing with other ingredients. On the other hand, the pizza rossa is topped with a simple, fresh tomato sauce. Both are favorites among locals and visitors alike, offering a taste of Rome’s daily bread culture. We enjoyed them both, simple and perfectly baked, right there from the bakery.
Discovering Local Craft Beers
Taking a break from our walking, we stopped at Johnny’s Off License, a local bottle shop. This was a great chance to explore Italy’s growing craft beer scene. We expected to find a good selection, but we were surprised by the sheer variety of Italian craft beers and other European brews available on their shelves.
It was a perfect moment to pause, discuss the beer we were trying – a pilsner from Friuli and a saison from Rome – and just enjoy the laid-back atmosphere. These kinds of stops, where you can interact with local businesses and their products, add so much depth to any travel experience. Even the kids found something fun to sip on – sparkling apple juice for them while we enjoyed the local brews.
Sweet and Savory Bites
Supplì and Sweet Treats
Our quest for supplì, Rome’s version of a fried rice ball with mozzarella and tomato sauce, was met with great success at Fiore. This stop provided us with some of the best supplì we’ve ever tasted. They are similar to Sicilian arancini but with that fantastic gooey mozzarella center.
The family that runs Fiore hails from Naples, a city renowned for its fried snacks, which explains the high quality. Alongside the savory supplì, we also tried a graffe, a sugar-coated donut reminiscent of Austrian krapfen. It was a delightful sweet treat, perfectly fried and dusted with sugar – a wonderful contrast to the savory dishes we had earlier.
Seeing Ethan happily munching on his sugar-dusted graffe was a moment of pure joy. He loved the sweet, airy texture, and it was a nice way for him to participate in the street food adventure.
The Deliciousness of Porchetta
As we continued, we arrived at Porchetteria La Rinascita, a spot dedicated to porchetta. Porchetta is a slow-roasted, herb-infused pork that is a specialty far beyond just Rome. Here, it’s served as street food, typically in delicious sandwiches.
The porchetta is made by roasting a whole pig with a special mix of herbs and spices. Porchetteria La Rinascita sources its pigs from Ariccia, nearby, and roasts them with rosemary, salt, and black pepper. We savored a classic porchetta sandwich, filled with succulent meat and crispy bits. It was incredibly moist and flavorful, needing no extra condiments to shine. It’s a substantial and deeply satisfying bite.
A Sweet Conclusion
The Perfect Gelato Finish
No food tour in Rome would be complete without gelato, and our tour concluded perfectly at Gelateria del Teatro. This is a place we’ve returned to before, and for good reason. It’s one of our favorite spots for artisanal gelato.
The gelato here is made with high-quality ingredients and creative flavors. For me, finding the lavender and white peach flavor was a delightful return to a favorite. Michael enjoyed his choices of orange sacher torte and cheese with cherry. It was a wonderful, sweet ending to our culinary exploration, with cones that held up beautifully as we finished our tour.
Tour Logistics and Planning
Tour Details
The Devour Tours Jewish Ghetto and Historic Center Food Tour is designed to give you an authentic experience. Our tour began at 10:30 AM and lasted for three and a half hours, ending in the early evening. Arriving about 15 minutes before the start time at the meeting point in front of the Portico D’ottavia allowed us to find our guide without any rush.
The tour had a maximum of twelve participants, and we were fortunate to be part of a smaller group of just four, which made for a more intimate and engaging experience. We walked at a moderate pace and most of the stops involved standing while we enjoyed our food. It’s a tour that can be adapted for various dietary needs, including vegetarian and vegan options, provided you communicate these requirements when booking.
Food and Value
The tour includes seven distinct food tastings, which in our experience, was the perfect amount. We were comfortably full but not overly stuffed, making it a truly satisfying culinary journey. The cost of the tour was 59€ for adults and 49€ for children aged five to twelve at the time of our visit, though prices can change.
It’s worth noting that food establishments can sometimes change, so while this itinerary was wonderful for us in 2026, your actual tour might feature slightly different stops. This is part of the adventure of exploring local food scenes.
This street food tour offers an incredible way to connect with Rome’s history and its people through its most delicious offerings. You get to eat amazing food and learn from passionate locals, making it a highly recommended experience for any visitor.